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In Canada, if the car was previously registered with a clean title then im good to go. As far as the safety side of things go, let's be honest there is a danger factor in this setup ill agree to that. Theres also danger inherent in driving my lifted truck over 80 km if I swerve hard with no sway bars she will probably be on it lid. If i hit something head on in the 240 and put the engine into my nuts I don't think the frame rail will be of my biggest concern. On the other hand, Im more concerned about getting driven over in this low arse car. I appreciate that some people, And I don't really know what u guys mean when referring these porsche types.... But some. Guys might not be happy with the way certain things get done and not only on my build. In my case, I got a rusty z, ive always wanted one, and I'm goin to build this one to the best of my ability and budget, and when it's done I'll enjoy and try my best to avoid any trees. If it's an auto mobile vs automobile accident chances are it will happen at some sort of angle or ill drive under a truck and cut my head off anyway. Sent from my SM-N950W using Tapatalk

I got the hatch open from the inside. Now what can I do to fix the problem. Should I move the lock part on the hatch forward or backwards ? Or should I just play with it ? Also if you get a new lock or are restoring a 71Z, leave the hatch panel off until you have the hatch opening and closing properly. Thank you.

Wins my vote for, 'Reply of the Year' . Hope you didn't take my 'Porsche' comment the wrong way. I am always impressed by this type of 'git 'er done' resourcefulness and outside-the-box thinking. As for the 2mm-wall steel tubing, there was a day when almost all cars were body-on-frame and the concept of, 'crush zones' didn't exist. As you correctly point out, the only person possibly at risk here is you (and your passenger). Keep us posted on your progress. I'm learning a lot from the solutions you're developing along the way.

Well hopefully all being well exciting things are about to happen to bring the car back on the road in another revised and much improved state. Given my lack of engineering skills and knowledge (something I'd love to change and keep endeavoring to) the car is going to Passion Engineering this Saturday for a lot of TLC and primarily to have the R180 3.9 LSD installed, S14 gearbox conversion done and the engine looked at with the new carb setup dialed in. It's safe to say that I'm super excited to have the car back and on the road to make the most of the rest of the summer having only managed to nurse the car to two summer shows and then locked it up in the garage. With the new revised setup it should be able to really attack some B roads and cruise a lot better. Having thought several times I'd got everything I need over the past several months I've had several issues and hurdles to overcome including last minute items this week which have hopefully now rounded off the list. The biggest issue has been trying to find a good S14 gearbox, it has become abundantly clear that they are is strong demand now with availability going down while prices are going up and the condition of them going down due to the drift scene wrecking them. The gearbox I had stripped by a local workshop was not going anywhere the past few weeks due to the shop repeatedly going back on their word about looking at it week after week, I've therefore had to make alternate arrangements. Last week thanks to Moggy I got in touch with a chap through Facebook who had two gearboxes for sale, in the end I struck a deal and have bought both gearboxes (both of which are meant to be good). We're going to just drop one in and see how it goes after all the issues with trying to get a box rebuilt locally to no avail. John Palmer kindly acquired a set of S14 internals from Dean's BRE race car which were spare in an attempt to help me have the gearbox rebuilt however the local workshop having spent weeks ignoring me have decided there are slight differences in the gear sets (not sure if there were are any differences between S14 or 14a boxes) and aren't interested in the job. Having now got fed up I've just collected the gearbox in pieces and am storing it in the garage while I work out what to do with it. Not being an expert in any respect but having inspected the gears, this wear that has been mentioned does not seem to be significant and I imagine had I just dropped the box in the car it would have been fine. I suspect the gearbox shop aren't interested in anything that isn't perfect out of fear of any comeback and have just been off with me since day one. Either way I now have two spare gearboxes at the minute albeit one is already spoken for I'll likely keep the stripped box for spares now. IMG-6582 by Mark Woodrow, on Flickr I also need to give a massive shout out to Richie P who has saved the day with my propshaft dilemma. Having not been able to work out what I needed or being aware that my propshaft was inappropriate for shortening coming from an earlier car and therefore not having a slip yoke on one end. By chance Richie had a transitional prop with a slip yoke lying around as a spare which would be ideal to be converted for my conversion. Not only that but he's spent the last few days running around, stripping it back, having it shortened to the correct length for my conversion, repainted and shipped to me ready for the work to be done. In theory I now have a bolt on solution and no more headaches to contend with. Big thank you dude! IMG-6589 by Mark Woodrow, on Flickr I've also now got my new stub axles to fit the Subaru LSD courtesy of John Williams in the US who is by far the most reasonably priced option for these and was well worth the wait. IMG-6223 by Mark Woodrow, on Flickr I've also decided to stray away from OEM aesthetics for a change, some people will love this and some will hate it however I decided to add some Bosozuku style to my build with this JDM styled shifter knob. I can't wait to see what it looks like installed however I'm confident it will look right at home. IMG-6583 by Mark Woodrow, on Flickr Finally I just want to give a shout out to all of the members of the club who have contributed and helped with my project to date, its amazing how many individuals have contributed to this car in some way and made it a reality when I've come across issues, needed information/advice and sourcing parts etc. Having a great community to support each other makes ownership that much easier and more enjoyable! Hopefully pictures of a working car are going to be up here imminently.

Here is a scan of the AFR curve I made back in 2003. 355 cii SBC, mild camshaft. Made 346 RWHP nad 368 RW Torque. Figures later went up a lot higher with a bigger cam and different Intake Manifold. Car passed Air care and got 23 MPG on Hwy. Daily driver . Autocross, Hillclimb and Track Day car. Carb was very trick. Built it myself. Started with a Holley 3310-1 vacuum secondary. Added Holley HP Main body, Annular Boosters, Quick change Vac secondaries. Biggest change was Weber Power plates replacing Holley fuel blocks. This changed carbs from 2 circuit to 3 circuit using DCOE and IDA components. Emulsion Tubes, main Jets , Air bleeds etc. Dyno operator could not believe how flat and accurate the Fuel curve was. we had about a dozen cars at this Test Day. Mine was the only Carbureted car. All the rest were Tunbo Honda's Turbo BMW's and a couple of Corvettes thrown in. Most were stand alone EFI systems. EFI Tunes were all over the place ... just bad Tuners.

I'm not trying to discredit anyone's safety observations either. But I'd rather drop 350 hp onto steel tubes than a rusty frame that will fold if if i fart over a speed bump. Sent from my SM-N950W using Tapatalk

tough era to live thru...

As long as the tree is okay that's what matters?

Resourceful and fearless. Thanks for the pix. Red Green would be proud. It's a good thing that there aren't any Porsche types on this site. They'd be apoplectic after seeing this kind of solution! Speaking of 'resourceful', my old friend Kees Nyrop (Porsche hero and past winner of the Sebring 12 Hour race -- you can look it up) is also a 240Z fan and built a rotisserie for his restoration out of lumberyard wood. He lives in Kelowna.

My redneck frame rack. The car is level and I shimmed a tight fit above the lower a pillar area to my ceiling . Like mentioned the nose on these things does t take much to move around. In the picture I have the driver side pushed up higher to sit. I've since dropped it and shimmed it to the frame. Supporting itself out front and loaded its all straight now Sent from my SM-N950W using Tapatalk

If and when you do any pulling to take out the twist, here are some safety tips that I found online. They're not all appropriate to a unibody repair or to the type of repair you're going to attempt, but they'll give you something to think about... Inspect clamps and chains before each use. Wrap chain around a frame member several times. Do not twist the chain. Place padding around sharp corners of frame members that rub against the chain links. Ensure that the chain hook is connected to a link with a firm grip. Test it before applying tension or hydraulic pressure. Place a heavy blanket over the chain and clamp before pulling to minimize fly-back if the chain breaks. Stand to one side of the chain, not behind it. Stand behind a strong acrylic plastic or safety glass shield during all but the lightest pulls. Use two or more chains for pulls that require a great deal of force. Reinforce weak parts before pulling. Check the level of hydraulic fluid. Inspect hoses and connections frequently for leaks and general condition. Screw all body attachments (clamps or hooks) on tightly. Avoid damaging threads on the attachments. Replace damaged links with same quality and size of link. Do not use temporary threaded links for high stress applications. Teeth of clamps need to be clean and dry. Inspect clamps and chains for wear. Replace clamps that have worn teeth. Replace the chain if it is nicked or otherwise damaged. Make sure the chain is rated for the intended pulling force, including a large safety factor. Remove all undercoating where the clamp is attached. Before attaching the clamp to a rusted panel, tack weld a metal brace to the panel for support. Have the vehicle on its wheels or bolted to mobile safety stands when pulling. This prevents the vehicle from falling off the stand during the pull.

This is what I have for the Z Triple 45mm OER’s

Here's a good one in pdf format. Good old Blue246... http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/electrical.htm Oddly, it's not in the CZCC Download area but it says it's a CZCC diagram. Edit - actually it is but you have to read the fine print. https://www.classiczcars.com/files/category/1-wiring-diagrams/

Good! If your measurements are still off, then you will need to spread it before you weld it up. Be careful to not pour the heat to it as you weld or you may get some unintended results. Try to replicate the factory dimensions as close as you can.

and then I get humbled Now admittedly I have some excuse. I was multi tasking on multiple cars and projects. Then I took a big swig of beer, which happened to have a wasp in it. Stung me in the throat, the little monster! Had to hurl him back up. When the swelling started to get spooky, ended up at Urgent Care getting shots in my rump. Spent the rest of the day asleep in my recliner. So the plating didn't turn out. I will strip them and try again on Saturday maybe