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George: No matter how long it took - it looks like a really great result. Certainly worth the effort, with something less than 3% of Datsun 240Z's being RHD and now in their 50th Year.. That is a rare and very desirable example. Finish it up and enjoy it, get it out for everyone to see. Today there are a couple of generations of people that have never seen one on the road.

If you're up for making your own, those nylon spacers are available in plenty of common nominal inside diameters for imperial bolt sizes and in varying heights/lengths at Lowe's in their hardware/project drawer aisle. They may even have metric too, but I can't remember. 27 bucks isn't a terrible price to pay for the piece if you don't want to d*** around making templates and wasting cut-off wheels and running around to get hardware... though the product for sale could have been designed a little neater (just me nitpicking).

Thought I would post because I had some interest from some people asking if I would make these. Due to the amount of time and labor involved, it wasnt worth my while to make these for a those that asked. After all I have a project to work on of my own and other things I could be doing besides work . These inner rocker panels are replacements for a 240z as the pictures attached are those of my car. I am unsure about the 260z and 280z whether these would fit them or not. Please chime in if your certain to let others know. If enough people are seriously interested in getting these from me then please post up or send me a PM, if not then I guess this thread will be closed down. The inner rocker panels are constructed from 18g cold rolled sheet (CRS) metal which is just a tad thicker than the factory material (at least on my 240z). I use cold rolled as it is supposed to be a bit stronger than hot rolled and cold rolled has a smoother finish. These are not an exact match to the factory panels but close enough. The seat belt mounting plate is made from 1/8" (CRS) and the nut for the seat belt bolt is a harden Nut. If your Z suffers from rotted out rusted inner rockers then these panels would be great, save you the hassle of trying to do a questionable patch job... Price wise as of now looking at $380.00 shipped anywhere in the USA (out of Country may be subject to higher shipping rate) mainly because shipping a long box (60") like this is a bit pricey, but this is based on estimated shipping cost with Fedex, actual cost may differ which means if its lower then I can knock the price down. boxes and packaging material will be at my expense to ensure the panels arrive safely. Please note I do not have any already made except the ones pictured which are for my car. Let me know what you think and feel free to ask questions. I will keep this updated when it comes time to submit an order, if it gets this far. Thanks for Look!

I had the car out on Wednesday night for a few more tweaks before the weekend. The induction pipework was a bit too blingy for my liking and didn't match the stainless bend, so I removed it and gave it a matt brushed finish to tone it down a bit. I'm sure this will be a bit marmite.... I've also repositioned all of the jubilee clips to hide the tensioners etc to tidy up the bay. Overall I'm very pleased with the results, looks more of a finished product in my eyes now. After recently finding another dodgy wheel nut I got fed up of all of the issues I've had with several of them and have now replaced the entire set with new steel wheel nuts for peace of mind. More boring little bits but I removed the choke baseplate to clean it up and fit some rubber feet to remove a vibration/rattle which had been driving me mad while driving and did the tyre pressures thinking of the weekend. Car should be all good for Saturday and now has rolling road time booked for next Wednesday evening to check where we're at, I'm hoping to give the car a quick service with oil and plugs beforehand as well just to make sure we're in good order. In the meantime though, bring on the weekend! IMG_9949 by Mark Woodrow, on Flickr IMG_9952 by Mark Woodrow, on Flickr

Sure you are, at least I have done many times and Mike has never spanked me yet. http://www.datsunzparts.com/rockpanels.html

72 doesn’t have a relay. The harness goes from the blower motor over to the radio and other connections in clouding the ground.

I lived there last 4 years in the Biarritz area... will be going back in a year or so and would like to start looking at getting into a car now that I can export as a personal vehicle. thanks.

@Lazeum I can't get to the members map from my phone? but see if you can and see the other French owners. They can tell you.

More updates While trouble shooting an alternator wiring problem on my 510 with yes, another similar GM alternator, wired as two wire, I have more to add on the subject. First, I ran across another excellent reference web page that does an excellent job of describing the workings of all the GM alternator variants, and how to properly wire them. https://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/Wiring/Part2/#onewire My initial suggestion/recommendation about using the hotrod oriented 1 wire alternators from Mopac, has, shall we say, 'evolved' I've had consistent problems with them as they have a non-insignicant amount of current drain when the car is off. They kill the battery within about a week if you don't drive it. Hence I've moved on to the two wire style, where you supply a switched +12 wire to the alternator on the "F" or "I" terminal (right next to 'S') (see above link for very good explanation). The above reference alternator has the same case style as the original nissan alternator, so you don't have to modify your mounting base. A little spacing is about all you need to do. All I have to do is remember which car it's for. I'm pretty sure its a CS130 from the 88-89 Eagle Premier. 100 amp, internal regulator of course. You have to put your pulley on it, they come with a serpintine belt pulley. These alternators have a four wire socket that accepts a plug. You can get a pico 5657-bp pigtail from your auto parts store or get one from the wrecker. https://picocanada.com/en/view_product/5657-BP According the above link, the common practise of just jumpering the "I" (or F) terminal directly to the output terminal to excite the alternator is not the best idea. Read the details in the pirate4x4 link and you'll understand why.

I think you could claim it as the last $1,500 240Z and hang it from the ceiling like a pinata.

I don't know! I'm sorry for that too. What I'm remembering, at the moment, is @jalexquijano found that somewhere on the internet for the fuel rail. He has some hot restart issues. Could be an old Redline "Datsun" cover? Looks similar to the milling and filter material on some triple 40 webers I had. When I get back to my lap top I'll dig further. Does this look familiar @Zedyone_kenobi?

Hey Just figured id update everyone that might not know already. But just noticed that Charlie at Zedd Findings is now offering the Inner Rocker Panels. I dont think I am allowed to post up links, but if you check out his website they are on there on their own link/tab. Hopefully what he offers will be a great alternative to mine. My apologies to those that tried to buy from me, just unfortunate that I dont have a lot of time to spend on make parts. Hopefully ill be able to make some more soon.

Yes, decided to go with the one from zcardepot. It's more cost and time effective. Thanks for the feedback.

Looks pretty straight, unwrecked. The gaps are good. It's close to I-5 (The 5 in California) so easy to transport. No title so have to know your state's lost title laws. A person could probably have it transported for $500 and be in it for $2000 at their garage.

That beautiful 240 will grow on you. I never drive my 280 anymore. Now I understand why Harley guys like the hardtail bikes so much.

I'll second what Careless said here. Art Singer in Rio Rancho, NM is the person responsible for bringing this to market in the numbers seen now. It used to be you made your own, the basic pattern and idea has been around for a long time. Art started making them several years ago and selling them on E-bay. Al Allen (California Datsun) offers them now for an inflated price. Art doesn't care, as Art sells them to him. Art will be at Zcon2019 in Branson. What a character! He reminds me so much of Mario----as in the video game by the same name. When you see Art at Branson, yell out loudly--- Art never pays! It's a inside joke among the "repeat offenders" at Branson. I'll clue you in when I see you there. Art is also--more importantly-- the graphic designer, chief editor, be-all, do-all of ZCCM. (Z Car Club Magazine) ZCCM is a bi-monthly publication dedicated to the Z, loaded with very good photography and interesting story bios of Z car owners and their cars. Available on-line (6 issues) and as hardcopy (3 issues). www.zcarclubmag.com This is the end of my "in-thread" commercial for Art-----now back to your regularly scheduled topic programming.

A few more pics. I know my wife is glad we don’t have more garage space. Huge contrast driving the 280 vs the 240. 280 is a much more refined car.

John Morton was driving the recreated BRE 240Z again. I got to hang out with the team on Wednesday, Thursday, and Friday. On Saturday and Sunday, I spent time with my family at the track. Here are links to my Google Photo Albums: Wednesday - https://photos.app.goo.gl/xZnwaKkdb6aKxSFq7 Thursday - https://photos.app.goo.gl/Xr9SE5rH4th42CP56 Friday - https://photos.app.goo.gl/F4nihaZ5ZUw7ME1f8 Saturday - https://photos.app.goo.gl/Kef8DP4QmWmeBref8 Sunday - https://photos.app.goo.gl/VxgzchtwdDmRiq3X9 "...and then this kid asks me if I'm Horst Kwech" See this for reference if you don't get the joke:

An irreverent but exceedingly popular form of racing of late...

Finished up all the big stuff.

Wow. Had not seen this thread in a while. Amazing work!

Ahhhh, the swiss cheese car! Bless you for taking this on! I went back and looked at the first pages of pictures. The car has come a long way and looks great! There were a lot of folks saying five years ago you would never recoup your investment but I think that math has changed in the last 5 years. I seriously think these super low numbers cars are, or will be soon, 6 figure cars. Congrats on getting through paint. Now the fun starts

I don't know what your experience is but the repair on your blue 70/240z will be considerably more involved than just replacing the quarter panel and if not done right the first time will really bring down the value of the car. The damaged area extends from the D/S rear corner diagonally across to the P/S B pillar just behind the door and may have bent the subframe that the P/S rear suspension hangs from. It's a big job that really should be handled by a body shop that specializes in frame straightening, some of the newest systems have racks that can bring a car back to spec with in a couple of millimeters. Other than the rear corner damage the car is a gem just waiting to be polished, if the engine matches and you weren't on the other side of the continent I would give you $5,500 without hesitation, it has great potential.

if time permits, ill fix the quarter and throw a nice paint job, put some nice clean interior and finish it off and sell it for much more than that. i have to agree that i would rather stay away from rust than a simple quarter panel replacement. it just takes time and some money. the car is very solid. reason as to why i purchased it.

I wouldn't be surprised if the car was worth $5,500. If it is truly rust free, I would rather deal with the quarter damage than lots of rusty metal!

@dat240z71 What is the point of that story? Sounds like you are not interested and told him! Did I miss something?

Thanks Robert. Hopefully your situation wont be as bad as we are thinking. It really is a lot of work repairing the rockers. I should be around when time comes if you do indeed need inner rockers. So I am thinking about offering Seat brackets, floor pans and maybe floor rails along with my inner rocker panels. As of now, I am wanting to offer seat brackets first. Pictures below are what the seat brackets will most likely look like. The pictures are from my 240z. I am not sure on price yet. These will be made from 16g CRS. which is a tad bit thicker than stock or same thickness. I may offer the first set of seat brackets to someone for a killer deal just because I need to know how well the fitment is as I dont know anyone local or have another 240z to test fit and my car is already installed. PM if you are interested in this offer. Below are pictures of what the Floor pans will kind of look like. Above are some pictures as well. I want to first get the tunnel side of the pans figured out. These will be made from 20g CRS which is the same thickness as stock. 18G is to thick to match up with the stock thickness of the tunnel. The pans will also have the stepped lip on the front and rear just like factory. I also need to figure out the little indention/pocket on the side towards the rocker panels. Not sure what it is but seems like the it came factory with it. Let me know if this would be wanted products. Thanks, Prospect-D https://bwpeck8.wixsite.com/prospect-d

Hey Z members, Just wanted to let you all know that I have 1 set of inner rocker panels available. made two sets for two customers, decided to make an extra, below are pictures of the general process that goes into making these. The parts at the end get coated with Bloxide rust preventative weldable primer to keep from rusting during shipping and before installation. You have the option to purchase the panels with what I call tie in plates/support plates. There is a front end plate and a rear end plate on each passenger and driver side. The front plates I am selling for $25 each and the rear plates for $10 each, so a total of $70 for all four corners. The fronts are more pricey due to it being larger and containing more dimple holes and beads. These are what the outer and inner rocker panels mostly weld on to. I Do not have any pictures to show of it, but will post some up later of what they look like. chances are that if your replacing your rocker panels, the tie in plates will be rotter as well, great chance to weld in some new ones.