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Okay @Zed Head this is blatant sarcasm. No brains required. It's pretty funny. https://www.tmz.com/videos/2020-11-21-112120-brian-williams-4888195/

OK, really really last one this time. My theory is that your drill hole is too close to the bumper mounting flange and because of the way the mono-tube shock works you're trying to force oil through a tiny orifice and it just takes time. I think you have two choices: 1) Drill another hole further back. 2) Push the shock in and hold it there for enough time for the pressure to bleed off. This is a pic with the shock cut open. If you look closely down into the tube, you'll see a very small hole in the center of the piece at the bottom. I'm thinking you've got a mix of gas and oil in the shock tube and when you push the shock in, it compresses the gas, but not the oil. If you compress it and wait long enough, that pressure should eventually equalize? Shock cut open showing the orifice that separates the two chambers of the mono-tube design:

This resurrection project was supposedly "RAN WHEN PARKED". The problem was the park. The paperwork trail looks like it was badly parked for about 15 years. Almost 100% complete original, no parts missing except for a center cap on one of the wheel covers. The head gasket looked good, no signs of leakage or blown areas; All of the valve train was intact but rusty from poor storage. I am going to assume it did run until parked and the valve train components all look functional. If and when we get this project running it will not be driven hard so reusing the OEM valve train parts I think will be safe. The valves are currently in the soak tank to clean off the carbon deposits. The valve seats have been cut at our local machine shop and I am going to lap in the valves and see what the valve faces look like after a coarse and fine lapping compound procedure. Our machine shop said the guides measured up fine and looking at the valves, the stems look very clean. All of the valves came out easily when I disassembled the head. The camshaft was seized on bearings # 1 & #2 but some BLASTER soaking and gentle persuasion got those freed up. I will try the budget cylinder head route and do the lapping and assembly myself and continue the cleaning of the camshaft which will take some time. Who knows what the specified limit may be. Lots of repair manuals leave you guessing on some specs. Hopefully they are not super critical limits. Thanks again for all the helpful input, John-Lugoff, SC.

It also has the ultra rare rear window wiper option.

Tried to find one on Amazon just to get a view but there's too many choices for those words. I did find these though, which look really useful for our cars. https://www.amazon.com/DEDC-Universal-Slotted-Rubber-Medium/dp/B074TBZMLZ/ref=sr_1_31?dchild=1&keywords=low+rise+auto+scissor+lift&qid=1606085425&refinements=p_36%3A-80000&rnid=386419011&s=automotive&sr=1-31

Wow! That was a pita. I'm using my phone and forgot to lower the pics mb's. Anyhow I will get whatever you need tomorrow. I have to cook dinner then beat the dog. Cliff

NippI'ma do a photo dump for now starting from the rear. This car is in a cocoon and of course the battery was dead so I had to get down in there. I can answer questions when this K4 kicks in. The 3 hinges are riveted on the foward peice and phillips head screws on the rear section. Those tool bins are not accessible on my raised deck 280 like my 240. You can see them under the board but I had to unscrew the cargo straps to lift the board to photograph them. There's a long piece of chrome trim that holds the carpet down above those bins.

I'll get you loaded down with pics when I get home. About an hour?

Yes, I did have to remove the gas tank to get the passenger side shock out. It was worth it, though.

I can add to your Hoover file. I remember the thread from @grantf in 2011. Here's his pictures that might help the OP. There's actually 3 hinges but a long piano hinge would also work. Any how here they are.

Sorry, one last thingc... I drilled up here. And you can see from the shock shaft that mine stayed compressed no problem: And after cutting the shock open and analyzing the guts, I left a note for myself if I ever have to do it again:

Oh, and I mentioned above that the nuts are easy to get to... That's with the whole thing off the car. I don't remember how difficult it is when the whole assy is installed. Sorry.

There is only one significant hurdle to getting the shock out of the bracket and that's the nut on the back side. It's not hard to get to, or hard to turn, but the problem is that there is nothing (except a little friction) holding the shock shaft from spinning. But once you get that nut off, it's not difficult to take the shock our or put it back in. So if you clean up the threads good and put some penetrating oil on it and then hit it with an impact wrench, it should come right off. If you put a ratchet on it, I give it 50/50 that the shock shaft will spin inside the body. Here's the nut: And if the shaft does spin, about the only thing you can do at that point is cut the nut off with a cutting disk. Big ol' PITA: I did two of them, one came off easy with a ratchet and the other did not. After my (lack of) success, I helped another Z guy do the same and told him to skip the ratchet and use an impact gun. His both wizzed off with no trouble at all.

I'm the guy with the question on this item. Thanks jfa and all who brought clarity to my inquiry! Unless this is one of those components that has extraordinary durability, I'm sure I'll have more questions later if I can find a replacement. By the way, it's a one owner car mine since new (72669). I put it in storage in 1983 and began a preservation project about 12 months ago.

Hahaha!!!! He's the Hoov!

Not the relay for the second set of points. That is near the front of the car. It's the relay for the inhibitor switch. The green wires go to the seat belt buzzer. One black/yellow wire is from the inhibitor switch. The other two black/yellow wires complete the circuit to power the starter solenoid. When the automatic transmission is in Park or Neutral, the contacts should be closed on the inhibitor switch. When the key is in ON or START, this energizes the relay called K-18. The contacts close on the starter solenoid circuit so that the car will start in the ON position.

How they did it; may be why it sits too high

Just no!!!!

Looks like that ZX has a scoop on the front, and would be perfect in Death Race 2000.

That's a particular style called Bosozoku in Japan. Kinda fun to see these cars and what people are doing with them...

I bet he doesn’t have problems with exhaust gases in the passenger compartment, eh?

Hopefully he brings them to the show and slides them in, at the end of the day puts them back in the hatch.

Kardashian Wide Body Kit

I like the louvers on the sides, I guess that directs the rain water up to cool the door hinges.

The 90s called, they want their car back .....

On the plus side, it was done to a 2+2.

COOL MAN!

https://seattle.craigslist.org/see/cto/d/seattle-1978-datsun-series-v8/6939207855.html This one's been on sale for awhile. Maybe the owners weren't too sure about the quality of the late c3 Corvettes. Personally, I love the late '70's - early '80's Corvettes/Trans Am's/Firebirds..and if a GM small block belongs in anything, it's one of those. Just my opinion though.