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This one looks like it has had the Lucas electric kit installed ;-) http://www3.telus.net/bc_triumph_registry/smoke.htm

I did run a magnet around the head last night, but no luck finding the small part. Ordered new lash pad (.170") and got a couple rare earth magnets here at work. Should be back up and running soon!

Thx 240260280 to encourage me :-) Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

For the rocker install: Turn cam so that the problem lobe is up. Install the lash pad. Place the rocker beside the lowered adjuster and fit the other end into the lash pad. Rotate the rocker toward the adjuster and try to lift its end up onto the adjuster's ball cap. If the pressure is too much, you can stick a very large screw driver between the spring retainer and the cam. Pry the retainer down by using the cam body (not the lobe) as the fulcrum. Obligatory WW image: If she were a president, she'd be Baberham Lincoln.

Ha! That's my ringtone, "da na na, da na na..."

Maybe all of those old boxes are empty? Wouldn't that be funny??? I didn't see anything worth very much but I didn't look up all of the part numbers either. I think that for $3000 the seller could list the part numbers for us. I think it's a big gamble to bid on that stuff. Someone on Facebook recently had a ton of Z stuff for sale...truckloads! But it was mostly just pic of boxes. I asked if he had a list of parts but he didn't. How can I make an offer if I don't even know what I might be buying? Chuck

Good find! Glad it is not lower end. Sweep the head with a magnet (including springs) to try and find the broken pieces. Also put a super magnet on the outside of the oil pan near the drain to try and localize any debris. Remove the magnet when you drain the oil and hopefully it will be close enough to the drain to get carried out with the flow. For installing the rocker, you just need to wind down the adjuster all the way. Fit the rocker end between the cam and lash pad then pop the other end over the adjuster ball. Sometimes a long flat screwdriver helps as a lever to push down valve spring a wee bit. Be sure to inspect the cam lobe and two rocker faces for wear or damage. Excellent!

To install this grill in my '73, with the stock '73 bumper brackets, it's going to need some modification. Also, it's made to fit cars without a bumper. Ben says it will work with early Z brackets but not '73. The mod for the grill is not a big deal but I don't currently have a bumper. Considering a carbon fiber bumper since it's way cheaper considering all the parts and hardware required, and looks OK IMO. Changing the brackets to 71-72 might make it easier for bumper and new grill. Starting new thread about that.

“That theres ur problem”. Broken lash pad. The other small part that broke off it I cannot find so it probably dropped to the pan. I’ll check the thickness tomorrow and order one. Do I have to remove the camshaft to install a new one?

I wasn't there to confirm the situation, but I have heard the same. I guess if you went back to the dealer a couple times and made a scene, I've heard some would put round tops on it to appease an unhappy customer. All that said, a true stock 73 should have flat tops, as should a 74. I can deal with an early 73 having a set of later design flat tops (since that update is documented in Nissan's literature), but I would start subtracting points for any round top on a 73 or 74 in a stock class. Flat Is Phat!! (I didn't make it up... I'm just promoting it.)

I know this old girl we call Patina.

Lube up the linkage points, pedal to the rod on the intake. If it's no better add a spring. I put one on my hood latch base to the linkage coming through the firewall from the pedal when I first bought it. It could also be the dash pot plunger holding the rpms. Could be the starter too. If it doesn't get quiter pull the starter off and take to a parts store for testing. While you have it off pull the spark plugs and put in gear, roll it and shine a light where the starters nose meets the flywheel. Look for damaged teeth. Could be the starter isn't mounted properly, at an unhappy angle. Seems like I've read where people have to use shims to get them in line with the flywheel. Glad you got it going.

The starter grinding can be worn teeth on the starter or flywheel. Most common is a weak solenoid often caused by a voltage drop to it. You shouldn't have to turn the engine much (just a couple of degrees) to align the starter teeth with the flywheel. Throttle problem could be lack of return spring(s) (gas pedal and engine), or lack of lube. What did you mean when you said "it" wouldn't turn off? Starter? Engine?

For the sprite and for the mk1 Mini Cooper that we work on the parts are so easy and extremely cheap to find, mini mania has everything and anything you need for these guys. It’s a walk in the park to fix stuff, we do need to get a better tune on the Weber that we have for it, the SU are nice, but it’s not punchy.

i dont think that ever goes away entirely. you just finally learn whats worth chasing

They are. Because they know they'll need parts and you have to go find them.

after that year, it will be "patina" it only adds to the value

Drums are surely sufficient for braking in the original form in all but extreme or track conditions, but disc are much simpler in many ways and don't need any adjustment. They are also much easier to visually inspect. They also have a nice visual aesthetic to them...

I re-checked wire again last night.... then I found out that I connected the positive wire and the negative wire opposite way to the IC matchbox. After re-connect, turn the key..., worked!!! Thanks Chas, Zed Head for constant advice! I can move to next area now! Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Ask member @Zupabout restoring a '73 with flat tops "properly". Carefully sole search your desire to have a totally original '73 restoration before continuing. The issue used to be the difficultly of restoring the flat tops to original like new condition, but rebuild kits have recently been found and returned to the market making it "possible". Tuned and in-spec these carbs are 'better" than round tops !! (sorry, couldn't resist... please don't fill this guys thread with rebuttles... ) PS, if you need some, I might have kept a few....

The difference in actual safety to the occupants with any of the S30 doors, is SO much less than any comparable, modern door, that it is not worth worrying about if you have the "best" doors or not. Any car of this vintage requires that do all you can to actively practice defensive driving techniques at all times to avoid any form of accident in the first place.

Another consideration with the fujitsubo system is muffler fitment. Fujitsubo has the jdm style twin tip exhaust. On my 75 280z the muffler hangs to low and is to visible for my taste. This is due to the fact that the factory exhaust cut out in the rear valance is smaller than on the 240z. Since the exhaust cut out doesn't go up as high I was not able to "tuck" the muffler up under the car/rear valance. The top exhaust tip of the twin tip muffler prohibits this. Pictures will show this. Just something to consider for those considering buying the fujitsubo exhaust system. Wish I would have known this but there isn't a lot of information out there on this exhaust system. I would have enlarged (cut) factory exhaust cut out on the rear valance more to the size of the 240z to allow for a tighter fit back when I did rear bumper conversion before body and paint. Sent from my SM-T377V using Classic Zcar Club mobile

But everybody says it doesn't make sense Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile