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I'd read a few threads about the mods, but hadn't seen that one. "If ya wanna race, update, if ya wanna date, don't race." Lol. The previous owner handed me the 4-set of KYB gas shocks in their boxes, so I'm going with them. I added the eibach progressive springs to the mix, and based on comments from people I have also ordered the spacers for the back because the eibach springs make the back end sit a little lower in the wheel well than the front. Not to mention, I already feel like I'm looking uphill sitting in the car now. Backend is shot and pretty much bottoming out on the tiniest bump. I think I'd rather the turns be handled well and I'll just have to take it easy over speed bumps. Sounds like that means the sway bar kits might be a good option for me.

Adding a couple photos of the engine bay and the wheel condition, for those interested.

And the finished door jamb grommet!

Pics from the paint shop. Got the grey primer on now.....we're getting closer.

I just have 1 note about that spring/shock combo and that is the rear does not seem stiff enough, I think it’s a trait from the progressive spring, but if the wallet lets you get Koni Yellows, might be worth it. ?

I notice the difference in tone as well. Funny, I have an 82 close ratio and it has the same tones in the casting. It looks like they made the castings in two different factories, if that was possible. +1 for @siteunseen cleaning method and then open it up and have a look. You will be just guessing untill you crack it open and have a gander.

Exactly what is required------I didn't know $hit from Shinola when I ventured into them. If an Arkie like me can do it, you and anyone else willing to put effort and time into them can be successful in bringing them back to life. CO, Motorman7 and a few others on these forums are with me in swimming against the current.

Well I dug around in the pile-o-parts and found a couple of old style diff mounts. One shot, the other in decent shape, though not new I did a bit of measuring between the old and the new, and I think I found a way to get the 35mm offset to work out. If you line up one edge of the inside of the mount so the parts that go over the cross member are in line, and turn the new mount to get the maximum difference between the location of the diff bolt mount holes, you get about 1-3/8 or 35 mm offset. There you go. Here I've blasted the good old mount and lined them up again with a straight edge. There is the 35mm diff in the diff bolt hole location. I suppose that old mount is available is anyone wants it...... I can just imagine.....

Here's a popular one. I read about it for use with transmissions. You can disassemble easily if you make a mistake, so I got some. It ends up as a very thick goo after it dries. The solvent, or carrier fluid, smells like ethanol (in the Hylomar Blue). Says fuel resistant. http://hylomar.com/hylomar-product-range/gasket-jointing-compounds/

The trick is that the Motoseal is not an RTV (like the Ultra or Supra Grey stuff). Instead, it is a solvent evaporation cure based sealant and not a silicone. Once the solvent evaporates, the rubbery solids remains are not particularly soluble in gasoline. According to the MSDS, it mostly uses the following: XYLENE 2-BUTOXYETHANOL ETHYL BENZENE If you can't find that brand name, there's got to be something within your shores that is similar. Finding it is the trick though.

Well worth the effort...

The white plug is an expansion reservoir. Opinions vary (use the search function) as to the usefulness of this object. It would be great to find a period correct replacement. Many people apparently plug the hole when it breaks off. See the attached picture for my solution.