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Covid Tuning SK Racing Carbs for a friend. BRE 46 Tribute

As a pleasant footnote: James @MSA offered a store credit for the full amount of the sender I bought from them that broke during installation($200) if I returned it! So it's on its way to them now. I'm happy about that and MSA will continue to be one of my the suppliers for my Z parts. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Finally had a car show that wasn't cancelled. I just wish it could have been when the temperature was below average.

On the door, as Patcon says, 2 locking positions, it looks like only the first is engaging. If the door seal is new you may have to slam the door to get it to close then park it out in the sun and let it get hot. It's unheard of today to have to slam a car door, in the 70's, not uncomom, hopefully the suns heat will loosen up the seal. The hatch, is there a possibility the captive nuts or bolts for the hatch hinges are stripping the threads or maybe some grease got between the hinge and roof flange? A properly torqued hinge bolt should easily resist the pressure from a seal.

Mine... Captain's...

Well injectors are back and I have efi spark plugs. I spent a while tuning this weekend and with Tioga’s help I think I finally found one of my major problems. The tps was set at its highest sensitivity. It would bounce from .34-.49. Thus causing the ecu to think it needs to apply timing and fuel and making it run terrible. I turned it to the lowest and it’s rock solid at 0% and .01 of a voltage change. Haltech is a nice system. But wow is there a lot of settings. If anyone needs Z car help. I would recommend Tioga with Automotive Solutions! IMG_6375.MOV

Looks like the one on my Mom's Grand Marquis, red button on top. Her car wouldn't crank one night so she just left it and called a friend for a ride home THEN called me. I go and push the button, cranked the car and slammed the trunk so hard it tripped it again. I was a little mad. To add my experience with her Ford's button, when it's tripps you can see the red button up top flush with the metal body. When it's working it stays down. I'm sure it's a good, plentiful from a junkyard, switch especially if Grannyknot has one.

A car as customized as this needs a proper plate....

A little more custom bling for the engine bay!

If the hatch will align and then slowly move, then I suspect the mounts are moving because of seal pressure. You could get it adjusted and then put a faint pencil outline around the mounts. Check them after it moves to confirm the slippage. I would use a sealant between the mounts if thats whats happening to increase resistance The door is more difficult... Worn latch, worn striker are easy fixes. If I couldn't solve it any other way I would add adjustment to the inboard but I wouldn't think that should be necessary I believe the latches have two sequential locking positions. Maybe move the strike further out and see if you can get the latch to lock better

I shop at a body shop supply store. They give me good deals on professional products.

That's too funny!!!

I already treated myself to some Farecla G3 compound. A professional body shop cutting and polishing compound. The tag was a random find on eBay. It is listed under 240Z engine bay tag but the guy will make it anything you like.

It's always good when your tool is big enough. It would be interesting to see if i can afford the quantity of beer you can hold...just you! Not you and Cliff!!

LOL!!! You don't even want to know! So I decided to go ahead and make it square. I have no idea where the key(s) ended up on your blocks and I was worried that the two flat design would always put the flats in an inconvenient location for putting the wrench on it and getting leverage. It's 2.4 inches square, so your 2.5 wrench should fit fine.

Excellent!! What does that translate to in beer???

Got to love matching numbers! ?

Haha!! I like it !

Couldn’t resist picking up this polisher today. It was on sale and will go nicely with the DA I already have.

I have to say that if you put a ton of work into a 240, it will become your second car...a toy you only drive during nice weather, and even then not to certain parts of town. Mine gets to go from a locked garage to a secure parking lot at work, when I think it isn't going to rain or snow. For a special treat, I drive it to the grocery store. Once or twice a year it goes on a medium range cruise for a special event. I've put about one thousand miles per year on it. Every mile is pretty darn special, though. Look on HybridZ. You'll realise how much reinforcement a 240 needs to safely accept significantly more horsepower. By the time you do that, and put the engine in, you're talking a lot of work and money. You will then need another car to drive during inclement weather or to certain areas. If you are worried about gas mileage, you don't have enough money to do your proposed project.

Anything's possible on a Jay Leno style budget. There's a reason 240Z's are cheap in your neck of the woods, and it's spelled R-U-S-T. A big part of your budget will be spent on bringing the sheet metal back to cherry before you can begin to think about adapting a drive-train, electrical system, etc. First thing to check is the wheelbase and front-rear track. If that doesn't match perfectly, forget it. I doubt if they do, which leaves you with a tremendous amount of customization to do narrowing, widening, etc. Hardly worth it. If you like the 240Z, buy a 240Z, and appreciate it for what it is, then go buy a 370Z and get all that the 240Z could only hope to become. In the long run, you'll be money ahead with a better equity position in both cars as a bonus.