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@Mark Maras The plan for now is just to get it running and driving well. Then I’d like it to be a bit lower, better wheels and triple carbs look pretty cool and fun. But that stuff will be later. And I still want a 240Z too, but this car seems too solid to get rid of right now. @heyitsrama Hey, maybe we can get together sometime! I don’t have any Datsun buddies yet. The vin is 023321its a February ‘74 car. @wheee! Gotta have an extinguisher, especially with the new unknown cars.

Hi Guys - looks like "The Z Car Home Page" at ZHome.com is back on-line now.. thanks, Carl

Problem solved. Nice guys over at Pacesetter. I guess the headers come with these step washers but since I bought mine on CL I didn’t get them. They were $2 each and in their way. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

GMB 550-8040 Fuel Pump Failures: I have contacted and am now working with GMB of North America; in an attempt to identify the issue of infant mortality aka premature failure on their mechanical fuel pumps for our Z's. The issue has been widely discussed over the past couple years on different Z Car Forums and Face Book Pages. GMB Product Management has ask me if we could return 3 or 4 of these failed fuel pumps directly to them, so they can attempt to identify the problem. If you have kept one of these pumps that failed, would you be willing to package it up and return it directly to either me, or them? If so please contact me directly and we will work out the details - In addition to a response here - an Email would be best as it is most direct and easy to file/track. Email: beck@becksystems.com Please Put "GMB Fuel Pump" in the Subject Line

No, somebody has been hopping up your engine. There might be other things besides the TB and AFM. The fuel pump contact might be bridged because they had low air flow at low RPM and the pump kept losing power. Might have a vacuum leak. Might have a big cam that flops the AFM vane around, causing the contact to open and close. I'd get all of the numbers that you can from the engine and try to figure out what you have. Get the head number, check the area below the casting to see if the head has been shaved. See if it's an N42 block or an F54. Might have flat tops or dished pistons. I just looked back at your first post and see "stroker". So, the PO has probably messed with a lot of things trying to get the stockish EFI to work. Might be quickest to just go to Megasquirt or Haltech or one of the other programmable EFI systems. Or carbs.

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Smart boy keeps a fire extinguisher handy... [emoji1303]

i'll split it with you. I think we both get half of nothing...

GMB should pay zKars a substantial sum. If they follow up on what he found he probably saved a large percentage of their business. The valving design is common to many many other brands. It's all right there in his thread. The work has been done.

Hi Guys: Thanks for the replies. I was aware of @zKars Posts and several other discussions here on the subject. When I initially contacted GMB about the issue, I gave them a brief summary from the Customers perspective along with hyper-links to several on-line discussions, 3 from the Classic Z Car Club’s forum. I also included links to the reviews from Amazon.com It seems from the Amazon Reviews - that they have been selling this pump since 2015. The Reviews on Amazon seem to be 5 Star in the 2015 to 2018 period, but then from 2018 to today they were getting 1 Star reviews. No one I could find had contacted them about their faulty product - so I thought it might be good to contact them and see what if anything they would do about it. I think all of us were happy GMB was providing a mechanical pump that “looked right”, and perhaps we all expected it to perform at least close to the OEM units in terms of reliability. I was hoping that once directly notified, GMB would address / correct the issue, and provide us with a pump that could be used for more than just donor parts.

Beautiful reproductions. Congrats. Unfortunately I have sold my 240z back in January so no longer need them.

Thanks for all the info and link to the previous discussions. I know the door sills are not a critical part but I have been trying to blend in some of the more fun detailing projects like door sills, door handles, misc small parts, etc as a diversion from the much tougher and demanding projects like rear axles, suspension, did I mention rust removal, and more rust removal on this resurrection project. The diversity of projects makes the process more enjoyable for me. Thanks again. John.

Yep, it usually is the slave cylinder. both times it happened to me I was enroute to somewhere. I can tell you from experience that a Z is very easy to drive without an operating clutch pedal. Little problem shifting up or down (as long as you match revs to the trans speed) , the fun comes at a stop light when you have to turn off the engine. 1st gear, half throttle, turn the key, it chugs forward a couple of feet and you're on your way.

All good info. Another possibility if the above check out is the clutch ball pivot has broken. You will know when you examine the slave and the actuator arm it moves. Hopefully not, its a little more labor intensive to get to.

And loosen the rubber boot on the slave cylinder to check for fluid. It should be dry inside. If it's wet replace the cylinder and consider replacing the master cylinder at the same time. They both have a similar lifespan.

Is the clutch hydraulic fluid full? Check the simple stuff first. Get under the car an see if the clutch slave cylinder is moving and releasing correctly. If not, you may just have a problem in the slave cylinder or hose between master cylinder and slave. You might even have a bad clutch master cylinder. A failure in the clutch hydraulic system is more likely than failure of the actual clutch or the throwout assembly.