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I got my vaccine not only for myself but for my Z friends and everyone else I come into contact with. I want to be part of the solution, not part of the problem. I want to visit with my Z buddies. I want to go to a Zcon and sit with a whole bunch of Jims and not take the risk of giving any of them a potentially deadly illness. And there's a way to make sure I don't. Get my vaccine. I'm all for personal choice as long as it doesn't endanger other people. In other words, if the only person who is put at risk by your personal choice is YOU... Then go for it. But if your choice puts other people at risk that's not cool. You're removing their right to make their own choice by making it for them. "If you're afraid of getting covid, you have a choice... You can choose to stay home." "If you're afraid of getting vaccinated, you have a choice... You can choose to stay home." Here's the difference: If I don't have covid and I go out, I'm not putting anyone else at risk. If I don't have the vaccine and I go out, I AM putting other people at risk.

I got my 1st Pfizer shot yesterday, the arm is a little sore today but otherwise it's all good.

And lastly, two final thoughts on the whole matter... 1) Do not confuse wearing an AFDB on your head with wearing a colander on your head. Two completely different purposes. One holy, and one unholy (literally). 2) Neither the colander nor an AFDB will do anything to protect against covid, so GO GET YOUR VACCINE!!! Even if you don't think you need it for yourself, do it for all the other people you come into contact with. We're all in this together and if you don't get vaccinated, you're potentially the Petri dish for the virus to mutate. If you want to get back to normal, get your vaccine!!

https://www.brooklynvegan.com/devos-mark-mothersbaugh-on-harrowing-covid-19-battle-time-meant-nothing/

Red calipers and low profile tires. Do they really work on any car? I wonder what the new owner will do when he gets this. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1960-chevrolet-corvette-32/

I think the classic styles should be considered. 3

I did indeed use the original everything. In the end I went over FSM torque with some thread-lock + a fine paint brush of yellow acrylic paint to mark the final position of the nuts / bolts. That way, I could identify if anything had moved and so far, with some serious hooligan antics, so good. I also ditched the stock nuts at the diff end of the half shafts and went for serrated flange nuts - which again haven't moved, yet!! 😉 On diff arrester, I made my own in the end as the RT mount was way too expensive (£120) by the time you did the crappy GBP: USD exchange / postage and import duties. Total cost on mine ended up about £20 I think. https://zclub.net/community/index.php?threads/the-“ak”-mount.27293/ The thread needs updating as the final version was much wider and I gave up trying to use the strap brackets. there is a 1mm gap under the red bush and a 3mm rubber washer between it and the mount to reduce vibrations.

.... and if you know anything about 5G technology, it’s a mesh network that needs lots of nodes to work effectively! So you’re doing your bit! Jokes aside, very well said Captain!! I am all for personal choice and people deciding what is best for them, but on C19 there is simply just one choice, where to go to get your vaccine. Any choice to not do it is a purely selfish / anti-social one IMHO. The truth is, this virus doesn’t care for your wealth, politics, race, social status or sexual preference. Being in Financial Services, I have way too many wealthy conservative American friends who think it’s a political thing and so what if a few people die for the sake of the economy. Honestly, I am truly aghast when I see highly educated intelligent people speak in these terms. We need to count ourselves lucky we even have the option to have a vaccine - imagine living in India where there simply aren’t enough vaccines!? Or in Iran where there are vaccines but only 1 million out of 80million have access to it.

I have a 73' 240z with triple Mikuni 44phh carbs. The previous owner had the wrong jetting set-up on these carbs, they would spit and lose power from idle in 1st gear and sometime in the other gears also. I found a person to help me with the correct set-up here at classiczcar forum. His name is Dave Premo, dave@tuning4performance.com. I contacted Dave by email for help, he responded to me. He suggested that we should talk by phone. After couple of phone conversations, Dave recommended the parts for my Mikuni 44phh to help correct my issues. Dave is very knowledgeable with Mikuni carbs and is a distributor for Mikuni parts. I purchased the parts from Dave and installed in my Mikuni carbs. My 240z is running excellent. I highly recommend Dave if you have any problems setting up your Mikuni. You will not be disappointed.

Andy thought Opie was losing his mind control. One of my favorite episodes.

I had not... but anything is possible! I would like a hat with the same logo in black and chrome with the silver thread... The rising sun image I used is the one from my hood design (which I paid copyright to use) I do not have permission to use it for other advertising, so that's why I would like to do a line art version of my own in black and chrome...

In case anyone has been wondering if I dropped off the face of the earth, I have not! With COVID restrictions on car meets and stuff, I haven't had the car out of the garage yet. I am still finishing up some small areas of the car, like the rear spoiler, which should be finished this weekend. I installed new side window glass for driver and passenger (Thanks @zKars!). Mine had some moderate scratches so I took advantage of the like new used parts from Jim. I also have been working on getting the doors to close properly without slamming, but have been having very little luck. I am hoping it is just the seals that need to compress and form properly, as this is not a good feeling having to slam a door three times to close it! I also pulled the power window motors out of the doors, as I cannot get them to fully go up or down without issue. I am sure it is an issue with the strength of the motor (no they are not SPAL brand but a knockoff). So in the meantime I will revert back to manual windows. I will order a newer set of window motors from Blaupunkt which seem sturdier. Otherwise, I will get the car onto the hoist and inspect all the bolt torques, readjust the coil overs for even ride height, tighten up the fittings and lines (I have small coolant leak somewhere and a small brake line leak) and make sure its safe for its first trip down the road! Insurance and registration are complete. Here's a fun fact: a 45 year old car that was last registered 13 years ago (same province) does not require a safety inspection in Alberta! Insurance and registration took minutes without any hassles. Love this province! But then again, I am scared of all the unscrupulous car owners out there that don't look after their cars! PS: What do you think of my idea for a hood logo? I was thinking of making it in black and chrome: Thicker chrome ring, white lines are black, red lines and sun are chrome with a slightly raised chrome Z on top!

Well as I said, I'm not sure how much difference a quarter turn would make, but just wanted to mention it. As for calibration... Here's a pic of some testing I ran some time ago. Ballpark should operate something like this:

Thats GOOD, I like to learn it correct! The bloody english language haha.. in the '90's i had some english neighbors ( ALSO neighbours! ... tsss... what is it then? "o" or with "ou" both are correct... mmppffff...) and i often spend some time with them, i leant a lot of english and they where (or were??) very bad in Dutch.. Yeah the older they are the more difficult it gets .. Nice arrester you made there! I have to make one one day.. i hope i get to it one day but there are 2 other cars that need to be serviced and waxed first pfff...

Excellent! Well done you - now you are flying with instruments! 18.9 is obscenely lean! Ideally I would aim closer to 14.7 for idle if possible as a 16 idle is a hot one. It explains why lifting the carb piston would make it stall as there would be too much air for the fuel going in. Rule of thumb: 12-13 for power at WOT (racers like it as low as 11.5 for cooling effects) 14-15 idle 15-17 cruise 17+ on the overrun (foot off the throttle going downhill at speed, with lovely popcorn making noises in your exhaust system!) Obviously every engine set up will be slightly different around these numbers but they will all be within the quoted ranges. Here’s a table to help — Your other limiting factor is that unlike EFi, your carbs will always have a compromise somewhere. For example, on mine I have a richer idle than I like (mid 13s) but it’s perfect for cruise / wot. That is, until I get my own design custom needles CNC-ed of course! I have a needle profile that I came up with to match my engine’s characteristics - based on HOURS of experimentation and AFR data analysis. I’m telling’ ya’ brah, swear to gwad, you just ruined your life hooking one of those up!!!!!!

Well that could explain a lot..... Haha!!

More info. Played around with the gauge. The 'stud' that the points close again is actually threaded. I turned it in about a quarter turn to insure good contact with the other end. Putting a current to the yellow/red wire and checking the voltage at the yellow wire gives a nice variable voltage reading. I ordered some higher wattage bulbs for the dash and will wait for those to come in before hooking everything back up. Great learning experience - thanks to you guys. If anything else comes up, I'll let you know. John

Probably have to make your own. People have used hockey pucks or leather, I believe. Here's a thread with a dimension.

If the Captain doesn't have shavings to share, try some Christmas tree tinsel.

I think we can all agree that aluminum is superior BUT only the cool kids have billet aluminum beanies, foil beanies are for amateurs and DIYers.

Site... So what's the verdict? Are you out there?