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A little more custom bling for the engine bay!

as 240260280 said, your air correctors only have an affect at WOT. similarly , your emulsion tubes and main jets have no impact on idle and gentle cruising. if changing things on the main jet stack ruined the idle, it'll be because you inadvertently disturbed something else. check everything. are your jet stacks all screwed down snugly?

This is a timely song for me right now. Lyrics I picked up the paper this morning And read all the daily blues The world is one big tragedy I wonder what I can do About all the pain and injustice About all of the sorrow We're living in a danger zone The world could end tomorrow But I'm not gonna let it bother me tonight I'm not gonna let it bother me tonight Tomorrow I might go as far as suicide But I won't let it bother me tonight Life on the street is a jungle A struggle to keep up the pace I just can't beat that old dog eat dog The rats keep winnin' the rat race But I'm not gonna let it bother me tonight I'm not gonna let it bother me tonight The world is in an uproar and I see no end in sight But I won't let it bother me tonight I'm not gonna let it bother me tonight Tomorrow I might go as far as suicide But I won't let it bother me tonight Lord, Lord, Lord We got nothing but trouble I've done all I can do today So bartender pour me a double, right now But I'm not gonna let it bother me tonight I'm not gonna let it bother me tonight The world is in an uproar and I see no end in sight But I won't let it bother me tonight I'm not gonna let it bother me tonight No I'm not gonna let it bother me tonight Tomorrow I might go as far as suicide But I will not let it bother me tonight

You have to tune for cruise first, then idle then WOT. Find the right idle jet that gives you ~ 14-16 at cruise then see if you can get 13.5 to 14.5 at idle with the same jet by adjusting the idle enrichment screws. Once you get this, move to WOT runs. Find the right main and air corrector to give you 12.5 to 13.5 from 3000 to 6000 rpm under load. note: Air correctors are used only to tune WOT main system.

The other thing you might want to know is the nut flats are 14mm opposed to the standard M10x1.5 nuts with 17mm flats. 17mm should still clear the bearing. The flat washer also has a small outside diameter OD: 16mm, ID: 10.2mm, thickness 2mm. The spring washer is normal size.

73 was the last year for points. The 74 260 was the first year for electronic ignition. Oh, and Zed Head types faster than I do.

The first electronic ignitions were just points replacements, not "high energy" so they still used the ballast. Your 74 is the first year of electronic in the Z's. Look under the dash by the fuse box and you'll see the space age module. You might burn up the coil or the module if you run without the ballast. You're letting more current through parts that weren't designed for it. The ballast went away in 1978 when they went to a high energy (current limiting) system.

That means "Don't cut off the staked in portion before taking the nut off. Just put a big enough wrench on it and spin the nut off. The staked over portion (caulking) will bend out of the way as the nut comes off." That's what they meant, but don't believe it. People have done that and it messes up the threads. Not sure why they recommended that. Maybe they thought it was less risky than trying to cut off the staked over section and accidently cutting into the threaded portion? In any event, even though they said to leave the caulking in place... Don't.

Very interesting AK260. This confirms my experience running 5-6 different profiles and monitoring an AFR meter I mounted on my steering column. My fresh built 2.8L motor has dished pistons (turbo block), an E88 head with port work and un-shrouded valves. I'm running a 276 lift, 480 duration cam and a 2 1/2" exhaust with straight through glass-pack. I used dished pistons to eliminate any possibility of detonation when setting total timing at 36 degrees, even though compression is down. With the SB needles the car runs very strong on the dyno, 180 hp at the wheels (roughly 220-230 at the crank). Torque was 225 ft. lbs. As a regular driver, the SB needles were too rich at lower RPMs for my liking. Couldn't stand the smell. I ended up defaulting to TF needles, which ended up being a compromise I could live with. Your chart shows exactly what I've experienced. Great to actually see it diagrammed. Thanks!

Your question is all over the internet. Functionally, they are mirror images. Way back when, a smart manufacturing engineer realized that they only needed to make one part, and just flip it. The Z cars were the economical man's sports car. They saved money where they could.

I put the wheel studs back into the wheel laying on the ground. then stand on the edge of the tire and use an impact to back them off

Try Z Cars of Arizona for a more reliable source of quality used steering rack assemblies. Several years ago, our friend Mr. Hoover ( @240260280 ) produced an excellent photo-article guide on the topic of replacing the Z rear wheel bearings. It includes his secret tips for getting the staked nut off. I just checked and the full article is still available (along with all of his other great 'tech tip' guides) on the Atlantic Zcar website. Go here... http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/rearwheelbearings/index.html

Just a quick update for anyone interested in my Float-Sync tools. I've sold roughly 20 sets since early April and when the stock I have is gone, I'll likely not be producing more. You can find them on e-bay or you can order from me directly at datsun.floatsync@gmail.com, and save yourself $5.00.