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Jim along with everyone else has hit the nail on the head. Buy the best car you can afford. Yes, prices are going up but that is no reason to buy junk or anything with a checkered past. A friend of mine has a '73 240z here in town he is looking to sell. Its an automatic but could easily be swapped to a 4-speed or 5-speed if you desired. PM me if interested and/or we can chat over the phone. I am in Hutto near Round Rock and Georgetown.

Very pretty. A real pain to take apart to show people at car shows though....

My honest opinion is that you're working in the minutia. I don't think there's any meaningful performance benefit to what you did to the valves. Looks pretty? Certainly. Bragging rights? Absolutely! Performance gains? I would have to see the dyno sheet before and after. I'm no engine builder, but I think there are waaaay bigger fish to fry before you start seeing any changes from the surface finish on the valves. Cam changes. Intake tract improvements. Combustion chamber design improvements. Exhaust tract improvements. All that stuff. I think the valves are in the .1% at the very end once everything else has been optimize. The NASCAR and Indy guys who have already squeezed out the other 99.9% elsewhere might see a tiny improvement, but not us. That's my uneducated non-expert read.

It's been discussed here on classiczcars several times in the past, and the "it's Cadmium" opinion tended to come from one particular source. In fact, Nissan factory documentation in Japan mentions that on most of their product of the period concerned they and their suppliers were using was ZINC plated, and often finished with a yellow/gold passivation stage. The Japanese word for Zinc is 亜鉛 ('Aen') and it is mentioned specifically in Nissan's 'Service Shuho' booklets for the S30-series Z cars.

You have this crew confused with some other group!!!!!

I am so BUSTED.... Nice to have fellow upstanding law abiding citizens on here..

Haha!!! I didn't know Atlanta was Coke's main hive. Kinda like parking your Nissan in GM's lot, huh? Looking forward to seeing the HVAC stuff Wayne. Should I bring anything from my end to help out? Give me a call if there's something I need to bring along.

So what's the bottom line? It sounds much better. Are you calling this a success now? The thread was about severe driving problems. Are you claiming victory? That would be sweet!

You better. I'm going back into mine this off season.

No need to search out unobtanium overpriced 30+ year old cranks. Engineered Performance is now selling billet L6 cranks made to any spec you want. As long as you have 3600 american green backs to get you started, you can build the engine of your dreams with new parts. Look them up on Facebook. https://m.facebook.com/NissanRaceEngineMachining/

The fuel bouncing around would speed evaporation by increasing surface area. In other words, it would reach vapor pressure more quickly as the temperature goes up, or after something like a fuel fill up. When you stop for gas and woosh the cap, you release the vapor pressure. But it will re-attain that pressure when you put the cap back on. About the backpack blower... It's my understanding that the check valve in the cap allows air INTO the tank, but doesn't let anything out. My understanding is that entire system is supposed to operate under a vacuum as fuel is removed from the tank. If one would ask the question "so why doesn't the tank pressure go up on that" I don't have a good answer. I don't know why your blower ends up in a puddle of fuel when you shut it off. And maybe even more important... I don't know why mine doesn't. Maybe because you're taking fuel out so fast? Maybe because the float chamber is atmospherically controlled? Don't know, and now it bugs me. Thanks a lot.

Same here, I love that diagram, I'm in the midst of overhauling the wiring harness right now on my 77 280 and it is the real deal. Thanks for all that hard work.

Are both of them longer or just one? My '72 had longer pin arms? on the front carb and the OE valves had one long one for the front and a shorter on the rear. If they are not a whole lot longer I would think you could use them and adjust the float as you said. As long as the float doesn't hit the walls of the float chambers you'd be good, I think. ? Here's a picture of a pair with the two different lengths I bought. If I remember right the valves came from Black Dragon, according to the guy I bought them from.

Interesting posts on Hybridz.org regarding fusible links (that's me in my other pen name). dmorales used to post over here I think. Edit - actually he still does, just on different topics. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/123252-280z-restomod-progress/?page=7&tab=comments#comment-1207295

Does this discount still apply today 9/12/18? I haven't ordered from MSA in a while, but I usually just included my member number.. Still the same method? Thanks!

Hi, I’m the “gentleman” (Rich may be a little too generous ?) that is the original owner of the ‘73 Z of this thread. I’m happy I managed to hang on to my Z this long and yet ashamed I have let it sit so long. I bought it new from Gubrud Valley Datsun in Mt Vernon Washington shortly after returning from an 11 month deployment with my US Navy A6 Intruder squadron aboard the USS Kitty Hawk. ( which was a great way for a young ensign to save his pay to buy a Z!). I’ll post more info about the history of this car when I get back home after the 4th.