Leaderboard

After days of trying white vinegar , agitation , SS cable to unclog the return lines I have the tank clean. I went ahead and did the POR -15 tank seal kit. This was battle but hopefully the worst I’ll see on the 77 . I still have a lot of the fuel system to go thru, but the nasty tank job is done . I bought rebuilt injectors and now need to change every piece of hose in the engine and fuel system. I told the owner that this is where the car nickel and dimes you broke. I can’t even use the original fuel clamps because of the difference in size of the braided hose diameter . There goes another 25$ ! So far I’ve bought over 1500$ worth of parts and materials to get this beast going again. And I have no idea of the true shape of the motor? By appearances and inspection I think it’s okay. There’s so much to go thru with the EFI set up that you can’t just try and start it.

It's a 78, right? Looks like a great project. And you're not allowed to post any more side view pics until you have removed that Z HAWK decal/paint thing. That's just got to go! And quick!

I drove my 83 280zx until the engine was hot enough to cause a vapor lock on start up after being parked about ten minutes in 90 degree heat. The fan that cools the fuel rails never kicked on. I knew the fan worked properly because after turning the engine off I pulled the lead from the thermostat switch located on the thermostat housing and ground it, and immediately the Fan started working. I knew then that my problem was the fan switch the screws into the thermostat housing so I ordered a new one and replaced it and I still got the same result. I don’t think the Fan would’ve kicked on if the engine was on fire. After that I searched on eBay and found the small thermostat switch that is normally open but closest when the temperature reaches 122°F. I simply grounded One side of the switch to a bolt on the valve cover and then plug the other end into the wire that I took off of the thermostat sensor. Now it works great, take my car out on a hot day and I Park it and my cooling fans come on every time. I’ve attached a picture of the small sensor Showing the way I attached it. You can find these on eBay for a couple of bucks, just make sure that you get one that’s normally open, and is the correct temperature that you’re seeking. The 122°F as work great for me. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Installed 4 post lift to get garage ready for my next Z project

I think it’s just neglect. The car sat outside in the elements for decades in the hot Nevada sun. Being under the car you realize that it has seen only 30k miles. The struts had/ has some kind of assembly markings( stickers)for left and right. The zinc is still pretty on the brake line brackets and hardware . I think the maintenance was done by hacks . Remember years ago when no one cared about these cars except they were a cheap import ? Ill investigate the paint

Finally replaced drivers rear wheel cylinder on my 280. Hasn't been out of the garage in a year at least. Took around the neighborhood for testing. No leaks and a nice pedal. $10 to my mailbox from rockauto, Centric brand. Happy, happy!

Hi all, Diseypon is around. In my conversation with him building seat brackets and inner rocker panels were not his primary business. Be patient for a reply. I can attest to the level of attention and quality of his work. I have a complete seat bracket set as well as his inner rocker panels. All high quality items and worth the wait to establish a contact and he is a great guy to chat with.

Haha! Well if you can prove provenance to a Seahawks player, then fine. You could keep it. But if not.... I mean, it's your car and all, but it makes my eyes clamp shut by reflex. I can't help it.

Actually, Zcardepot sells the rear hardliners in stainless for $49.00. The conversion allows the early cars to use the later wheel cylinders......no bending required.

I just use a wax and grease remover, but the big thing is to make sure you rough it up enough so that the paint has something to 'key' into. Make sure you use a primer first of course, and I always use a dust coat first. Then gradually build up to wet coats. Often if you try to go for a wet coat straight off the bat, you will end up with issues even if you have cleaned it up really well.

LOL. I don't think there was any disrespect. Here's my translation: "You know that for the 78 280Z, Datsun went to a three prong oil pressure sender that has a switch built in. And those switches are still available aftermarket for cheap. So with that in mind, why are you messing around with adapting Fiero parts (which may or may not have the correct plumbing thread) when you could just buy the sender unit for a 78 that already has the switch AND has the correct threads?" I believe that's what SteveJ and ZedHead are alluding to.

No problem using a larger pin. Just make sure it's hardened, ie don't use a bolt. Certain crazy people have even gone as far as inserting a bearing in the pedal hole for that velvety smooth clutch feel. They shall remain nameless, ok, me...

Holy Moly!! 73 skidoo! Whoo Hoo!! Bring it on Rich! I'm all eyes and ears on following THIS restoration----I am admittedly biased, but truly do believe that the 73 240z is THE most difficult of the Z cars to restore to originality. Parts are difficult to find that are specific to them, and they are numerous. You know, as you've had one in the not so distant past. Looking forward to some of that "flat top love" that is pretty darn scarce in the Z world. Let me know if there is any way I can help. The owner is so lucky to have found and employed you to do it!

Clear turnsignal lenses mounted. Think I like it...

Alright everyone, thank you so much for the feed back. I'm finally back home and have some additional info... please bear with me. Two years ago I installed new OEM wheel cylinders (not cheap) from zcar depot. Last year I only drove the car twice because something bad happened inside my engine. I talked the wife into letting be buy a 2.7 stroker from Datsun spirit. Now I have an auto trans so I rarely set the e-brake. The first night of the engine install the car was on jack stands so I left the e-brake applied. The next morning I discovered a puddle of brake fluid under the rear drives tire. It appeared to be leaking from the hard/ soft line junction. So I tightened that up and cleaned everything up. Sadly the next night I discover it was still leaking. I cleaned everything up and decided to check once I got home. The strange thing is that it has not leaked since. I have about 450 miles on the engine and the rear wheel has no fluid leaking. I'm home this weekend so I plan to bleed it, but I'm still confused about what happened and why. Sorry if this ran a little long.Heres a picture of the new engine because picture make threads better. Cheers, Scot

The newer wheel cylinders for a 240, the $30 ones, will require some tube bending. The inlet is in a different position. The ones that don't require the bending are about a $100. The $100 goes in from the side. The $30 threads into the top. Not too big of a deal but be ready if you get the cheaper one.

I hope I'm not speaking out of turn but he replied to me in #12 he had to use a Dremel to grind some to get the caps to fit. I have Rewinds and really like them. Love them price wise compared to others that look very similar. I think I read they're lighter too. I know one guy on here runs them on his race car and it seems like he said they were lighter.

Thanks @w3wilkes for posting this up. I'm Hung Vu and it has been a while since I last visited this forum. Currently, I'm working on the website and hoping to have it out shortly. For the meantime, communication will done via, Facebook, Instagram (@vintagedashes), and email vintagedashes@gmail.com Feel free to ask any questions you have or send me an email. I will respond back in timely fashion.