Leaderboard

I finally figured out how to fix my door seal problem and thought I would pass on what I found. My problem was that my passenger door seal works perfectly , but my driver side you had to use both hands to shut the door . These seals were put on years ago and should have taken a set by now . From my research and talking to several rubber suppliers I was shocked to find that many Z car owners are experiencing the same problem I have. I looked at the fender alignment, hinge alignment, and door panel trying to discover what the heck was the wrong. Most of the door on the driver side sealed correctly , but from the door sill to the top of the door on the latch side was really interfering with the door . What had happened was the rubber seal was bunching up between the door and the body. The normal gap for the seal was 1/4 inch when compressed , but my door seal was 1/2 inch when compressed. See photos of what I'm talking about . The seal should have been designed to normally push down under the door . Instead the seal I had was normally facing up and being compressed between the door/panel and the seal attach point. This could have been just this seal or a seal that was from a different supplier. What I was told was that there are only 2 rubber suppliers that make door seals for Zcars. I can't verify this but who knows. I couldn't find the Aki door seal as mentioned in the previous text and if ordered it would cost over $100. So looking on Amazon I found a wealth of door seal possibilities. The seal I ordered from Amazon is near perfect , seals the door to the body, and looks good. I think time will tell if the seal takes a set and remains sealed. One thing I did find was that a seal should only be compressed 25% of its original diameter to make a good seal. Any more than that and the seal will deform / compress and not seal properly. One other piece of note worthy advice is those who have a Zcar shop do ANY work for you should make 2 appearances per week at the shop unannounced to check the progress on your car. I trusted the guy that owned the shop I used and have regretted it to this day. I can't believe one shop could make the number errors that were made on my car if they tried that hard. This was only one the 47 other problems I have had to correct. And this was a shop chosen by Nissan for the vintage Zcar rebuild program. Hope this helps someone who is having the same problem. Ron

I think in South Florida we go straight into summer with 90 degree temps tomorrow! But, hey, I'm always ready! Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Hi Kats, It looks like the numbers shown in the table are correct. Not sure why the numbering was different on the early RH seats. One of my parts books came from Nissan USA's HQ and has hand written notes when the part numbers changed or when parts were NLA. Also included a picture of the page with the vinyl swatches that includes the blue vinyl.

Big milestone day! Got the rear diff and half shafts back in the car!

Ready for spring!

Retired - sorry ?

I built mine in... 3/16” steel on the connecting plates. Lowest point on the car...

wish I could make it this year but can't make it happen

Just remember that the period of oscillation is independent of the mass of the pendulum. Ha ha ha... Wikipedia. I don't know any of this. And don't feel bad, Galileo had problems too. Maybe you should pray. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Equations_of_motion "Galileo did not fully grasp the third law of motion, the law of the equality of action and reaction, though he corrected some errors of Aristotle. With Stevin and others Galileo also wrote on statics. He formulated the principle of the parallelogram of forces, but he did not fully recognize its scope. Galileo also was interested by the laws of the pendulum, his first observations of which were as a young man. In 1583, while he was praying in the cathedral at Pisa, his attention was arrested by the motion of the great lamp lighted and left swinging, referencing his own pulse for time keeping. To him the period appeared the same, even after the motion had greatly diminished, discovering the isochronism of the pendulum. More careful experiments carried out by him later, and described in his Discourses, revealed the period of oscillation varies with the square root of length but is independent of the mass the pendulum."

I love this video, especially the first minute ....???

Took a few minutes to customize the @silverminemotors rear disc brake and park brake adapters. The supplied raw aluminum finish looked good, but I thought it would look better on my car with a nice gloss black finish. First a nice sandblasted texture, still drying from the cleaner...: And some gloss powder: And again after 30 minutes at 425 degrees! Now to just chase the threads and we should be good to go!

While I wait for more brake components to get finished, I thought I would test out this new Park Brake cable from @silverminemotors. Available here from Edan: Park Brake Cable This original equipment was worn out and not suitable for the new Wilwood park brakes. The new cable is complete with the cir-clips needed to secure it to our setups, and fits nicely through our rubber hangers. I will get some more pics of the setup as I connect them to the park brakes. And one without the glare of the flash under the car... The length of the cable looks perfect so it should allow some flexibility in the custom setups for different people. I like it!

I drove the Z to Road Atlanta today to watch testing for the Mitty. Here's a link to my favorite photos from today: https://photos.app.goo.gl/xZnwaKkdb6aKxSFq7

Hi Mr CO. Its 10000000000% not on the road. ? However did make a some shims that 'fixed the issue, I might check the new bearings size against the old though(annoyed I didn't think of that before). Stub axles are run true in the bearings, its just that they bind when torqued up. Reading the above, it seems the new Timken bearings could be the issue? I might make a new distance piece for the centre of the hub and then its a single shim for the outside...... Bloody annoying really.