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Everything posted by Careless

  1. NissanPartsDeal is not a website that is based on any actual in-stock inventory. It's quite literally a dealership that is listing the Nissan parts catalog online, and all they do is order it for you from their parts department. If you buy from site like ToyotaPartsDeal.com, which is running the same catalog management database and user interface (and appears on the footer of NissanPartsDeal, because they're linked through a software company/entity somehow), you will most likely get an invoice from an actual Nissan Dealership. In the case of ToyotaPartsDeal, it's McGeorge Toyota
  2. The photos you see there are of my spindle pin tool being used on one of Chris' spindle pins. Think back to all the spindle pin photos you've witnessed, and you may recall that the actual part that goes through the spindle bore is not particularly rusted to sh*t. It's always the bushing collars that hang up the pin on both ends (or the pin is just tweaked a little- in which case; god help you). It's pretty much the same on any car that has bushing collars in an old bushing pod. That's almost always where the bolt is seized. When I used this tool on the car I made it for, I had to hea
  3. Yeah that's the stuff. Couldn't see the wrap detail in the photo I was looking at when zoomed in. I thought you were using the rubber with the mesh reinforcement that makes it look somewhat like diamond pleated rubber (if that makes any sense). I don't really have a link for the hose I used because I just went to the hose supplier's sales counter, but it's identical to what you got there from cohline, just that Newco has (or had) a ridiculous minimum order price for Canadian buyers so I didn't buy from them, nor do I recommend anyone buy from them for that exact reason. It's a poor bus
  4. lookin' damn noice! ? for your fuel filter to fuel pump hose, and the hose that connects the rail that wraps around the rocker cover to the carbs, you can get that spiral wrapped rubber hose that looks damn near identical to the OEM stuff by going to a hydraulic hose outfitter and asking for gasoline safe hose that has no wire reinforcement. best to bring a sample with you. there are two sizes on the car (forgetting right now, but i think 5/16 and 1/4), and both of them are usually stocked as they are common agricultural and industrial sizes. they should have white lettering painted on
  5. If you're up for making your own, those nylon spacers are available in plenty of common nominal inside diameters for imperial bolt sizes and in varying heights/lengths at Lowe's in their hardware/project drawer aisle. They may even have metric too, but I can't remember. 27 bucks isn't a terrible price to pay for the piece if you don't want to d*** around making templates and wasting cut-off wheels and running around to get hardware... though the product for sale could have been designed a little neater (just me nitpicking).
  6. I did the same for the harness I redid, but I did it with all the wires so I didn't have to heat or stretch the boot. I haaaave done that in the passed, but I find it's best to do it near a sink so you can cool the rubber down if you get it too hot too quickly. it will "freeze" it in its current shape and not let it get too goopy. But on the Z that wasn't a problem for me because de-pinning the connectors on these is so easy if you are used to it. They're actually the easiest automotive connectors to de-pin across all makes and models. I also used the right width electrical tape instead o
  7. 1606 wheel face same as tail light garnish "chalkboard" finish when its cleaned up https://i.imgur.com/PrBZ0mm.jpg https://i.imgur.com/zUteuNL.jpg https://i.imgur.com/SqCfi1q.jpg 182 wheel face. dirty, pitted, and rusted. you can see some of the overspray shown in some of the other photos posted earlier in this thread. https://i.imgur.com/ATVYLAc.jpg 7214 spare and "NOS" spare with Bridgestone RD150 (not sure if actually NOS or not, but it sure looked like it) https://i.imgur.com/JL9yxoI.jpg https://i.imgur.com/KPbm9hv.jpg
  8. that paint colour on the face seems to be a close match to that of the tail light garnish from the #162 and the original spare from the 72 that was on hand as well, which I referred to as "chalkboard black". Rustoleum actually makes a chalkboard black colour which is close, but it is not meant for exterior applications or road vehicle use as it's not very durable against the elements. I never dismounted the tire as it was 5" as you noted and did not match the 4.5"s from the 69 cars under restoration, so I am unsure if it was over sprayed as shown in the photo above, but it wouldn't surpri
  9. I'm late to the party, but just to expand on the idea; I actually swiped some RTV over the holes with my finger, let it cure, then tumbled it for a short while to remove any fine residual RTV on the face where I smeared the holes. The servo housing thickness was enough for the RTV to grab hold of and stay in place. Once plated, I picked the RTV plugs out, and picked the RTV around the threaded plunger hole that I smeared there as well to prevent acid and plating solution ingress from that area too. You can buy silicon tapered plugs that might fit just as well, but the cone shape is n
  10. To add to this thread link, the colour that I found the closest to the INSIDE (or majority of the wheel body colour, I guess) gray colour was actually Alumiblast from Seymour Paints, which is a popular "rebuilders aluminum" coating. All of the powder coated options I had spec'd out were far too glossy or had a shine to them that was not similar to the dull faux aluminum on the inside of the spare wheels in inventory. The only issue with this Alumiblast paint is that it is very easy to rub off with solvents. The benefit to this is that it actually makes it easy to clean up if you are s
  11. FWIW, if you have an extra megasquirt relay box, you can make the same CAN AM box with a bit of fiddling, but for the extra 30 dollars you get a more "Nissan focused" product from them, if you want to call it that. And you support small business. Win win, IMHO.
  12. yeah, the P.T. or Cone-lock nuts are deemed non-reversible, and thus non-reusable if removed... Jam-nuts or nylocks are a much better replacement. Thouuuuuuuuuuuuugh I usually test the PT nuts for larger threads like that by using a stubby wrench. If it's very hard to turn with my palm as the only way to make use of what little leverage there is, I'll reuse them.
  13. regardless of bushing type, you should always do a bolt check after a few hundred miles. after installing poly bushings on the front and rear of my z31, the bolts definitely loosened up after a week of driving around.
  14. When I was with grannyknot in the garage and he was showing me this latest moderfication, I had mentioned that as well- but he brought up a good point. you could just loosen the nut on the bushing end and it will spin inside the bushing cup when it's being elongated or shortened. If it had a bracketed or cross bolted round bushing of some kind on both ends that required removal and refitting to adjust, then a turnbuckle would make more sense. I was thinking of my 88 Z31's tc rods and turnbuckles the whole time for some reason so it didn't dawn on me until he mentioned it. you would end up
  15. Chris, did you thread the side that was welded + turn it a few threads into the coupling nut or turn it down in diameter so it has a peg that slides partway into the coupling nut- or did you weld them face to face?
  16. I did the same thing with the lines/ you'll probably want to cap the lines off with rubber vacuum caps.
  17. did you happen to rock any of the valves side to side or manage to check the openings of the valve guides at all with a caliper or something to check stem clearance? I was wondering if the front 3 cylinders had poor valve guide clearance, which can contribute to a tiny bit of oil getting in even if the valve seals are new.
  18. In your photos of your quarter windows- the top-rear "corner" of the installed passenger side looks like the seal is folded in behind the corner piece. Looking at the '71 I have here, I don't even see the screw tabs, and there is no gap whatsoever- and the seal is even all the way around. Did you put the little rubber shims in that area to puff it up and get a good seal there? Perhaps your seal bunched up in the corner and now the window won't fully seat. Doesn't the interior panel kind of sneak over the tabs anyways, and but up close to the window to cover th
  19. RE: Quarter window install I was looking at photos of the two cars that are here... 1969 and 1970. I don't see any painting of the body contour/lip that holds the window frame in, though the tabs that the screws bolt through are not visible on the 1971 so they may be painted black on that year- that particular 1971 car has been painted at least once... is that something they did on the 71's or late 70's, perhaps- or it just a recommended thing to do for aesthetic reasons if anyone happens to take the windows off to replace the seals? Within the early 1970 pictu
  20. Are the holes on the long shim identical on the one side so that you can use another long one and just cut it a bit longer than the short one so it can be bent over the edge between the main cap and oil pump mount? In any case, I am glad you found out that what seemed to be the cause of the bearing failure was as apparent as it turned out to be and the shim seems like a dead give-away to me- that's a good thing IMHO! Having to rebuild an engine again sucks, but I'm sure you agree that not having a single clue as to why it f'd off in the first place sucks even more!
  21. IMHO- quite the contrary. if I were to count the number of cars I was under or half-way into when I said "How did someone get a pay-cheque for designing this?", I would say German cars top the list. Completely unnecessary parts with exaggerated importance in a lot of places. Most of their "afterthoughts" are the product of subsequent "overthoughts". If anyone would like to give me a good reason as to why Porsche would use self-tapping sheet metal screws to secure cam phasing solenoids to the cylinder heads on some of their more recent engines- I'd like to also know what time and day of the wee
  22. what did the previous guy actually do when he rebuilt the engine? just resurface the head and check the clearances and replace bits and pieces? any head work? for 1, 2, 3 oily cylinders- use flashlight in the intake and exhaust ports. check for oil or sludge build up on the valve stems or on the backs of the intake valves. perhaps leaking valve seals or worn valve guides. One thing i noticed in your head/block photos... that head gasket (whatever make it is)... before you reorder it or use the same style, have a look at what the OEM BMW one looks like. The block and head pattern for
  23. while that is physically true, the more important thing to keep in mind is the oiling priority of the engine. the technical service manual should have an arrow-drawn diagram in the engine lubrication or oil pump servicing chapter that shows what gets oil first... it's not the same for every v6 or i6 or v8, etc- even from the same manufacturer. they've all experimented a lot in the last 40 years. some dual overhead cam motors see oil at only one the cam first- before anything else, then it gets pumped down to the crank shaft, and then back up to the other camshaft. some see oil go through
  24. well if we're going there, it's more like shrooms about 20 minutes before they reaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaally reel ya in. ever been camping and just stare at a large boulder for about 20 minutes right before lift off? shiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiii
  25. I'm looking at the wiring harnesses I have here for 1969 and 1970, and for the life of me, I can't determine what the original colour of the transparent rubber/plastic terminal insulators are supposed to be. Some of the larger ones from, say, the interior where the parking brake switch is seem to be of a greenish hue, even when cleaned thoroughly. Yet a couple of others that are the same dimensions and for the same type of crimp terminal look more like an amber colour. Then there are some that are just so burnt from possibly engine bay heat or UV discoloration, that they are closer to bro
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