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So yesterday was first run . Didn’t even bother to install the hood , bumper or even the mirrors . Hell- didn’t even wash off the dirt . All I can say is WOW - amazing power ! The grunt starts so early . Never got over 5k and only poked at WOT a coupe of times . Not used to breaking tires loose so easily . Only got 25 miles on it , but I was smiling after I got over initial anxiety . Today I look it over and check things so I can play tomorrow

If you are one of the people who understand pictures better than words, this should finally bring clarity to an often mis-understood subject of electrical current flow. Another way to look at this, is that VOLTS Is your undeniable drive to buy car parts, OHM’s is your wife doing her best to slow the purchases, and YOU are the AMPS, trying your best to buy stuff anyway!

That Camry was great in Memphis. It's stealthiness worked very well for our craft beer tour downtown. Ask our buddy.

So gang this has been driving me nucking futs!!!!! It keeps coming and going so I got down to business after homeschooling the kids today! I got a propane torch and unlit, I went around all the areas where it could possibly be leaking. Nothing! Then WD40 on the same areas. Nada! Then water mist sprayer and guess what? Zip! So next I got a length of 18mm ID rubber hose and listened around the carbs because the rear carb I thought was whistling loudly. Well both carbs are doing it and it was mainly at the mouth where the two small holes take air pressure to the piston. Hole 5 below. As I understand, SU carbs to make a high pitched sound without the air cleaner on. Next up, I took the domes off to see if anything obvious was amiss. All I could think of was that somehow the domes are leaking. I checked the bottom of the domes for flatness and found the rear carb in particular to be less than flat. So I got some 3mm closed cell foam sound deadening material and made a couple of gaskets. This made it way harder to centre the needles and pistons but a bit of patience and carefulness while tightening down did the trick. I went out to “buy some bread” and it’s a different car! The wobbly engine is a shed load smoother. The AFR that previously would not budge past 15 now goes 18+ on the overrun when in gear. The idle is sitting at a lean 16 and cruising steady throttle AfR is around 15-16. WOT when passed the reversion part of the range sits doggedly from 11.5-12.5, the latter at around 6.5k rpm. The rear wheels now squirm in 2nd at 4K rpm. So for now I am quietly confident the issue may have been resolved and will try to find a better solution with some plumbing rubber O rings.

Looks great. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Here's the link: https://losangeles.craigslist.org/sgv/pts/d/baldwin-park-datsun-face-mask/7112382574.html

A vacuum gauge will tell a lot diagnostic wise.

Thank you sir, you are too kind. The ZT carbs I have don’t have the thing you mentioned above. I forgot to mention that the idle appears to have dropped by just over a 100rpm too - a classic sign of air leaks. This problem has cost me a lot of £££ revisiting the ignition system as it had all the symptoms of a broken lead/plug/coil/cap/rotor etc, but was simply an air leak. She’s flying like a scolded cat now and I can’t be more pleased - so what will I do? Tinker even more and break it again. Why break the habit now? I do want to experiment with different needles (currently KD, soon to be MC) to see if I can better the reversion part of the curve. My excel modelling tells me I will get a better all round mix with MCs. More of that on the link below if you’re COVID bored. https://zclub.net/community/index.php?threads/su-carbs-will-work-perfectly-on-my-modified-l28-and-give-dcoes-a-run-for-their-money.25839/ BTW I really did buy bread ... [emoji13]

Well, I hope this isn’t the case but “hope” has never been a course of action that produces results. Life is beginning to return to more normal where I live. People have come to the conclusion, right or wrong that this “destroy the economy” cure is worse than the disease. We’ve had 3 deaths in my county and all were in their late 70’s and 80’s and had other morbidity issues. We had 24 cases total and everyone else but 4 have recovered completely. People’s lives are at risk from loss of income. We had 9 beach drownings last year, 3x Covid-19 deaths and we didn’t close the city and county and people didn’t loose their jobs and businesses. People are demanding the state open back up. Sorry, this post is probably for the Covid-19 thread which I have stopped following. How many lives is our $20 Billion economy worth? It’s a morbid thought but it’s real. I’ve done several aviation mishap investigations and the airlines put a $$ on you’re life. Most deaths in airline accidents are due to smoke inhalation but to put non-toxic materials in the interior of passenger jets is too expensive. They chose to spend less knowing it will mean more lost lives. I’m an optimist and I’m planning for success. Humanity can do incredible things when pushed to the brink. A breakthrough is possible. I’m plan on going to ZCon until we are closer to Sept. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The 3.54 and the wide ratio is the factory combination for the 75 to 78 280Z coupes. Here's one of many calculators out there if you want to see where you might end up. Tire size matters too. 5th gear would be 0.864 for the wide ratio. https://www.crawlpedia.com/rpm_gear_calculator.htm

At first glance it looks like some sort of kinky S&M bondage thing. Not an expert.

I bet Dave WM is older than you and he drove his Z from Orlando to Pikes Peak and back with a damaged timing chain guide. If you show up in a Camry you will have to hand over your man-card immediately before you can drink a beer. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It’s flux. I have always used it for prepping solder joints in all my electronics. Never had an issue if it’s cleaned properly afterwards. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Coolness! You've reached the point where the tools necessary for working on your motor are more like an electronics tech than an engine mechanic! What's in the little tub? Flux? That's not the acid based plumbing stuff, right?

Well most of that behavior is completely normal. The alternator output can (will) drop if the RPM's get too low. And if the alternator output drops far enough, the warning lights are supposed to come on. There are two things that concern me a little though, and that's why I was suggesting keeping an eye on things. 1) The alternator output might be dropping off at an RPM that's higher than normal which may be a sign that the alternator may be having some sort of internal problem. I don't know what the specs are, but on my car with an internally regulated alternator, my alternator output seems to be able to keep up easily at 700 RPM idle, even with the headlights and blower motor on. In other words, even with the headlights and blower motor on, I can let my RPMS drop to idle (700 RPM) and my warning lights don't come on. Might be a warning sign that yours do 2) The other thing that concerns me is the "latching" of either the VOLTS or BRAKE lights. Even if the alternator output does drop off at low RPM's, both those lights should go back out when you rev the engine. Every time. So if one or the other of those lights ever "latch" on, it might be another sign of impending doom for your current alternator. Makes me wonder if your brushes are worn to a nub and are making intermittent contact. Or your internal regulator may be failing. In my experience, things like this are warning signs that something is brewing. Might not be critical. Yet. But something's going on...

Well put, and while it would be neat to mess around with it, I don't think I'm going to be pushing that limit that far. Haha!

Pro way: hook a wide band mic ( piezo based) to your's engine car and run it through this software: https://www.vb-audio.com/Spectralissime/ get the car to knock and note the dominant frequency. Build a piezo sensor cavity tuned to this knock frequency done. Enthusiast Ways: If you want to do it in digital, use a general purpose piezo sensor and run the signal into a processor where you filter the knock frequency If you want to do analogue processing, send the sensor signal to a graphic EQ in your glove box and have only the knock frequency band raised. Send this to your retarding device..

Just bought this endoscope off Amazon to inspect my frame rails. If it’s there you’ll see it. Works great the lead can be formed to any angle you need. It also has a magnet and hook attachment .

From: https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/parts/nissan-knocking-sensor~22060-w1502.html Part Fitment for 22060-W1502: Nissan 280ZX 1980-1983 L28ET Nissan Pulsar NX 1983-1985 E15T From Wikipedia: The L28 is a 2,753 cc (2.8 L; 168.0 cu in) 12-valve engine. Bore and stroke is 86 mm × 79 mm (3.39 in × 3.11 in) The E15 displaces 1.5 L (1,488 cc) from 76 mm × 82 mm (2.99 in × 3.23 in) So much for the 1800 / bore circumference. Haha!

Thanks guys for the part number info. I'll poke around some and see what I can learn. I always thought knock sensors were piezoelectric elements. Hit it with a voltage, and it changes shape. Hit it with a change in shape, and it produces a voltage. And yes, they often (always?) have a resonant frequency. Was never a topic of study by me, but I'll dig a little. 1800 divided by bore circumference seems too easy. Maybe that works for old Volvos? Harvest the igniter piezo out of my grill lighter and bolt it to the side of my engine and measure the voltage out? Or I could just not get greedy with the timing values.

Well I am going to walk away with my tail between my legs swapped the bulb and it’s working with key on and when I start the car the light goes off.. so whatever happened on that drive burned that light out because it was working I guess that will remain a mystery.. thank you all for everyone’s help in this Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Here's another one from the same vendor as the Datsun mask: https://losangeles.craigslist.org/sgv/pts/d/baldwin-park-datsun-face-mask/7112382574.html

The mask goes nicely with the clothes, color-wise. The clothes’ patterns clash with each other, so, I suggest eliminating one or both of them.

I imagine it’s easy breathing through an embroidered logo. ?

I paid $1,500 for a mattress 2 years ago. Comfort is important to me now. Mine are original cars from the '70s. Fun for a 30 minute rip around here but not road cars. But I might, and I mean a light might, drive my 280. I could park next to you and do that "better by comparison" thing and you'd get flogged with lookers while I sit back and drink beers.

With the tube and the funnel you can just do a FBT. Fast Brain Transform.

Surprisingly, it PASSED! And well under spec in most metrics! See pic for test results. I’m interested in hearing interpretations of these results and what I should be looking at to address any issues. Specifically, it may be running a bit lean (which is ironic because last year I had a severe running rich problem). Going for a “Victory Lap” drive thru the canyons now.

They're saying that heavy smokers aren't getting as sick when they have the virus as much as non-smokers. I wonder if you can start smoking after you test positive? “Our cross-sectional study strongly suggests that those who smoke every day are much less likely to develop a symptomatic or severe infection with Sars-CoV-2 compared with the general population,” the Pitié-Salpêtrière report authors wrote. “The effect is significant. It divides the risk by five for ambulatory patients and by four for those admitted to hospital. We rarely see this in medicine,” it added.

Here's what I want for going back to work. I believe they're washable too? https://www.amazon.com/JewelryWe-Neopren-Motorcycle-Snowboard-Balaclava/dp/B086P94855/ref=zg_bs_3271034011_17?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=64NYE8Z8EKMNNPY2AEYA