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This is what I posted in the past on the seatbelt interlock relay:

Sorry to see you have the same issue Captain. Totally agree on the original design being elegant. If you’re not bothered by originality, the classic BSA motorbike ones worked perfectly and look all the money - way better than the RockAuto ones. I had to trim the edge off one end to help it over the spring top-hat lip without covering the drain holes (a tight fit even with the originals). The dimensions on the other end are tight enough over the strut tube body (late 260z) that I could have gotten away without the clip. I did add the clip regardless but it’s not hidden like on the originals gaiters. Here’s the link. Let me know if you can’t find them or anything else suitable state-side and I will get some to you. https://www.classicbikeshop.co.uk/bsa-fork-gaiters-42-5320.html Here are some dimensions for comparison ...

I was reading your post from the beginning and have a question. When you said the car wouldn't start did you mean the engine wouldn't turn over or it turns over, but will not run? Also the relay you showed is a Bosch std 30 amp relay that is used for everything and mostly in alarm systems. If this is hooked to your start switch the PO might have tried to by pass the wiring to the starter because the car wouldn't start. I had this problem with my 75 and have seen it on more than 5 cars over the years. look at the crude diagram I have drawn. I currently employ this relay because it eliminates running a high current through the ignition switch that if shorts in the steering column causes all sorts of problems.

Dear Datsun Brethren I try from time to time to come to the aid of all manner and nature of Datsun people, and last weekend I had the good (cough cough) fortune to work on a 69 Datsun Roadster. It had leaking brake lines after replacement, and I was able to assist the owner with the repair. Something about "just tighten the nut more. It won't break"... But along the way, I discovered something that we need to be aware of as righteous Z owners. Chances are it will never happen to you, or me, but you need to know. As part of the trouble shooting, the owner of said Roadster brought a spare "Switch - Brake", you know, that safety brake light switch block on the fender well that turns on your dash BRAKE light if either side of the brakes loses pressure. We have discussed it's care and feeding previously. Here it is on a Z in case you visual learners need a picture. Here is the one he brought with him from his Roadster. I was questioning whether perhaps his ancient beast used DIN flares or some craziness and that might the source of his leakage, so he brought an example for me to examine. Looks da same to me as our Z part, right? We use the same one a 510 and I'm sure many other models, right? WRONG!!!! The tube nut threads on this abomination are some SAE nonsense, yikes 3/8-24!! Yes the horror of it all. SAE parts on a Datsun. As if having SAE seat belt bolts isn't enough of a embarrassment for most Datsun owners already. Now this comes as no surprise to any Roadster owner I'm sure, as they preach that the front half is SAE and the back half is Metric. Talk about fake news! Anyway, some day, some kind hearted Roadster-owning soul may offer us unexpecting trusting Z owners his spare "Switch-Brake" when we are at our most vulnerable, stuck on the side of the road (in Podunk Kansas of course), and yee shall be sorely disappointed and down hearted should you attempt to install it. Ensure he attempts to thread in both M10x1.0mm nut and a 3/8-24 before bothering to send it. It is true what is written... 46100-26001 is not the same as 46100-U5200 (maybe the insides are the same, doubt it though!) You've been warned, my job is done here. Go forth and merrily forget this nugget of truth.

You are most welcome chap - glad the musings of a madman had some value.

My 75 does not have any of that stuff as far as seat belt interlocks or emerg switch buttons. Maybe was removed at some point in its life. Just reach in and start it. in gear out of gear, etc... Darwin was consulted as to how to prevent problems.

Thank you for the comprehensive and informative reply. I have been collecting license plates for about 50 years, and have learned quite a bit about the details, but just now learned something new, so it is appreciated that you took the time to compose such a great reply. I recently reregistered my 72 240Z, using the original license plate as “year of manufacture”. It is now permanently registered, although use is limited to test drives after maintenance or repairs, parades, travel to and from shows, or for pleasure.

CO, you are most welcome and I’m glad to be of service. The offer is very serious, if you want them from here just tap me up. The OD on mine was also 55mm hence why the gaiter has such a great stretch fit without over stretching. I spent hours on google before I came across something that was right or very close on all three dimensions. I also didn’t want anything too short that would pop off every time the car was jacked up.

Sean, Alan brings up good points. Perhaps working out a licensed reselling of M-Speed could be an alternate path. Also selling wheels from China has great liability risk due to quality issues that can that go many levels upstream in the supply chain and are impossible to monitor. Re-selling M-Speed could eliminate this. I would recommend using manufacturers out of Taiwan if possible. I would never risk using Mainland Chinese-made wheels or tires on any cars my family drives.

In simple terms, in the UK, typically vehicles that are considered to be “kit cars” or have their identity in doubt or have been substantially altered get a Q number plate. See at the bottom of this post for a formal description. Historically, Q plate cars have had a “don’t go near it with a bloody barge pole” stigma as many of them were two cars welded together or bodged repairs on written off cars etc. On our pre-2001 plates, a letter on it’s own signifies the year of the vehicle’s registration (or in imported classics circles, year of manufacture). But if that letter is a Q then you have a Q plate. For example, my plate is TYM 787 S - the S means 1977. But if the S was on the other side I.e. S787 TYM, it would have meant registered between mid 1998 - early 1999. In 2001 they changed this convention. Q plates are perceived OK if you have built your own car like the one above - but not great on a classic. In one extreme case I am aware of, a Q plate was issued on a restored MGB for “substantial alterations”, slashing it’s value. The substantial alterations rules are new and before clarifications were made, were feared by classic car owners such as myself who like non-standard classics. In 99.9% of cases the DVLA is sensible about it. There is a points system depending on levels of mods. For example, if you take off the front suspension and replace with a double wishbone setup, or transplant a V8 (not an in-line 6) etc then you start losing points and get closer to a Q plate. But if you replace your front suspension arm with TTT ones of the “same configuration” or weld on coil overs, then you are still keeping the same configuration and thus, your points. The issue this law is addressing, I understand was started by a classic Bugatti owners club who started to build cars out of parts, issued their own VINs and sold them as original classics (Happy to be corrected). Something like the body shell being discussed here will not have that issue as it is a genuine VIN from factory on an original shell and once the car is together (one hopes as a tribute or other non-substantially modified incarnation), will likely be treated as any other imported Z project that I’ve written formal date of manufacture validation letters for. Here’s a better explanation of what gets a Q plate. There are certain types of cars which will be issued with Q-plates, including: Self-built kit cars Radically modified or altered cars Former Ministry of Defence military vehicles (whose history cannot be released as they are classified) Self-imported vehicles Cars without a Vehicle Identification Number (VIN). Q-plates are issued by the Driver and Vehicle Licensing Agency (DVLA) to cars whose age or identity is in doubt, with any previous vehicle registration that may have been associated with the car invalid once Q-plates are issued. Sorry for the long reply, but you did ask [emoji1787]

My first concern isn't crud in the tank if it's been coated. My first concern is you have a stopped up fuel or return line or the tank pick up is clogged with tank sealer

I wouldn't focus on the resistor yet. You haven't found the main wires from the harness that supply the resistor with power. And the wire that supplies the yellow start wire. I'd go back to the ignition switch and follow the wires through the connectors. You're looking at the wrong end of the circuit, I think.

Here's a couple of pix of the coil/res. Let me know if you need more

This is one of those critical moments in running a business. Do you take a relatively small loss, to keep your customers happy and your reputation in good standing. Or do you hold your ground to save that small cost of fixing the problem, destroying the good will that exists and damaging future sales. California Datsun comes to mind. I hope these guys can handle the broad view. They have a huge selection of parts now, the business has grown quite a bit since it first appeared, not that long ago. This thread is like a case study in a business course. What not to do. Let's see what happens next... https://zcardepot.com/

You should still have power to the coil with the key on, through the ignition module. The ignition nodules are known to get wet. Seems like you're making progress.

Sorry to digress, Ing module for 75 280 . Also be careful with the carparts manul as it covers several years. 75 has only one fuse link box and the manual shows two. I have a 75 and it 's different than the 76 in many ways. Do you still need a photo of coil and resistor wiring?

You can go to the following https://www.carpartsmanual.com/

According to the parts manual, it should be part #13.

The other party was in Jeep Compass. They were in a rental (I think some kind of private party rental) and looks like it just got their bumper and some trim. I filed a claim with my insurance company mainly just so I don't have to worry about any of it. No determination of fault yet. If I get anything from my insurance company, great, but honestly, it's the time and work that's hung over me more than any of the costs. Assuming everything looks good after I pull it apart, I'm probably at ~$500 in parts, paint and other materials. I'm with you guys on the fender and headlight. I'm still just coming to terms with having to re-weld it again and don't want to think about it :) Passenger side hood hinge was tweaked; same with the front of the fender support (at least). Hope nothing too bad happened to the hood -- they're harder to find. And the bumper's stainless, which I assume is easier to fix than one that's chrome plated. Buddy of mine suggested that the vanity plate might be a little too on the nose. Next time maybe I'll pick something way more positive and hope it's similarly prophetic 😄 (I dunno...maybe LTRYWNR?)

The wire colors and the plug shape are shown in the wiring diagram. The 76 color diagram might be a good starting point. Otherwise it's in the back of the 1975 FSM. https://www.classiczcars.com/files/category/1-wiring-diagrams/