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We bought a 72 510 wagon for my son about a two years ago. It had been hit on the front right and it took us a while to get that straightened out. Lots of pulling, shrinking and welding We rebuilt the hood out of two different hoods there are some more pictures of this on the forum, but I don't know where... We are changing the cars color from an Ivory type color to one of the factory orange colors. Last weekend we pulled the hatch and started reworking it but there was some bondo on there, so that required a good bit of metal work and even after that there is still a lot of filler on the panel I will try to post up some more picture tomorrow

I fired the plating bench up today... I took the other strut caps to start with and bead blasted them. Then I took one of them and sanded the flat face with 320 grit paper I put them in SP degreaser; then water bucket rinse; then to the plating tank. I skipped the Pickle tank because I thought it was causing a rough finish on my parts After the plating tank, spray rinse then I put them in the Chromate tanks Blue for 30-60 secs, spray rinse and yellow for 15 secs The sanded one is on the right in the above photo I added a hot water bath for my chromate tanks to keep them warm I have a bucket heater we use when doing tile work in cold weather. I warmed up a bucket of water and poured it around the bottom of the chromate tanks I had to heat them up 3 times during a 9 hour or so plating session I worked on plating hardware on Cody's Su's for most of the day This is after bead blasting... I have a very fine bead in my blasting cabinet right now, so I skipped wire wheeling these items for This is the result. After they hang a little while I use a heat gun and finish drying them the rest of the way. After working at reassembling the SU, which is quite the puzzle, this is what I've got... Before on the right, after on the left

The difference in actual safety to the occupants with any of the S30 doors, is SO much less than any comparable, modern door, that it is not worth worrying about if you have the "best" doors or not. Any car of this vintage requires that do all you can to actively practice defensive driving techniques at all times to avoid any form of accident in the first place.

Let's ask Wheee (Mark) on that one................

Just bought a 70 240Z # 6920,last time ran was on 2002....needs a lot of work but almost a complete car. I will update you guys on her.... The Z arrived to new home.

Here is the story...and it's a long one! I bought this 71 back in the late 80's, I think I paid $1000 for it. Naturally it had to be hot rodded, the engine and trans(5 speed were swapped from a 77) still got the original engine and trans in good shape), the head was ported and polished, titanium retainers, the cam came from Ed the armenian (rip) he worked for Smokey Yunick btw, header , dual webers, electronic ignition, ansa exhaust, adjustable Tokicos, suspension techniques springs ...and so on, You get the pic. Got married in 91, had a baby and this thing stopped being practical, my younger brother wanted it so I sold it to him (don't remember for how much, not important) Anyway...he drove it for a couple of years till some kids stole it from his buddies house (how typical), the ignition lock locked up on them and they crashed into a pole, (front right corner), it was taken to a body shop , fixed and painted...all fresh rubber..that was in 94 or 95. he drove it for another year or so, until him and his gf took a weekend trip to Santa Barbara (from Northridge CA), he got 2 speeding tickets over 100 mph, one on the way there, one on the way back....into the garage it went, covered and left for dead. I been hounding him over the years to do something with it but he is a lazy computer engineer driving some fancy Bimmer....so it sat, in spring of 2016 I get a phone call: come and get it. its yours. Trailer hitched I head to Socal to pick it up and home it goes, Parked it in a buddies warehouse and started work, drained the gas, changed fluids...changed fuel pump (dead), one accelerator pump was dead....pour fuel...started on the first crank. since then got a carpet kit, seat skins, fixed the interior, installed aftermarket A/C(not finished yet) rebuilt the carbs (flooded on occasion), tackled the electricals (still moodey) The day has come to get it out of there (my buddies "request") so I pulled it out to the parking lot...crap,no starter (moody) jump started it with a screw driver and took it around the block...its drivable, time to take it home. How was the experience you ask....it's rude its crude it's stiff, steering is hard, getting in and out is a PITA. it hates to be driven civilly. zero sophistication...zero, it stinks of exhaust fumes, it forces one to step on it (and get speeding tickets), pure evil....however, I cannot explain that unwanted grin when pressing down that right foot....it's intoxicating! Now to the final question: how the hell do you get rid of the exhaust fumes?, all the rubbers are new, including the hatch Still have work to do... after the drive discovered the the water pump lost the bearing, temp gauge is dead, starter is still temperamental, I suspect the relay, I can hear it click but no starter. Finish the ac, the valves are noisy.. and so on...it never ends.

Now that’s some beautiful jewelry......I think my wife said she would like jewelry for Christmas!

I'm working on a set of SSS 38mm carbs from Z Therapy for my 510 project. These even have air bypass idle control and idle mixture control. Pretty advanced for the day. The flat tops in this case have no resemblance to the 73-74 Z carbs. Other than the air by pass hardware, they are just round tops with, well, flat tops....

Can I send you my parts?

Cody looks pretty proud, couldn't ask for a cooler car than that.

I ordered an OEM using the parts number supplied by siteunseen. Thank you for the help. Down the rabbit hole I go...

Hi guys: I want to provide an update on the replacement rockers. I installed four new rockers and adjusted the valves cold then I let the car idle for a hot valve adjustment. Great news the tapping is gone and it's just regular valve train noise now! Howard

The Milwaukee car was up on BaT not too long ago, it didn't reach the reserve but have a look, much better photos than the Craigs ad. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1972-datsun-240z-36/ I don't mind a bit of rust if the price is right. If you are serious about this^ then the first car will teach you everything you need to know about these cars, it will have to be stripped down to the shell and mounted on a rotisserie and then every section will have to be gone through and repaired. It is a big job but can be fun and is very rewarding when you get it back on the road, besides someone has to fix these rusty cars or they will just be parted out.

Blue, the drones would only be useful on the outside of buildings. Man down inside situations would not work so well. Poudre Fire Authority here uses drones for wildland fires and on big complexes like apartments, shopping malls, and large industrial complexes. An aerial view is a great tool for fire operations. Cheers, Mike

Grannyknot, our Spartans were "road delivered" by our mechanics so they were well on the way to being broken in by the time they got here. Also, I'm pretty sure the engines were run at the factory as the pumpers had to pass a pump test before they were accepted. So by the time the engines (in the fire service a truck with a pump on it is called an engine, one without is called a truck like a heavy rescue vehicle or an aerial apparatus like a tower or a ladder truck) were put into service they were ready to go. Hope this answers your question. Cheers, Mike

Excellent! Nice to hear! I think they will also be useful in man-down situations too.

If you want to avoid rust don't run it when there is salt on the roads. When you look at the underside of the car and how many of the seems are open for water intrusion it is very hard to seal them all up. Once the rust gets a foot hold inside the structure it is very hard to stop. If you have a nice clean rust free West coast car you should keep it that way by avoiding salt...

I spray my car with wd40 every 2 year.. the old layer of undercoating gets soft and is very sticky! I had a 280zx with every 2 years a new undercoat.. after 10 year i bought that car (my first one) and there was a big layer of undercoat, when the car was 20 years old a mechanic told me he could put a screwdriver through the bottom at 12 positions.. what i'm saying is: use one thin layer of undercoat and keep it "wet" with some wd40, works for me here in the wet and salty dutch winters! So... get off the loose parts and spray some wd40 on a part and let it get soft i a few days if it works do the whole underside. (maybe experiment with a mix of wd40 and paintthinner to get the Original coating soft again.) i would never put a plastic like bedliner on a car because if you see rust then ... it will be to late. and a car rots behind a thick coat of undercoat or bedliner..