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Bought a 67 chevelle 383 stroker for a friend of mine ,from Michigan, Jackson, it's going to be shipped coming weeks. He wanted 18k but reserve was not met on Ebay ( 13 ), I offered him 15k, eventually he came around. Hope it all works out, it remains risky transfering alot of money overseas, without meeting the actual person. I asked as much information as I could, and let him sign the bill of sale and a copy of the title, and their adress checked etc, called a few times also.

#00064 was dark green and they were asking $50K for it - it was in florida. That First Green Z - the pictures were for a car sold in Bring-A-Trailer...

Maybe they took the spark plugs out.

You may also want folding outside mirrors. 😁

Beverly Hills? Hmmm. #64? That would be a find. http://topclassiccarsforsale.com/datsun/155244-awesome-240z-240-z-super-rare-low-vin-series-1-original-collector-trade-.html EXPORT, NO PROBLEM... ATTENTION COLLECTORS!! VIN # 0064!!! The 51st Z imported to the U.S. I am a Z collector and will be offering some of my more rare and sought after cars for sale in the coming weeks... This is a Super Rare, Original Ultra-Low Vin Series 1 240Z in extremely nice, low mile condition Original -

Probably fake, can’t pay with cryptocurrencies? that’s interesting.. I feel like there was a thread similar to this a couple months back...

I put an offer on a house with only a video walk through and I was in AZ over the weekend for the home inspection. I'm buying a house that has a big (for there) garage with a standard double garage door plus a golf cart door that's only a 6 foot door. I knew it would be tight to fit a real car through, but I measured it and found that the actual opening is 68" wide. The 280Z *should* be 64.2" wide according to the interwebs, so if I'm super careful, I should be able to just back it through the door with 1.5" on each side to spare. The golf cart bay is just long enough for the Z as well, but once I swap to 240Z bumpers, it will have plenty of garage length in that spot. I guess adding flares is out of the question.

I was doing a motor rebuild and suspension refresh, all kinds of small stuff popped up so it was a month long at least. You could do it in a day or two once you get all the parts together. The steering rod is kind of a pain if the motor is in the car. I used polyurethane bushings for the steering rack. Here's what I used for reference way back when I did my '77. @240260280 always has some good photos which help me better than reading directions so THANK YOU! Phillip. https://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/steering.htm

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-240Z-Float-Bowl-Suction-Chamber-Carburetor-Screws-Set/164620649300?hash=item265427c354:g:xhYAAOSwbGdfe3R~

Thats because these screws are NOT Phillips #2 they are JIS.. a Japanese type of screw recognizable by the little dot near the cross on the head! However you can use a phillips screwdriver if you are a bit careful.. Before turning check fitment and sometimes first a tap with a hammer on your screwdriver will also help unscrew.

There are lots of good suppliers for metric fasteners. I've used Bel-metric (located in Massachusetts) and was happy with product, service and prices. They can also supply the braided hose that you may want for your cooling and emissions systems and your fuel tank hoses. www.belmetric.com https://www.belmetric.com/metric-screws-c-10/?zenid=hoahf6ge7erqkui8k2t7udijt3 Not sure that you'll be able to get everything you want for your carbs, though. I wonder if it would be a good idea for you to also pick up a set of old Hitachi-SU's that you can rob parts from. I seem to recall running across someone who sells throttle shafts separately. Might be Z-Therapy.

Here you go. Mike showed this link a while ago. You can watch it coming. Blue is cold, purple is colder. https://www.windy.com/-Temperature-temp?temp,40.814,-98.350,4

Here I precariously setup my camera on a pail inside the car (thank you grand daughter for letting me borrow your plasticine), facing toward the bottom front edge of the trim. My “thing” tool is my favorite tire changing bar that is thick, tapered and tough as hell. I use it for many prying and beating operations, I sharpened the end to a flat crisp edge. It is about 1/8 thick. Have a look. 76101A06-62B6-4726-A121-0963A9D9DB93.MOV

My connector pieces were built to match what was already there. Not perfect I’m sure, it is very close. The jack plates are my own design as far as I know. I don’t remember seeing them done before. But I’m sure someone else had the same idea. The TC bucket was removed by drilling out the spot welds and careful grinding. I just welded back through the spot welds to put it back on. And yes, my thread would benefit from “chapter markers” ....

I went through the same trawling exercise and agree that the photos, while excellent throughout, don't actually cover the process of separating the T/C rear bracket (bucket?) from the rail. However, GK's comments in Post #3 make sense and confirmed what I had expected. Just don't get carried away with the grinder. You may want to check out the lower rail repro that's now available c/o KlassicFab Vintage JDM... https://kfvintagejdm.com/product-category/datsun/?swoof=1&paged=1&really_curr_tax=37-product_cat If you haven't seen the KF Vintage catalog, It's well worth a look. Prices are reasonable, payment is straightforward, and shipping was prompt (at least in my experience, anyway). The pieces I received look really good. I haven't done a trial-install yet, so I can't offer any first-person comments about the quality of fit. All I can say is that I have yet to see any complaints surface from other customers. Another excellent reference thread for Z structural repairs (although the work performed is at a pretty high level) is that by member Disepyon over on the HybridZ.com site... https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/103797-2-4-0-z-l-s-1/#comments I'm enjoying your thread. Nice production quality in your videos. I'm impressed. This will probably become a go-to reference for others contemplating a full re-build of a Z.