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My race Z has an oil cooler. The oil is passed to it from an adapter on the oil filter boss on the engine, through an Oberg oil screen, then to the cooler and back to the adapter and the engine oil passages. There is an oil temp sensor in the oil pan, and during a race the oil runs about 200 to 210 degrees f. The gauge reads from 140 to around 300. I hung some plates on it and took it for a drive to town once, and the oil temp barely made it to 150. When not running at full song, for sustained periods, the engine doesn't make enough waste heat to get the oil hot, so a thermostatic diverter valve would be needed if the car was driven casually more than in racing conditions. Sure, the oil gets hot enough to be felt on the oil filter, on a street driven Z. In addition to lubricating the engine, it also absorbs some of the waste heat the coolant doesn't get, and it is dissipated somewhat through the oil pan. I bet if you took a non contact pyrometer and meqsured, the oil pan and filter housing might read around 160 to 170. Certainly not too hot considering the oil is changed frequently, i.e. every 5,000 miles or once yearly on a car driven infrequently. As for the oil, I run 20-50 in the race car, and change it after every race meet. In my street Z 10-30 is fine, I'm only driving around town, not trying to be the first guy to the next stoplight. My 48 Ford 8N tractor gets the same 20-50 the race car gets, at 72 years old the flathead four engine still works hard. The Cummins diesel in my pickup, the diesel in my Kubota tractor and the Kubota mower all get Shell Rotella or Chevron Delo 15-40, oil formulated for diesel engines. My 2005 Subaru Legacy wagon calls for 5-30. Mrs. Racer has a 2012 Toyota Corolla, and it gets 0-10 oil, stuff is like water. I don't get too fussy about brands, although Kendall GT1 is what I use in the race car. And I never use additives. The oil manufacturers spend a lot of money and time figuring out the perfect addative package for each oil specification, and after it is consumed or otherwise altered from use, it is time to replace it. Oil is cheap to insurance for expensive engines.

One of my throttle linkage rod ends was broke/worn enough that it occasionally popped off while driving, not much fun in traffic. Saw this thread that talked about salvaging the old plastic ones to create new linkages, but did this instead. Bought some 8mm-M5 ball sockets from Grainger and M5 threaded rod. I've seen them or similar on Amazon also, but wanted to see them before buying. Sockets have a wire lock pin, which definitely lock them onto the ball, but they are also pretty tight without the wire. I wish I had a lathe to remove the unused threads, so I used some shrink tubing to cover them up. Not factory looking, but works great if you're not into the originality thing, or just need time to round up some unobtainium originals.

Yes! Think, spindle pins...

The gap is to pass the bare little cable once you’ve pushed the main metal body back through the big hole. Whack the end until it dislodges from the bracket, moving to the left in your picture.

Nice bike. A dedicated bike lift is about 3 feet wide, and about as long as your Goldwing. It with also have a place for the front wheel to hold the bike securely, something a 4 post car lift doesn't have. Something like this: My Ram weighs around 8,000lbs or so empty, so I would need at least a 10,000lb lift, and a minimum ceiling height of 12 feet. My 4 post lift is too narrow, not long enough, and doesn't have the lifting capacity for the weight of the pickup. New Ram by Racer, on Flickr

I get so jealous seeing how little rust some peoples cars have....🥺 congrats, nice find

Decided to post up my restoration of HLS30-12070 that began earlier this year. I'm a long-time member of this group, but unfortunately lost my previous login information. Anyways back to the car and history of this Z: 1971 Series 1 240Z Purchased new from Earl Hughes Motors of Fort Worth, Texas on 12-21-1970 Original Color: 901 Silver Original Engine: L24-16418 Chassis Number: HLS30-12070 Mileage as of 07-11-2020 (date of purchase) 75,206 Last registration of vehicle: 1990 Car shows no signs of major rust or involved in any major accidents. It does have one repaint in the factory (or close to) silver. Missing front bumper, rear hatch vents, and hatch emblem. All other parts appear to be present and intact. First impressions, car shows to be a one-owner survivor that has spent its entire life in the North Texas area. Even living solely in a dry climate area, I was amazed how clean the body was from cancerous rust. There is no undercoating on the belly of this Z, making it very transparent of what the underlying steel has in store. Frame rails and floors are clean (minus a few previous floor jack mishaps we'll straighten out), all four wheel wells are clean. Rockers, dog legs, rear hatch area, hatch itself, doors, and the battery tray all look solid and well preserved. Goal for this Z is to go back 100% original as possible. We'll strip it back to the shell and build it up from there. This is the 6th (maybe 7th) Z for us to work on as a family restoration, and with a combined 40+ years in the paint/body/fabrication world should be a fun project to document.

The thing that nobody can resist trying in their head is "race car is spelled the same both ways". You say that to someone and they get that spacey pause for a second.

An understatement. I laughed a little when I read that, but I'm not laughing at you.

YUP.. windshield was cracked right at the lower left edge . tried to stop the crack by drilling (and melting, see wires of glass at top!) but did'nt succeed.. A day later the glass was cracked in more than one direction.. well that was a bummer..

When i was busy on a car i made this pic.. what is it? For hobby i "worked" (Were present! 😉 ) for a short time at a car repair shop, the owner got pic's of repairs of his guy's of cars he did'nt have a clue what was in the photograph's haha ... sometimes you have to see the "whole" picture to know what's on the detail pic.

Jon is the man when it comes to these things! His speeduino setup and tuning is great to follow! So here’s the thing, I got fed up of paying money for rolling road tuning that to my mind didn’t give me as good a tune as it should have. Hence the analogue MTX. While I’m a frustrated data junkie and would love to have data in spreadsheets to play with, I find using the standalone AFR gauge invaluable under all throttle conditions. It has helped me tune the cruising AFR and with the custom timing using the 123 ignition (particularly useful for the vac advance and around the reversion conditions causing a torque hole). So in short, yes it does help in other than WOT conditions. It’s also interesting to see how the car is behaving at different AFRs and throttle applications. For example, exhaust popcorn popping on the overrun starts at 16:1 or I find it interesting to see it go instantly rich (12ish) as soon as I plant the throttle and then slightly leaner as carb pistons start to rise and then richer again as the fuel catches up with the air flow. Or even that when I come off WOT, it’s still richer than expected for a second or two - unlike what I am used to with fuel injection on other cars. Likely due to residual fuel on the walls of the intake/ in the carbs. I get a perverse sense of satisfaction having this knowledge. ;)

Sure I remember! Lets to that again! Having you as my co-pilot again would be a much better solution as far as I'm concerned! So I knew you had the analysis equipment, but I didn't know it was an LM-1. I guess at the time, I just knew it worked.

A few improvements to the shop. Rigged up a transmission after cooler for my new Kobalt compressor, reduces air going into the holding tank to room temperature. It drastically keeps water out of the air lines. I also made up a 3/4" copper pipe system to catch any moisture that comes out of the tank before going to my water filter and regulator. This is just a preliminary set up before I put in a 5 stage filter system for painting. Also am trying out this small blaster from HF. The cowl area on the Z has plenty of surface rust and a few pitted hole in it. I need to weld patch panels in and I cant really figure outa way to get in there and clean it out. I'm using glass media.

8500W LiftMaster Great opener.

No matter how attractive the product, it it doesn't fit well and fully complement the car you'll always see the problem and have regrets. Better to get something that works well with the platform that you can always admire. You probably knew the answer to your question even as you posted.

Huge milestone was accomplished on the Z. We had the entire shell and all components dustless blasted. We were very happy with the final results of this. No new problems were unearthed behind the respray. Shell was immediately followed up with a DTM (direct to metal) primer to prevent contamination from handling the raw steel.

Engine out, interior out, and getting back to tearing the body back down. Before blasting it, I wanted to remove the factory sound deadening from the floors so that no area would be left untreated. It surprises me when I see very nicely restored Z cars, taken all the way to bare metal, but the sound deadening wasn't removed. Lots of rust, no matter how clean the car appears, likes to live under there. Once that was out of the way, the remaining suspension, steering, and various components on the underside of the Z, were documented, tagged and removed. After having all the heavier structural parts off the shell, we mounted it to a rotisserie.

Taking a break from the interior strip down, pulled the engine out in preparation for sending the long block out for a thorough cleaning and rebuild.

Swim at your own risk! I was pretty surprised how bad it looked initially, and how clean it came out after blasting. Pics to follow...

First day of restoration. Began with tearing down the interior and hatch area of the Z, documenting each part, fastener type and quantity, and making notes of what we would need to order.

Interior is complete and original, but shows a good amount of wear. Seat foams are completely gone in the bases. Door panels are clean with minimal warping (will be replaced) and do not have speakers cut out of them. Dash is complete, and the center control panel is intact and in good shape. Radio is not original and will need to be replaced with a correct unit. Console is in good shape as is the ash tray. Dash has typical cracking. Steering wheel is in good shape as is the horn button. All carpets are well overdue to be tossed. Apart from the dome light and strut tower caps, all interior plastics are intact and in good shape. All glass is original, clean, and free of chips. Car has complete dealer installed AC system. This will be restored with a modern AC compressor and accessories for improved performance.

With a manual transmission and one of the Champion radiators with ATF cooling ports could one use that for an oil cooler?

PCV issues would affect all cyls not just one.

I think the reason there's so much controversy about the particulars of oil (and SO many things) is because there's no obvious and clear BEST product for everyone's situation. If you used the forums' "best" and "worst" oil, I'd doubt you'd see any significant difference unless you were running that motor for 100,000 miles per year. At that point, you likely have to measure differences in wear with equipment better than .0005 indication. A friend gets so wrapped around the axles about this sort of controversy that becomes paralyzed and cannot take a decision. For the record, I pulled my 73 L24 at about 130K miles in mid 80s for a refurb. There were no real problems, just looking for optimum performance. Original honing scratches were still present, seals were still in decent shape (most were hard but still keeping oil on the correct side - for the most part. This was all based on technology that is now 40 years old. Maybe it's a bit like the guy who bought a new H&K and ran 15,000 rounds through it before he cleaned it. It continued to operate properly and well. Lubricant technology development in the intervening years has become quite sophisticated and yielded amazing improvements in friction and wear reduction. I'd probably bet that the lowest cost crap oil you can find at AutoZone would far surpass the performance of the best oils of the day 40 years ago, which suggests that decent oil today should keep them running well past our life exoectancy, but that's just me, and I've had a cocktail!

Perhaps the comparable key points can be limited to lubrication/wear, deposits, replacement interval, seal interaction, and costs.