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If you want throttle response, you won't get much by doing that, if any at all. These old efi systems don't like alterations much at all. It unbalances the components and the ecu can not compensate. It doesn't "learn and adjust" like newer sysrems can. Changing to a sport air filter or a larger exhaust system can help a bit because they are outside the components and could be restricting the flow, but extractors can change the scavenge of exhaust gases and that could have a negative effect. The easiest why to improve throttle response on these ols efi systems (without changing ecu, cam, head etc) is a lightened flywheel. The standard flywheel is 23lbs. If you get one that has been lightened to 16-18lbs or lighten the one you have, it will repond a lot more the the throttle. Or an aluminiun, but they are around 11lbs and that will reduce drivability a lot. Some people don't have any problem with the touchy throttle. You could match that to a 240mm clutch out of a 280Z(X) 2+2 or a 280ZX turbo clutch. That would gain a little weight over the standard clutch and would give you a heavy duty clucth with a light peddle. https://www.summitracing.com/search/brand/fidanza/year/1978/make/nissan/model/280z/part-type/flywheels?SortBy=Default&SortOrder=Default Not trying to be negative, but a lot of changes often make the engine sound better and we think that makes it faster, but it's often our mind playing tricks on us. That sounds fat cool, so it must be faster. If I change anything to my car, I go to a quiet road near home and do a simple test. I drive at at a certain speed, say 20 mph and give full throttle till it reaches 70 mph. Don't change gears during the test.. Have a friend (or my wife, if she is in the mood to waste time helping me on this thing) video the speedo and tacho and compare that with the results after you do the mods. If the time reduces, than you made an improvement. You can plot the speed versus time in excel and get a kind of power curve. Plot both before and after and you can see if it improved in certain areas of the rev curve.

Nothing to stop such a car being driven. That's what its for, and what it likes. In fact, this particular car is several steps on from being a factory-correct 'survivor' car and has been prepared - noting engine work by S20 specialists 'R Factory' - to be a trouble-free turnkey driver. I just hope it goes into the hands of somebody who will enjoy driving it whilst we are still allowed to do so... Personally I'd just like to see some of that glaringly-new 918 paint inside the car covered by more 432-R-correct satin black.

The 8" width wheels might be no problem for the fitment on the rear, but the front will have rubbing issues unless you plan on modifying the fenders for clearance. 7" wheels would be a better choice for the front, some use a staggerd wheel fitment of 7" on the front and 8" for the rear. Unless you are enamored with the 15" diameter wheels, 16x7 is a smarter choice from a greater tire selection standpoint. Many, including me run 16x7 all around with 205 55 16 tires with no issues on a moderately lowered car. This fitment is very close to the stock diameter wheels and tires.

Basically the whole inside apart from the rear deck area. Under the seats, along the inside of the sills and the whole area behind the dash. Spray painted, I believe.

Can we say we have three kinds of Z432-R ? #1 Factory Works race car ( everything special) #2 Private race car ( some works parts , and , mostly race option parts which can be purchased from “ Nissan sports corner “ ) #3 Plain stock car sold to the public ( car like displayed at Tokyo motor show , Ginza show room , engine / transmission/ differential/ wheels / steering / brakes / etc are the same as standard Z432 , race option parts were available for customers choice ) What we see today , 10- 15 Z432-Rs are existing, most of them are #3 car . I think I have seen only two private race cars , Mr. Katori and Mr. Terashima have it . Alan , have you ever seen #1 Factory Works race car in your life ? And should I say there would be # 1.5 ( halfway Works and Private ) race car ? Here is a scan from a Car graphic 12/1969 you see the plain Z432 which has a Z432-R dash board ( no cut away for the clock , blowers, glove box key etc ) with a standard steering wheel . Note the head rest is only for the drivers seat , rear strut support vinyl trim , and the JDM spec battery omitted its cover . No heater ! No inspection lamp at the right front strut tower . Kats

Hi Gavin , I don’t know the car has a true rally wheels , it seems to me it has replica ones because it is a very clean and neat appearance . Alan will tell us about it . I became old , Gavin . I turned 50 in last June , PS30-00001 was also born in June 1969 . And I am so jealous of Z432-R . But now way afford to Buy it . So I force myself to say “ I don’t want a R , no heater in a cold winter , no reclining for a long distance trip , their engine is nothing different from my standard Z432 ! “ But we know Mr . Takeuchi ( PS30-00187 ) takes his Z432-R almost everywhere , every month for a lot of car events . Probably his car is the most tripped car among Z432-R , even standard Z432 . His Z432-R ‘s S20 had a overhaul this year , probably third time in its life . Here is a good thread started by Alan . Kats

It's a difficult 1, I recently got another 240z that is very "patina" and it kind of drives me nuts that the paint is flawed on 1 hand but on the other I want to keep it that way. Not sure I'll be able to resist repainting it forever though.. But it helps that I'm kind of broke for the minute. Having said that, it's kind of what makes up a cars history, all those flaws, stone chips etc.. I recall seeing Nick Mason's Ferrari GTO and it still has the original seat material and all the wear and tear. I kind of think it makes sense on such cars. As with this 432-R. Can you show me examples of the areas that should be more satin black? Was it a brushed black paint like the front radiator support area?

I only had my fingers crushed once blowing the pistons out, now use a piece of wood between them and wrap the whole thing in an old T shirt before giving it air, it keeps flying pistons and brake fluid spray to a minimum.

If you are really interested in doing AC current measurements, use a loop tester. Chances are the inexpensive type like what I linked will work fine. Just remember to isolate the wires and only put the current loop around 1 wire, otherwise the fields will cancel out. The 117 offers non-contact detection. The low impedance features are nice but not must-have. If I was getting a new Fluke, I would be happy with either one.

I have counted 37 seconds after the I hit the starter before oil reached the cam, others have found similar times.

Purchase and successful assembly of this https://puralty.com/collections/mechanical-masterpieces/products/marble-coaster should be pre-requisite training for manual transmission rebuilding.

Okay, got a 4 speed opened up. Short answer about the fork interchange 4 vs 5 sp. No. However, the forks are the right "size" for the selector sleeve, and the rods fit through the fork holes correctly, BUT the roll pins are in different locations, both rotational and longitudinally. So you "could" interchange them IF you re-drill the rods for the pins in the right place. Simple right? They aren't hardened or anything, right? BTW the roll pins are smaller OD on the 4 speed. And since the 4 speed forks are steel, you "could" cut the rod part off and "move" it to the right place for the roll pin on the 5sp rod then weld it back on! Short answer no, but in a pinch, you know race day, car broke, final race of the season, if we could just finish the race, we get first overall, then yes, you can make it work..... You know the "C" type trans are more or less the same inside too.... Maybe their forks are backward compatible. You're going to make me take a C type apart, aren't you?

I like these pictures of 19, really captures the mood during the race.

Just FYI... The ZX ditributors with the E12-92 module can be used just like the ones with the E12-80 module. If you have or can get a ZX dizzy with the E12-92 it will work exactly like the E12-80. When you just use the C and B connectors leaving I & W disconnected gives the same timing curve as the E12-80 module. The E12-92 has been running just fine on my series 1 240Z since 2003. Another reference is in this thread. https://www.zcar.com/forum/10-70-83-tech-discussion-forum/116513-e12-92-e12-80-a.html

It looks like your spindle needs to be moved ~ a tooth CCW (~8 degrees) and that will help to give you more initial timing advance now that the damper is fixed.

Are these the 3 private race cars Kats?

I ran Megajolt on my previous Z because I wanted a stout, fully-programmable ignition system at a low cost as I was running triples for fueling. It's easy to setup, tune, and is rock solid. I highly recommend Megajolt if you're considering standalone ignition but want to keep the carbs. I'm running a 123ignition distributor on the current Z because I again wanted a fully-programmable ignition system but this time I also wanted to keep a period look. There is no other good reason to stay with a distributor if you're considering a DIS, IMO. The 123 is not as robust and high performing as Megajolt but it's as good as it gets for distributors.

OK Here are more detailed instructions on how to build one of these. Two files attached. One is the drawing with dimensions and a material list. The other is detailed assembly instructions with pictures. If you decide to build one, I suggest reading all the way through the instructions before starting. If anything is unclear, shoot me a message and I'll try to clear things up. Paul (z3meemer) Tube Straightener Fabrication Instructions.docx

You will have more success if you only start one thread...

Decent quality parts blow up diagrams for the FS5W71B with the included source URL's where you can go to get detailed part numbers for every little itty bitty piece, as well as a merged in part number listing from EuroDat. trans gear and shift drawing_Land.pdf

I understand the patina to a certain degree but when it starts to be really obscured, I think it would drive me nuts. Now mind you, I am looking at this from a drivers perspective. If its a garage queen time capsule, that's different. For me, though, I don't want a car I dont plan on driving. No matter what I paid.

Whens the auction? Sorry, I was thinking of this one https://bhauction.com/en/auction/tokyo-terrada-january/lots/432-r

Not much progress as i'm waiting on a few bits arriving and some time to do stuff. Got a v5 and Reg number which is ace. spent some time farting about deciding on wheel colour for its main wheels. Thought I had decided, however still not sure. Got a decent LHD dash. Got some tyres, managed to get them at a more sensible price than normal, i'm very pleased as they look so good, have amazing 'performance' reviews. https://classic.michelin.com/en/Classic-Tyre-range/MXV3-A 195/65/14. Also decided on a gearbox. Thanks to Alan T ; from a 1972 KGC10 model Skyline GT showroom option 5-speed. Ratios 3.321, 2.077, 1.308, 1.000, 0.864 and 3.382 reverse, It is an FS5C71-B flanged output transmission with Servo type synchros. Sold a load of spare bits to free up cash for all the above, met a couple of club members which was nice. Feels nice to de-clutter also. A few bits being made, so I can properly put the running gear in, might actually get an engine in it next year.

Inquiring minds must know. 4 speed tear down and comparison coming. I have enough. More donors for input shaft clutch alignment tools. Those plastic POS alignment tools that come with clutch kits are, well, not good enough.

Welcome from another ‘75 Z owner!

Looking good Jonesy. Welcome to the club.