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Hey guys, just thought I would share this with you. Some may remember I started a build back in 2009 (wowsers, long time ago...) of a 1:12 scale Tamiya 240ZG model kit. In the years between then and now, many changes were made, ideas blossomed...some faded....Fact is, I now have 4 of these kits with another ordered last night. ? 3 x 240ZG and a Safari 240Z. (Safari kit is what I ordered last night. The new kit will be for an attempt at a reasonably accurate version/copy of a 432R. Will be a lot of scratch building required to get the motor correct. Anyways, this is a version of the 240ZG which I have just completed. The motor is far from factory original, but there is a build coming that will be stock. ? This motor was printed by a friend in 3D.

The pic is of a '73 that I saw in Portland OR a few years ago. The owner had 3 1973 Zs all restored like that. I don't plan on polishing/chrome the valve cover like that one. I agree that the extra pollution controls and other complexity (plus the early vapor lock issues) were the real cause of the problems ascribed to the flat tops. To me the complexity is a learning curve issue from the features of the flattops like the power circuit and idle adjustments that (in theory) allow the carbs to be tuned for both power and idle. I wonder if anyone has ever run a dyno test on a single Z using both the round tops and the flat tops. With everything else as equal as possible and the carbs mounted on the same intake, with the same pollution equipment (if possible), etc. Might be fun to do that and see what the differences are that are just due to the carbs.

Ouch... The 304 Gold Metallic on my 260Z is from Sherwin. We have a supplier a few blocks from the shop and they've never had a problem with the old Datsun codes. All the paint we've gotten has been very true to original colors. We've shot probably a dozen Z's with Sherwin base or single stage paint (we don't use Sherwin's clearcoat though - PPG DCU-2021 is our preference). So, you have a very lazy Sherwin Dealer - their codes are country-wide. We found the PPG lower end paints to be kinda sub-par. Their Deltron paints are phenomenal, but you'll pay a premium... The engine bay is the worst to clean and sand. Make sure you get everything super clean. Make sure the existing paint is well adhered if you're going to leave it on. I like to get to the original paint. Chips and cracks down to the metal leave small spots where rust can develop and spread under the paint. Paint doesn't stick to rust (oxide) and you don't want underlying paint to come loose under your fresh paint. Do your rust repairs and use POR-15 if necessary. (POR-15 is a weird product, read all the information on their website before you use it and follow all their directions carefully. I goes VERY far - a little covers a LOT - so, start off with a quart. Brush it on - it "self-levels" very well. You're going to throw away everything you use to apply it, so disposable applicators are best (we've tried using foam "brushes" but find inexpensive natural bristle brushes to be best) There's a lot of stuff in the engine bay and I suggest you take out everything you possibly can. It's difficult to shoot around the wiring, hard lines, brake parts, master cylnders, hood pull, speedo cable, choke cables, windshield washer lines, wiper motor wiring - you get the picture... We pull everything except the hard lines that go back to the rear of the car. Those, we loosen up as much as possible to get them away from the frame rail and wrap them with tin foil.

Hi Don , thank you for the joining here , Yes I still use the mechanical fuel pump and the cooling fan , I do not want to change those things because I love Stock . I have had a trouble once or twice about fuel during my ownership since 2000 , that was overflowing from the SU carb fuel chambers . I opened the chambers and checked the fuel floats, they seemed twisted sideways and sticking to the wall , then fuel valves were stuck open. If I drive my Z in a traffic jam under such a hot day , I will have the same trouble again . Oh , when I brought my 240Z for Las Vegas ZCON 2000, I had a vapor locking . I parked my car under the strong sunshine , after returning from the drugstore , the engine hesitated to fire up . I tried to start several times , then finally I made it . Nowadays Japan’s summer is extremely hot , tomorrow will be 37 degrees Celsius (98.6 Fahrenheit) , when I was a kid , max was like 30 C ( 86 F ) . We can see this in the first service manuals ( Nov 1969 ) , a section Engine shows SU fuel mixture diagram. The diagram has a scale only up to 30 C or so . This is my biggest question, people in hot area like you Don , did they have a vapor lock trouble back in 1970s ? Was it not hot that high back in those days ? Kats

Hi Kats, I noticed that you still have a mechanical fuel pump and stock fan. Maybe it never gets very hot where you are so you must not have trouble with vapor locking problems. Here in central Texas I must use a flex fan (very LOUD) and electric fuel pump only and I still get a jumpy ride after sitting at traffic light for a while. don

Alas, no photo's today, but I will add that it was time consuming even with help. An extra pair of hands is the only thing I would add to zKars list. The spray adhesive included in the MSA headliner kit was good. It was the 3M 08088.

LOL. And it's exactly this kind of claim that I'm talking about when I said the damage to the reputation is already done, and (I believe) is irreversible.

You have access to install an in-tank pump, and improve on the stock baffling. The 280Z tanks are known for a poor baffle design that leads to fuel starvation on left hand turns when the tank gets down below 1/3 full. Consider.

My only experience with the flat tops is that I had a '73 with them on and they ran great, even in bad traffic on the 5 Freeway. Hard for me to complain when I have only had a good experience with them.

Flat tops got to the place and reputation for three reasons. IMHO 1. Complexity. When they wear out, and they all do, rebuilding them was difficult. Kinda the same, keeping them in tune was also tricky. 2. Availability of the earlier simpler round tops. Why bother when something simpler and better is available, barring some polution law in your kneck of the kwoods that made you do it. 3. Rebuild kits were NLA for a long time. MSA has them again, I bought a set. I have a bushel of flat top cores if someone is wanting some.... Crickets...... I have previously expressed my admiration for the design of the flattops. While I threatened to build a set and show the na sayers some time slips, well, you know what happened. Too complex, time consuming and there are these fantastic folks at ztherapy....

All three of my garage doors have been "marked" by a Z.

The only shop I know that might be available would be zcargarage.com up in San Jose. Currently, I am pretty booked and would not be available until sometime next year. Also, I know Les at Classic Datsun Motorsports in Vista is pretty booked as well. For reference: a restoration that looks like it just left the factory will most likely be in the $30K to $100K range, dependent on the current condition of the car. Also, it takes a little time and can be 6 months to 2 years to complete.

15x8 enkei apache 2 silver with polished lip 225-50-15 falcon tires coming soon...have to wait on the guys regular enkei shipment to avoid extra freight