Leaderboard

Taking social distancing very seriously......?

I got the engine, transmission, headers and pieces of the trim i needed, the guy gave me more things that he said in the ad for free. I will start reading and checking how to take things apart, i rotated the engine and it seems good and will all accessories.

Here are the rest of Monday's photos and a video from Suds & Shine: https://photos.app.goo.gl/UaeiMfMAhHnzXiQu6

I mean - KYB thought it thru . They have a small standoff at the bottom. You give up a bit of shock length , but they fit . I have a pair of old red Koni’s that came out of a 70, I’ll pair them up and see how they compare . Those shocks the gland nut and shock were one piece insert . Im going to cut down the gland nut a bit more because I don’t see MSA or Koni doing anything more . I’m hoping if I do anything I will give someone else heads up of the possible headache

It's going to be a while before I can really get going on this one but I can work on all the stuff in the boxes in between other stuff. She arrived this morning just after a big dump of snow, my plow guy was late so had to shovel a path to the storage tent. the last pic is showing how low some PO cut the springs, the fender lip is digging into the tire and the car is stripped of all weight.

Judged Car Show photos. The video is being created as I type. https://photos.app.goo.gl/a3SkgrHAVDRmx82C8

I don't think they can. As far as I know the reason that all the new cars have goofy proportions is due to safety regulations, resulting in the tall, bloated body, and short, small windows. I hate the trend too, but I think it's here to stay. Regulations have ruined cars, and car design, and have been increasingly so for 45 years.

You know what I find most interesting about that chap is that if you were old enough to have an email address in the early 2000s and someone said the government is monitoring emails, you would have laughed at them and put them in a certain bucket of people.

That could be from the "location" function on your friends phone. Or it might be that your friends phone identified your Wifi signal, or Bluetooth. Or just triangulated cell towers and matched with your Contacts. All of these things happen, all the time. I've had the feeling that ads show up after I stop at a store front and look at what's inside. But that could just be a recency effect. Like seeing 240Z's everywhere after you buy your own 240Z. I'm not trying to avoid, just making an observation. The ads in the middle of the page is from Mike's ad settings though. He might have missed the setting for Replies maybe, that's where they showed up. None here now though. I just saw Edward Snowden on the news the other day.

by comparison to an S30, sorry just don't see it. Going to just have to keep living in the past. My color TV is from 1968 (Zenith), my stereo is 1964 (the Fisher), table radio (playing right now) 1957 General Electric. I am sure this new Z will have fans, good for them, I long for a simple, light, fun to drive GT type car. What would be nice is a Kit car I suppose.

240ZBUILTBYME and ConVerTT While some of us on this forum maintain our Zs, others repair them, and some of us restore them. We do what we can do. But you two guys are on your own planet, building them from raw metal! Keep up the good work. Like out-of-shape sports fans, we're cheering you on from the sidelines.

If you need an additional computer to route the traffic for step 3 consider a raspberry pi, it runs a free operating system. And is around $35-$55. Also it has very low energy consumption. https://pi-hole.net https://www.raspberrypi.org/products/raspberry-pi-4-model-b/

I would recommend 1. Becoming a donating czcc member ( if you can afford it) 2. installing unlock origin extension on any browsers you use. https://github.com/gorhill/uBlock Consider step 1 or turn off ublock on czcc. Mikes operating costs are said to increase with this beefy server he’s upgrading to. 3. if you are technically inclined you can block advertising at the DNS (what resolves URLs into IP addresses) level by using pihole or adguard home. Here is the configuration I use at my place. https://github.com/amarjandu/neptunes-orbit in the couple weeks that I’ve used it it’s blocked ~30% of network traffic out. you don’t have to go all the way to step 3, I used ublock origin for almost a decade, and it works wonders. I think if you are on an android phone you can get it installed on that as well, I use an iphone, so I don’t get that option. if you need some help getting the DNS level blocking installed, or want more information reach out. ?

Thanks for the pics. I have a feeling I would have drunk my face off if we didn’t have a pandemic. COVID saved me some money because I own so many folks on this forum beer that I would have come home broke. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The engineers in 1971 probably would not even have set a spec on the bottom inside corner of the tube. There was no need, there was no part that needed to fit there with the original application. That's my logic on why some have a problem and some don't. The variation is great, because there was no measurement spec. But, you're right that Koni should have considered that fact when they produced a part for old 240Z's. Somehow they overlooked it, and, apparently, assumed that they would all be "the same". They messed up. Surprised though, that they gave up on you. That's not good. My other logic is that griping at Koni isn't going to get the part in to the tube. That's why I offered the Nissan gland nut solution.

The KONI nut is a thick walled nut . Even after increasing the ID , it still has close to 1/8” wall thickness . It just needed to be cut deeper and it would have been fine . Better yet - the KONIs should have been made -like most shocks for this car- with a smaller ID at the bottom to keep off the weld bead at the bottom

The weld bead holding the perch to the strut tube is about 1/8th" tall and I cut just above that, you can see the cut line right next to the weld bead in the photo on post #32, after the perch is off you grind down the bead so the split collar and perch can slide past. The only danger is cutting too deep and going into the strut tube, the metal is thin. A hacksaw is a safer way to remove the perch.

The expensive ones are for the early cars and the cheap ones are the superseded part for later cars.

The rears have their connections opposite. You have to bend the hardlines around some but they will work. When I did mine simply swapping sides made for a lot less bending. Driver's side fits closer on the passenger's side and vs/versus. Let me splain that better... The cheaper ones are at a different angle than the OEs. Look at the pictures and you'll see. I made them work and that's about all that needs to be said.

Slow progress over here @siteunseen half the battle was keeping water out of the car! HA. I have to make the wiper sub-harness as my car was missing everything in the engine bay..... but the way the relays are wired up in the diagrams throws me in for a loop. It will get a respray.... eventually ?

Don't discount different paint suppliers. We use a few different suppliers and they don't all come out "the same". With some suppliers the color will differ within their own paint lines - the lower cost lines especially do not match what you will get with their premium lines - which is understandable (PPG especially). Most red pigments are pretty cheap but yellows can be very expensive. We have a couple of Z's in town that have been resprayed 918 - they look nothing alike. And, to my mind, they look very little like the original alkyd enamel.

I have this problem when buying socks. Not kidding! Store light and "real" light are not the same.

"When Ronnie Milsap retires he will be an inspector at Harbor Freight Tools" Nostradamus Les Prophéties 1555

Pulled all the fuel and brake lines and finally got to flip it all the way upside down. It will be so luxurious to finish up the rust repair and seam welding like this …???

Muahahaha -haha ??? Bottom looks better than I thought .... I guess there is a LOT of new metal already It's a little bottom heavy so I might need to raise it a little bit tomorrow. ?? So I am tempted to drag it outside and pressure wash the bottom before bead blasting. Maybe dry it with a leaf blower? Any thoughts?

dontcha just love all the space around these motors? it always makes me happy to look down and see grass on both sides of the block - unlike anything newer where god forbid you drop a tool in the bay cause you'll never find it again... looks great - fun thread to follow!