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I found this early BRE article in an August 1970 Japanese Magazine. There are several shop photos showing a 240Z and 510 or Bluebird. Google translate says "Datsun 510 (Bluebird) will make adjustments to participate in the Mexican Road Race this year." BRE participated in the 1969 Mexican 1000 (later renamed the Baja 1000) with a RHD four door Bluebird (which he reacquired several years ago). I'm not sure if this is the same car being refurbished after the race or a new car. With the several months lead time involved in publishing magazines back then I would assume the photos would be from April 1970 or earlier. Google translate also says "Datsun Z (Fairlady Z) in production for racing this season." I wonder if this was the original #46 car in development? Per Road and Track magazine, BRE received their first 240Z in late January 1970 and it was one of the first 20 Z's to arrive in the US at the port of Los Angeles. I showed this article to Pete Brock and John Morton at their recent open house (hence the signatures) but unfortunately they didn't really have a lot of information to add. John did say he thought the #46 car was originally white from the factory though.

So they had 11 something in it and sold it for 12k which didn't include the 54 manhours... The english wheel is a must for making a good patch, but I suspect it takes some practice to get it right

No AAR will make starting a bit of a pita, you will have to prob feed it some throttle to give the extra air it needs, but not a huge deal. The stock FI is designed to operate with no user input, just turn the key to start with no other inputs. Then you can drive it immediately. With so much deleted it will require some more work on the driver to compensate (that is once you get the hooks for the temp sensor worked out). After you get it starting with some degree of reliability and correct mixtures, you can start acquiring the missing parts (like the AAR and a working CSV) to ease the work load on the operator.

I ordered new door seals from MSA about this time last year and they fit perfectly, good right out of the bag. Welcome back Sweaty.

Hi Mike, Great shots! I have not seen those before. Yes, I would agree that the Skyline 2000GT (GC10) shot is certainly from the 1969 show, as the Nissan show hostess uniforms changed every year. That's definitely the 1969 type show uniform and - indeed - the same young lady in both shots.

Looks familiar!

Apparently never heard of 3m panel bonding adhesives (or one of several other brands). Welding is SO yesterday..... (said the man who thinks EFI is something new and cool....)

Okay, here she is. This paint is called Cast Coat Iron DE1651 by Duplicolor. I think it looks pretty awesome. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Totally agree. Tacking on a panel that large and matching the roof curvature is probably not something easily accomplished by a beginner out behind the garage. Lots of grinding, smoothing, shaping, and hoping nothing warps from the welding heat would be quite a task. The Celica roof panel Ant worked on looked perfect when finished. I don't remember them saying, "Your results may vary.". Dennis

Good points, but I'm trying to stay as conservative as possible on the actual resale value. I think $25k is pretty reasonable and a very attractive price point. But like I said, I told the seller my buying price, if he wants to sell it to me he knows where I am. If he wants to sell to someone else and get more money, good for him I applaud his efforts.

Mike at Banzai said if I was willing to buy 100 of them, then he could get them...!

Thanks, Site...! I have talked to Mike at Banzai. He has the "blank" sticker...probably what I will end up with. I just thought I would throw it out there to see if anyone knew of a source for the 115. Seems like it's the only color NOT available. Just my luck...! Again, I appreciate you chiming in. I am also looking for 1973 rear bumper over rider rubber trim...

Banzai has them. https://www.zzxdatsun.com/catDecals.php

I don't mind that look. Sometimes the blue seems to through the palatte off

Ike this: Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well, after much consideration and debate with some car buffs in my neighborhood I think I’ve decided to depart from tradition. My car isn’t being brought back to stock anyway and I still have my stock block also that’s original. This car is not a Series 1, 240z where being 100% stock brings significant value to the car. The blue engine block is really an odd color and doesn’t match well with red (my car color is 110 Red). So I’m considering now painting the block a light graphite gray. It will go well with the blacks, aluminum and stainless parts. I’m not blinging out my engine. It will have black hoses and mostly a stock look except for an new fuel rail. I have a red powder coated valve cover already. Could look nice, but the blue would throw it all off (Superman colors red and blue) Here’s pic of my valve cover. I know Captain Obvious just threw up in shock for departing tradition...(“Gomenasia”). I promise it won’t be a gaudy rice burner look. Like I said if someday a run of the mill 77 actual is collectible (unlikely) then I break out the old motor and put it back in. That engine will remain a backup and tucked away in my garage in long term preservation. Waiting for the arrows coming my way! You can still change my mind. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I went back to my build thread and found I painted mine Pontiac Blue, sorry about that John. Also I thanked @Jarvo2 so he must have pointed me in that direction? Captain Obvious also busted my balls on my choice so don't feel lonely.

@Mike, While you're looking at such things... I used to get email notifications for things certain things (like if someone sent me a PM). I'm not getting those email notifications anymore and I can't figure out why. I took a look at my profile and everything looks in order. Last time I remember getting a notification was two or three weeks ago? Did something change then?

Garbage.

What I meant by destroy is more like “drive to death”. Without the skill or money to look after it, it will not last long in good shape.

The flip side of that is we have seen Z's trade over six figures and many cars in the 40's - 50's. That leaves a good bit of room to pay a metal man unless the car is stupid expensive

Matthew , Buy a 280z and learn how to fix anything on it that breaks! It will be old, it will break a little. No worries, you'll work on it. You will fix it. You will learn stuff. At some point one of your friends "NEW" cars will break too...perhaps a waterpump leaking, or serpentine belt adjuster gets weak. You will know how to fix that too. Working on cars is a very important character building experience, and it hones your critical thinking/debugging skills tremendously. You don't need to know how to rebuild a transmission to get through life. However, experienced in diagnosing car problems translates into better diagnostic skills with every problem you will run into in the future. Your future success in life depends on buying a 280Z now! ? Feel free to show this to your parents. Len

I just noticed this thread and wanted to give you a thumbs up on persevering. I don't have much to add as others have been giving you great advice. You're close now. As Zed said once you start feeding the ECU a real coolant temperature sensor resistance instead of an open connection, the fueling will change, but then you can begin to figure out all the other things that have been modified on the engine in the past to compensate. I will add that the AFM position is rotated but shouldn't make a big difference. There is a weight on the flap that is affected by gravity, but the governing force in the device is the spring. The weight helps as a smoothing function on abrupt air speed changes and the momentum gives a bit of overtravel when you tap the throttle. The overtravel is by design to give a bit of extra fuel and is akin to the "accelerator pump" on a carburetor. Perhaps I should test the flow in two orientations to see if I can detect any change in the AFM output. I also have some spare harnesses that you are missing that you are welcome to if needed. Realistically, you can make one faster, and the ones I have are old and connections would need to be cleaned anyway. Still the offer is there, just pm me your address if you think they will help. Len

A couple of photos from my collection. Alan, the 2000 GT is labeled as a 1971 (handwritten on the back), but I think that's an error and it was actually from the 1969 show. It seems to be the same model standing next to it as the 432. Do you agree?? -Mike

Ok, putting this thread to bed THANKS TO CARL BECK! @Carl Beck Mr. Hiroshi Iida: revealed in an interview with Nostalic Hero Magazine he started development of an in-line six cylinder engine in July of 1964. the purpose of this was to compete with Toyota, which already had a six cylinder engine in the Toyota Crown. to catch-up with Toyota Mr. Idia’s team, in the Large Engine Development section was given only one year to develop the L20 the L20 was introduced in Oct. of 1965 in the Cedric. the fastest way to develop an in-line six cylinder engine, was to use an existing 4 cylinder block and add two cylinders he liked the Mercedes Benz OHC and chain driven valve train - so he used that.

Hi @NVZEE, apologies for the delay I've been spending time with family this morning. I'm looking at it now. As far as the email thing, the system automatically locks your account if the email address comes back with an error (or bounce). This is likely what happened. I'll respond to your tickets now. But, all looks good because you're posting now... ? Mike

I don't know about the earlier ones, but the later tie rod ends aren't really "adjustable". That cup and spring ls a little bit of preload to try to keep things from rattling around in there, but the ball and socket joint itself is not adjustable and wears out. See the four weld 'dots" around the perimeter of the TRE? Back when the thing was first produced, they ran a threaded collar down against the ball inside until there was no slop. Then they threaded on the slotted "spanner" collar to lock it in place, and then they welded the whole thing together. The weld has good penetration and it joins the slotted collar, the main body, and the threaded collar all together: Problem is, the ball and socket joint inside wears as it moves around and eventually there will be slop in the tie rod end. As an academic exercise, I dissected a very loose ball joint donated by @Mike W a while ago. For your viewing pleasure... After you cut through the welds and crack the slotted collar loose: Then I cut through the welds locking the threaded collar into the main body. PITA because the heat from the welding operation and the rapid cooling spot hardened the HAZ: But after enough perseverance, I've got this, exposing the ball and socket joint inside the TRE body. You can see the dot of welded threaded material still remaining on the collar: And here's how the ball and socket joint works: It was educational, but the patient did not survive.

I have had wheels straighten and don't know of any kind of paperwork being signed for liability reasons