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hi Mark, I check the turns down on both carbs and the front was 2 3/4 turns down and the rear was 2 1/2 turns down . so I set both at 2 5/8 turns down and re balanced both carbs and it runs perfect now. I guess the previous setting was a 1/4 turn up lean and maybe that is why the weather was affecting the idle [some days richer when warmer and some days leaner when cooler] thanks again for the advise on checking with the choke as far as being to lean . also it looks like my floats are set perfect .kind regards

Thanks everyone, I really appreciate your joining. I realized I had to ask in a different way after seeing everyone’s reply . Like Alan said , seemed there is no correct answer in that choice . I had to specify “when” precisely and use proper words to explain what I was asking about . I always feel there were some key facts of “ how S30 was made “ and those facts were in progress in different people , different section , and they were existing in parallel before they were finally all united . What I was trying to do is ,I wanted everyone to know about the story behind S30 . I thought it is interesting in the part about Nissan executives . ( actually it was not his word , Mr. Uemura quoted from Mr. Hara ‘s book ) I have learned Mr. Hara was very important person who dedicated to making S30 in the early stage . And how do you say , he was a car guy . Mr. Hara also wrote a book , “ Datto San Kaihatsu no Omoide “ ( memories of development of DATSUN cars ) . So , Mr. Uemura wrote like this , ( I will be back later ) Kats

Ok , if your 240Z was born in at or before August 1972 , your car doesn’t need the splash pan . Kats

I don't want to spoil the fun too early, but the English language version of Uemura san's book doesn't include any such anecdote and Katayama's 'influence' on any aspect of development is put firmly back in its box. I'm temped to say "none of the above" in answer to Kats' question. One of the tricky aspects to Uemura san's book is that it pops back and forth between specifications and development points for planning and prototyping and it all starts to get a bit jumbled up. S20 (G8B) engine is specified after initial decision to use the L20 six cylinder engine ('L20A' updated variant didn't exist at that time...) so it cannot really be #3. Styling designers were styling designers, so they might well have wanted more power but it wasn't in their remit to specify it, so it cannot be #1. Uemura san says that L16 (4-cyl) and L20 (6-cyl) were the two initial engine choices - simultaneously - and the L16 was dropped because production was planned to take place alongside the Roadsters at the Hiratsuka plant. So the answer could be that both four and six cylinder engines were part of the plan from the beginning (true 'beginning' being a sightly nebulous point...) and that there was no "four to six" engine metamorphosis. It was four AND six, then just six. Three types of six...

OK. Here's my current plan after getting all of this advice: 1) I have a new fuel pressure gauge on the way. Confirm what the pressure really is. 2) I'm going to remove the fuel injectors and send them to be flow tested/cleaned. Figure out what I actually have. 3) I'm working on getting a charcoal canister and bracket. You were right, the new non-venting gas cap caused a vacuum in the gas tank without one. Trying to decide how much else to change out. Should I switch back to a stock fuel rail while I already have the injectors out? that way I can add cold start back into the system? May take me a while to get through this part, but I'm sure I'll have more questions once I get through some of this...

Soap box derby, here I come! ?

Thanks for the ideas on that I need to lube it up for sure. I got the latch adjusted and the gaps are starting to take shape now Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The splash pan may help with engine compartment temperatures, but I can testify from personal experience in Zilver that it helps keep the front end from floating at high speed. I believe it helps reduce turbulence (engine and firewall) in the front which results in decreased up-lift. Once the pan was installed, at speeds of 100+ steering became much more stabile.

Motorless, transmission-less, exhaust-less, dashless, fuel tank-less, etc etc. The upholsterers did a great job with the interior. Pics forthcoming.

280z tach guts are in a series 1 tach housing. Hopefully the negative trigger and my coil on plug works with the tach with a 2.2 ohm resistor

Ok figured out the stuck hood had to go under the car and use a screwdriver to get the latch off the catch it was stuck on. That was fun. I guess tomorrow I need to adjust the latch and the raised section. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ok so now I have another problem I can’t get my hood back open but I got the corners down using some very specifically applied body weight they are now resting on the rubber stoppers. There is just one area left that is raised up along the fenders so I will go back to that area with some wood and body weight once I figure out how to get my hood open. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You can use some blocks of wood between the center sections of the hood and the body and re-arch the hood. Remove the cowl first so you can push against the stronger inner structure. Massage it some then reinstall the cowl. The hoods are fairly workable. Be careful and make lots of tries. Don't crimp it!!! You could even use a 12"-16" block of 2x4 to push the corners of the hood down so you can apply even distributed pressure

The driver's side of the chain is tight. I found a few things on the internet stating that what I'm seeing is normal, but I feel better about the information one receives on here.

Listing includes good backstory on the racer: https://www.classiccarsforsale.co.uk/datsun/240z/315626

I always assumed that Toyota had set the benchmark with the 2000GT.

Japanese Racing White's Tech Tips. Woof, that's a mouthful of change. Will you do two blue stripes? I like stripes.

I say #2.

Hi , I don’t know much of it , as far as I understand is Fairlady-Z ( Japanese model ) series always have it . Not an optional item , it is a mandatory item for Fairlady-Z series even 240ZG . For export model , I don’t know. But except very early prototype used as an example for the service manual and 1973 model year car ( maybe at or later Aug 1972 ) in the US , they don’t have it . Please note the early one does not have holes like you see them on later one shown in the picture . Kats

Ol' Blue!!!!

I found some stack filters I like. They have three different size mesh strainers. I was told I can remove one and add foam if needed. They look amazing. But we’re expensive. I hope I like the contrast of these and the Jenvy stacks From PJmotorsports

I went for the Type 1 fibreglass for the 240Z since fitting the 240 valence is not possible with the lower 280Z frame. Looks neat with the modified 240Z grill.

The ad says it all. Fast cars, loose women, cigarettes, and Playboy. I miss the 1970s. Maybe that's why I have a '71 Z and a '70 Porsche. ? Dennis

Yeah not going to lie, it was pretty disheartening paying that plus having it shipped across the country to find it is basically has to go to the junk yard. I can take some pictures of the turbo if anyone is interested in more details about it. Going to have to wait a bit to try and gather more cash to try again, hopefully better informed and with more luck this time.

@DC_Mike I am so sorry for you!!! It is a little surprising that the rust is that extensive. I have done the same thing with a Copart car out of Miami. You could try to run the car back through Copart and recover some of the money. That is what I did. If you keep it, be sure and salvage all those vent parts in the hatch even if you don't use a vented hatch. They are getting rare and bring good money.

LOL, with the amount of internal frame rust damage I keep finding you more likely to see it at the local VA metal salvage once I'm done pulling anything useable off of it. Sad to say at this point it's probably work more as scrap metal than it is as an automobile. ?

Just FYI, I ended up purchasing this car for $4600 plus fees and having it shipped to VA. It has been an absolute nightmare ever since, lol. The rear hatch was rusted shut, and obviously, once I got it opened it revealed a totally rusted and destroyed rear sill part of the plate holder under neath. The rear deck and spare tire was in good shape but that was about where it stopped. The floors were rusted through, as expected, but the roof and roof pillars were all internally rusted, the rocker panels were all shot, someone did kind of a hack job putting a speaker box and amplifier in, and all in all it was pretty much a giant waste of money. Welp, lessons learned, looking for a better shell I can possible used the few parts that aren't garbage to get a start on. And btw I found the original sales article and evidently the turbo was from a Cessna (yep like the plane). Here are the things they DON'T show you in the Copart ad: