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If the Captain doesn't have shavings to share, try some Christmas tree tinsel.

When selecting the correct aluminum, or aluminium, foil, be sure to select the proper sheet thickness - standard duty or heavy duty. Do not skimp on quality, stick with a known brand. Refer to this guide. https://www.webstaurantstore.com/guide/551/types-and-sizes-of-food-service-foil.html

Hmmm... That's an interesting point. I've never carved one completely out of a chunk of solid aluminum. I wonder if that works any better. I'm thinking that the foil is pressed during production thereby compressing the anti-mind control properties closer together, but the billet is hot forged which allows the molecules to form a more regular crystalline structure which may help as well? Maybe we should test them both at a Zcon sometime. I wear one style and @siteunseen can wear the other. Whichever of us acts more out-of-control is obviously the subject of less mind control (duh).

Looks like Ginger (Tina Louise). I preferred Mary Ann (Dawn Wells, RIP)

I'll take a wig of shavings @Captain Obvious, I know you have some.

Yes, the regulator switch is similar to a set of points. It doesn't open and close as quickly, and it doesn't handle nearly as much current, but yeah... It's opened and closed an untold number of times over the past 50 years! So that pic I posted is from the front of a 280 gauge with the faceplate removed. On the 280, the faceplate for the fuel/volt is split down the middle and you can take either half off. Two screws and half the faceplate comes out. Here's a pic of the gauge with the plate intact. Take out the two small screws at the bottom and the "VOLT" faceplate comes off revealing the guts insde. Be careful and gentle and make sure you don't bend the needle. Don't know if the 240 is the same, but the 280 looks like this: If SteveJ works up a video, that would be fantastic.

Before you go too far, I think I have a 240 fuel gauge hiding somewhere in my parts collection. I can open it up and do a video of the measurements so you can copy the steps.

I think we can all agree that aluminum is superior BUT only the cool kids have billet aluminum beanies, foil beanies are for amateurs and DIYers.

No more difficult than changing any of other ones. The only limitation would be the mechanical skill and aptitude of the person doing the work.

The question and debate about aluminum vs. tin is not new, and the answer is that the people who wear real tin (Sn) are loonies. From https://www.zapatopi.net/afdb/alternatives.html#TIN "In general, when people say "tin foil" they really mean aluminum foil. But what about tin (Sn)? Does it have the same anti-psychotronic properties as aluminum? Most experts agree that tin does have an effect but opinions are divided as to whether or not it is as good as aluminum. A small, but vocal, contingent even argues that tin is superior, but they are held by most to be the lunatic fringe of Foil Deflector Beanie science. I would advise people wishing to build a Deflector Beanie to stick with aluminum whenever possible since it is a proven technology." And more reading on the "The History and Anti-Psychotronic Properties of Tin" can be found here: https://www.zapatopi.net/afdb/tin.html

I got the cap off, I just wasn't sure which position was locked or unlocked. So as soon as I knew spinning was locked I leaned on it a little bit and it came off. I also just put a battery in it and all of the electronics came right to life. Pretty cool and fun. Thanks to all.

Just arrived from the folks on the Nissan Social Media team - a box of Nissan swag! Check out the new Z logo on the cap, that's a silver javelin down the diagonal.

Sure does. The end result was much better than it could have been. A lot of filing, sanding, and polishing turned that mess into a usable snout. Somehow I even got it round. 🙂

I did not remove the grease seal yet. Was hoping they would come out together, but as I thought about it the last couple of days, was wondering if maybe that wasn't the hold up. Will get the seal out of there and see what happens. As for drift placement, yes, I was very careful to place it on the race and not the stop. Was actually keeping it in one of the two notches as shown in the manual. Thanks Jeff!

Try searching on You Tube. There are some videos there about changing valve seals on L24s and L28s without removing the head and manifolds.

On my L26 without aircon, the timing pointer was on the carb side of the engine where the aircon compressor would be fitted. On my L28 it is on the spark plug side to allow space for aircon compressor. I’m guessing cooler is a translation anomaly, meaning aircon.

Please stop... oh godd... Where's the cringe emoji...

They aren't having to walk around the lot with khakis and a logo polo shirt, tennis shoes. "Let me go talk to my sales manager, maybe I can get him down some more". Those were the good old days right?

So you're thinking about bidding on a car in an internet auction. Does this help? Makes me cringe. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1972-datsun-240z-166/

Bought a 67 chevelle 383 stroker for a friend of mine ,from Michigan, Jackson, it's going to be shipped coming weeks. He wanted 18k but reserve was not met on Ebay ( 13 ), I offered him 15k, eventually he came around. Hope it all works out, it remains risky transfering alot of money overseas, without meeting the actual person. I asked as much information as I could, and let him sign the bill of sale and a copy of the title, and their adress checked etc, called a few times also.