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Waking up and older thread, but I wanted to say thanks guys! I really appreciate the kind words. I had some SERIOUS health issues that came to a head shortly after the 2011 convention and have been gaining steam since. The story of the coins is this, I asked Karen Roeder to design a logo that would work on a banner and a coin. I gave her minimal requests, and she knocked everything out of the park! I had 350 gold plated and engraved coins made for three Uses, 1) As a thank you and to show my appreciation for my local crew(coins 1-20) the next set was as part of the award for the Car Show,and the last set was made up with the model name of the cars(S30, 240Z 260Z, 280Z S130, 280ZX, Z31 300Z, Z32, 300zx...) to sell in the auction. I had extras after the convention, and I started selling off my 35 years of collected NOS parts, I thought, why not share them with enthusiasts, so when someone bought something indicative of a proper restoration I put one in the package...if I sold something oversees, I put one in the package...I still have a few left, and I have been considering what to replace them with as I ramp up to selling off the last of my parts, and a few surprise pieces... I kept 3 coins for me #1 and I had one made with HLS30, and one with Z32C for me. Yes, I am ZconSavannah GA on Facebook, and will be posting more here in the coming months!

Hemmings Article SCARAB - - https://www.hemmings.com/blog/2019/08/16/scarab-reunion-creator-brian-morrow-reunited-with-the-first-scarab-a-car-he-sold-to-save-his-company/?refer=news&utm_source=edaily&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=2019-08-16 Carl B.

My restoration is finally finished. Now sitting in the show room at Robert's Automotive in Springfield, Illinois. 1981 280ZX Grand Luxury Edition, Manufactured September 1980. I drove it off the car lot on January 12, 1981. Features: Engine rebuild, original paint, original carpet and seats, re-upolstered interior and headliner, re-plated cadmium engine parts and restored wheels. I haven't driven it for almost 24 years. Original miles 25,536 and I have all documentation to back that up. I paid the ultimate price for NOT driving it - an entire engine rebuild. Everything works except the status display in the center of the instrument cluster. (See photo) Need to figure how to trouble shoot the status display. Needless to say I'm excited. I will be able to take it home before the end of next week. Still needs to have the air conditioning system re-charged.

A fellow on FB (Mark Shep) just posted a quick article about how he replace his choke cable sheath and core wire. He showed poictures of what he had done and he gave us the URL of the company he found that supplied the wire and sheath. Just had a quick look, seems that have quite a bit of inventory. Should be useful to use in the future. http://www.controlcables.com/ He measured the stock sheath and told them what he needed and they set him up, so we don't have specific part numbers but now we have another vendor to somehow remember.

I thought this was impressive. The 'Main Street America' car show sponsored by the Corvette Owners Club of San Diego was held last weekend at Sea Port Village. Probably close to 300 cars there. Taking first place in the 60-70's modified class was this 240Z. Yes, he was in the same group as the Vette's, Camaro's and Mustangs. Incredible. I had my roadster at this show about 5 years ago and it was pretty much ignored as it is primarily an American car show. Nice to see the Z's getting some attention. Pics below are from cars final build at Miguel's shop, paint by Miguel of course.

Only 77-78 windows work. The entire window, regulator and guide tracks are different for these years than earlier ones. I have a couple of spares if worst comes to worst if you can't find any closer.

Look for a leak at the blade area. You're looking for something causes a pressure imbalance at the blade edge.

Rio24, after viewing your video, I don't think the issue is the rod linkage. It looks like you might have an issue with your middle carb throttle plate sticking open, as you are not connected to anything and the sticking is occurring. I would take the carb off and look at the back side to see if the plate sticks open on its own. I have had to replace a throttle plate before because it was not flat and it kept sticking. Not sure if that is your issue, but the video looks like it might be.

Looks like I got lucky. After cleaning many electrical connections, along with fiddling with vacuum hose line connections, i have got the car running pretty good. over the last three days, ive put a few hours of driving around the neighborhood and cant get it to die. Still experiencing a slight skip under heavy heavy acceleration, but i am glad it is much better than it was. Now its time to pack up and head to college, returning to the project over winter break. thank you all for the help

Everything looks good the rod is a little bent from all my hammering but nothing I can’t straighten. The little arm where the bolt goes through does have a little damage from the drill but it’s not on the rod side so I don’t think it will affect use. I have another bolt arriving Tuesday so I will know then. The slot on the rod where the bolt locks into is also fine Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hahaha only 25! I've tired many different springs and placement if them. Even up to 3 spring and still doesn't absolutely fix this issue or the pedal is too tough to modulate. Thanks for you help. The problem is beyond springs. I ordered new linkage as someone else recommended. Hopefully that will do. I will upload thoes video on YouTube and post it here for you. I want you to see what im talking about @Zed Head

View Advert 240Z Sidemarker Light Set Refurbished set of front and rear sidemarker lights for a 240Z. These are the OE IKI 5004 series lenses, bodies, and rubber mounts – not the cheapo aftermarket stuff from China. The lenses have been cleaned and polished to a high shine, free of scratches. The stainless frames have been buffed to a bright finish. Bullet connectors have been replaced as required. The wiring on the front lights is covered in new protective shrinkwrap. The bodies on the front lights are original finish with no rust or damage, the bodies for the rear set have been freshly replated. The rubber boots on the front lights are the later style to protect against corrosion. Mounting screws and bulbs are included. The lights can be used on later model S30’s but may require different connectors. These lights are ready to install and are being sold only as a complete set. $175 includes standard shipping within CONUS. Payment via PayPal, PM if interested, thanks. Advertiser jfa.series1 Date 08/17/2019 Price $175.00 Category Parts for Sale

Rio24, I just purchased some of those parts; the 16"-3/8" rod, 2-3/8" female rod ends, 2-3/8" end links, and 2 male adapters to secure the 3/8" rod ends to the smaller openings on the Cannon intake. The kit has some redundant pieces that I don't need. My issue is the 5/16" rod having binding issues with the 3 rod end set up (trouble getting the 3 rod ends to align correctly), which seems to be a common issue with the Cannon intake manifold. Rather than upgrade to a different intake, I am going to beef up the 5/16" rod to a 3/8" rod, and reduce the 3 rod ends to just 2, thus making the linkage smoother and reduce the binding problem.

Somebody's night stand?

Sounds like you just need stronger/more return springs.

https://www.huffingtonpost.ca/entry/dildo-newfoundland-jimmy-kimmel_ca_5d52d26ce4b0cfeed1a3c11d

So glad to see your post Will. I consider you a giant among the "old guard" CZCC posters that were the early inspiration for me to follow. You, 26thZ, Bambikiller, Enrique, Beandip, Arne----you know the crew I refer to. High hopes that your health issues improve and that we hear from you more often. It would really be special to meet you and extend a handshake in Nashville next year! All the Best to you Will! Zup

That is why $80 to fix the linkage is a better option to begin with, Zed Head, I agree it doesn't make sense to throw big money at it, if you don't have to!

No offense intended to the guys with the problem but buying a new manifold to fix a linkage problem makes little sense. There are three throttle blades and linkage to make them work together. If the blades aren't sticking it's the linkage. If a new manifold works it's because it came with new linkage.

That tells you that the binding is at the throttle linage on the manifold, not at the cable or the pedal. You can extend the the thought process and push on the linkage with your finger. Open the hood and poke around and you'll probably realize something. Your picture shows that you have quite a bit of slack in your cable. Seems like a good tune of the overall system might help. Lots of adjustable bits there.

Rio24, I have been told that the 5/16" rod that comes with the intake is not as good as the 3/8" stainless steel rod that Pierce Manifold sells. You may have removed the center post, but still used the smaller (thinner) rod and that doesn't work as well, am told. I am also getting sticking even with the cable linkage.

Charles, Yes - I'd like the cap if available, thanks for thinking of me. It would be a better set with the mounting ring and three small screws. I'm going to contact the OP to see if he might pull some other stuff. Jim

So the old Z sent the vettes home? Great. I have been waiting on this day for 40 years.

I will do if Blue promises he doesn’t forget where he picks up those pictures ? It must be cheap to digitized . I love both , and I need both to enjoy my life . Z was first I fell in love. But now I can’t figure which comes first. Kats

I should have also mentioned that a very limited number of hard cover editions of the book were also printed. The hardcover versions were intended for Scarab owners as a companion to their cars. Brian Morrow has about 20 copies left and would be happy to sign them for anyone interested. Unfortunately, because of the small print quantity, the printing cost was quite high. These are available at his cost of $100 each to anyone interested in a collectible for their Z library. Books come shrink wrapped (unless you'd like them signed) and have a full-wrap paper jacket over a black cloth cover with gold foil stamping on the cover and spine.