Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Dadsun

  1. What year is yours? It has the orange blinker lenses. Was that a Euro vs US thing?
  2. Why are there so many of these (including mine) that have the rear plate redone in black?
  3. I love that lime-green-chartreuse color. Never been a fan of silver. I guess those 70s and 80s silver stock finishes that seemed to morph into car exema turned me off.
  4. I'd definitely take a dry run in this thread before I actually posted mine for sale.
  5. Well, turns out the pieces are there but pretty much disintegrated. Lol.
  6. Quite the paint job. Didn't even bother to take off the license plate. You can also see orange at bottom of the door jam.
  7. The Datsun Hunters out of Auburn, Georgia, have posted this one for sale on eBay. Thoughts? I have visited their shop, btw. 1970 240z restoration project.
  8. I have PM'd @dutchzcarguy. Just want to finish going through the boxes of old parts the original owner gave me to see if I have the originals. No luck so far,.so I plan to try to work something out with Mart.
  9. Ah, is this more what I should be aiming for as original? (The other 1973 z on BAT right now):
  10. Wow, interesting. Let me dig into this more for a day or so. I'll talk to the original owner and also see about pulling off the bumper. Will post more pics. See, here is a recent BAT post and this 1973 Z shows the bumpers coming all the way around to fill up the recess. So, this was either a Euro, or at some point Euro bumpers replaced originals?
  11. What am I missing here? Is it a piece of rubber moulding? Is the bumper I have too short? I bought this Z (1973 240z with 10/72 build date) from original owner a year ago and have worked my way out to the front and rear cosmetics. I see some Z's with bumpers that extend neatly into that cavity. Mine doesn't.
  12. My only play car I've had before this Z was a 2006 BMW 330ci convertible. Man, that thing was fun to drive. It was just impractical for that phase of family life. ...So then somehow I decided to get a 240z. 🙂
  13. On the Datsun grey discussion, so the front grill should be the same grey as the hubcaps and rear plate? Mine has been painted black, just like the rear plate.
  14. @jfa.series1, your suggestion to shorten that rod helped a lot. Thanks! See pic of new angle. I also swapped back to my original "pirate's hook" assembly since the one I recently acquired was at a more dramatic angle. Also put a little white lithium grease in some spots.
  15. Wow, great post. Meeting him in person would have been an honor. I still have the flat tops in a box. Maybe a restoration for another day. Did your rebuild them yourself?
  16. Is that Eye-Gor? Give him a sedagive...!
  17. I bought a couple of cans of this a few months back for the purpose. Anyone used it?
  18. I've been on the notifications for BAT for a while. Finally scratched the itch with my first 240z about a year ago. I bought it via Facebook marketplace from the original owner in Lafayette, Louisiana, about 1.5 hours from me. Still have the original title and receipts. It's a 1973 with build date of 10/72. So it apparently had the worst of the flat top carb iterations. 79K miles. He drove it maybe 3-4K the last 20 years. It is white with red interior, although the white is no longer stock Kilimanjaro white. It's a pearl white with a red hood stripe. I am finally driving it now tha
  19. No, it stays open. Revs up high immediately. Not good.
  20. Need some insight... So, the header and new exhaust are in. No leaks as far as I can detect! Sounds pretty good although I still have some carb tuning to get back to. But, I have an issue with the accelerator/throttle linkage. It is tight and requires me to push down fairly hard to get it moving. Which results in a big rev and jerking. I think it's that the two springs connected to the heat shield are too tight. See yellow arrow on pic. Any suggestions? And how do the carbs stay in idle if there is no heat shield and springs? Also, that connecting rod between th
  21. Ok, I'm back. Got the MSA header, then had Jet-Hot coat it, and also have the MSA performance exhaust system to tie it into. The thing I'm most giddy about today is successfully getting off all of the old mount studs. Spent time here and there over the last few weeks with PB Blaster, hammer taps, and good old vice grips. So, I'm ready to reassemble. My previous efforts here have used the bolts at the intake manifold, not all studs. Any tricks to assembling? I'm thinking I should start only with the studs shown to get the header and bottom of intake manifold in place and a lit
  22. That one on eBay shown as coming from Top End is the MSDSinc.com product (aka Marty mentioned earlier in this thread). Go to Marty's site instead if you want that one. You'll save $60-70 buying directly from him. He has a good reputation on here. I wound up going MSA's product over his but only because they have the exhaust-to-tail connection ready to go. Marty's part number related to that eBay item is HO-241, I think.
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.