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Hey guys, Why are we talking about replacing the clutch. His problem is the clutch does not disengage properly. If it was slipping, then I would suspect the clutch. A list of things that can cause a dragging clutch - Clutch master cylinder push-rod wear and adjustment. - Slave cylinder push-rod wear and adjustment. You should have the adjustable push-rod type with the return spring. - Worn out master cylinder and/or slave cylinder rubbers. The slave cylinder you should see leaking fluid at thr push-rod. If the primary piston cup in the master cylinder is leaking. It will leak fluid back to the master cylinder resiviour and the clutch will loose travel. You will notice this in 1st and reverse firstly because they are standing start applications. You can check this by depressing the clutch peddle and holding it on the floor while someone watches the slave cylinder push-rod. If the clutch fork slowly returns then you have a laeking primary rubber cup in the master cylinder. Other things that will cause a dragging clutch and require removing the transmission to inspect and replace. They are not so common, but do occur occasionally. - Dry spigot beering in the end of the crankshaft. A very dry spigot bearing will drag the input shaft with the crankshaft. - Dry or rusted input shaft splines. When the pressure plate disengages the clutch plate, the clutch plate moves along the splines so to release it from the flywheel. If the clutch plates movement is restricted, it will disengage fully from the pressure plate, but not from the flywheel. Don't just assume its right. Follow the FSM for adjusting the master and slave cylinder push-rods. I posted the position of the clutcgh fork in relaxed and depressed positions. I can't remember of the top of my head and I'm not really closeby to civilisation atm. Ill try to find them. That would confirm the correct travel and the collar is correct or not. I would be doing these checks first before taking any steps to remove the transmission. Ok, I found the other thread.

A pic of the original door and the new one: All the new Delta regrind rockers back in place! And a shot of the new TTT outer tie rod bolts!

So my hovel was graced with the presence and presents of zKars today. Jim showed up with my replacement door shells along with a couple other bits and pieces. He also lent his hand showing me the proper way to reinstall the rockers in the E88 head! Thanks Jim! Here he is spending some quality time with his old stroker. And here he is enjoying a nice ocean aged whiskey... smooth!

do yourself a favor, if not done already, check the waterpump. look for any weeping of water, and play in the pump shaft. When it goes its no fun and you risk overheating the head. IF it needs replacement read a LOT about removing the bolts and how to try and avoid breaking them.

Sounds like a sticky thermostat. Mine used to fluctuate, even though it tested okay in hot water. A new Nissan unit gave a steady temperature reading.

Greetings fellow member of the Jim club. Me thinks the material used is very similar to the bargain basement style exhaust hanger parts I see at the local auto parts emporium. Now I think the original parts come with and installed on (ie threaded through), a new OEM cable, which makes it a bit tricky to apply "new" ones should you be able to fabricate or buy some. I may have a slightly used cable with these items still attached for reference.

That is strange indeed, typically one side or the other will be darker. Some other thoughts and forgive me if it’s already been said. Let’s eliminate potential electrical issues: 1. Swap 3 and 4 with say 1 and 6 and see if you get the same effect. Could it be a faulty pair of plugs? And are the gaps the same (although that shouldn’t make a huge difference). 2. If 3&4 soot up again, try rotating HT leads from other plugs that aren’t sooted up. 3. Check the 3&4 electrodes on the inside of the distributor cap to ensure they are not corroded. Looking at the mechanical side: 3. Have you checked manifold gasket for leaks? 4. Have you checked valve clearances lately? 5. On your comp test, what was the difference between 3&4 and the other cyls? 3&4 aside your plugs look a little too hot to me, how have you adjusted your mix? I have found that idling for a long time with a lean mix on a hot day, the car starts to misfire as if there is an electric problem, but it’s a heat problem.

When I got my clutch working (after sitting for 28 years), I had a lot of travel in the pedal as well before it starting to move the slave cylinder push rod. It turned out that the clevis pin that connects the clutch pedal to the master clutch cylinder was all worn out. Instead of being a nice round hole it was worn down to a long oblong/oval hole. In addition, the clevis pin that fit into that hole was worn completely down to almost nothing. I removed the clutch pedal and took it to a shop to have the ovalled out hole welded up and re-drilled. Then I replaced the clevis pin with a new one. Mine was worn so badly that I was probably losing half the pedal travel before it actually starting to move the master cylinder.

That's thermostat opening, not sure you have a problem. Get or borrow an infrared temp guns and see what the actual temp is.

I actually got lucky and was able to pull the panel out a little bit and very carefully maneuver the plate in to position. Everything looks and functions as it should except the small light in the radio is not coming on now. When I bench tested it the light worked but now it doesn't. Oh well, if I pull it again I will replace it. Here is a picture of what success looks like! Thank you again for everyone's help.