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Hahaha... At least if you were driving that Lincoln you would have been surrounded with a lot of steel. Cycles on the other hand leave you bare to the road. Maybe that's why your Dad went from drinking to full blown alcoholic. Think?

Hello, everyone. I haven’t been on here in quite a while. My dad is a regular (diseazd) with 5 amazing s30’s. I have had many Nissans and owned a 72 510 for a few years but have never owned a Z. The S30’s are just too expensive for me and for some reason, over the last few years, I cannot get the Z31 300zx out of my mind. I almost bought one a year ago and then went on to other projects. My original plan was going to be to build a beast L series motor. Bored and stroked to 3.2L with high revs and a goal of 300hp. I quickly realized that building such a motor would likely cost about $12-15k all in. So I started leaning towards an RB20det or RB25det build. I know the guys who started Japanese Classics and Japan Parts service so I asked them what they might have in stock. They didn’t have any turbo engines but did happen to have an RB25de. I hadn’t even thought about an n/a build but suddenly everything made sense and I instantly had the final vision for what I wanted to build. I would build exactly what I wanted in an L series only at about half the cost with an RB. This gives me a crossflow head and twin cams which is obviously a benefit. Japan Parts Service also just so happened to have the one and only JDM Z31 5 speed they have ever gotten (the best of the 3 Z31 5 speed variants with Z32 internals) and the only RB bell housing they have ever gotten without a trans attached. It was like it was all meant to be. The RB25de also had a beautiful set of equal length long tube headers. Although I will just be using the block and headers, for the price I paid for everything, I am still way ahead. Today, I ordered an brand new Nissan RB26 head. It flows better out the gate and has a better lifter design for high revs. Going with Supertech +1 intake and exhaust valves and dual high tension valve springs with Tomei solid lifters to allow for a 9k redline. My dad and I know a great machinist who will port and polish the head on his flow bench. I will update here as I go. My dad and I will tear down the motor and then I will take it to my machinist. I also do not yet have a car but that will be the easy part. I am set on a 1986 300zx non turbo in white, black or grey with dark grey/black cloth interior and the analogue gauges. Why 86 only you ask? 86 is arguably the best year in that it came with the wider fenders featured on the 87-89 but has the early tail lights and split head lights which are a must for me. Looking forward to the next updates and happy to be posting here again. Brandon

These are the clamps (QTY and size) that I ordered off of e-bay for the hose in the engine bay. Cost was less than $50 for 42 clamps, not bad. I measured the diameter of each hose using my calipers and ordered clamps that were in the range. Double Wire Hose Clamp Pipe Clip Screw Bolt Tight Fitting Classic Zinc 9-120MM ( 351393130624 ) Clamp Diameter: 25-29Mm Quantity: 4 ITEM PRICE: US $4.64 Clamp Diameter: 40-45Mm Quantity: 6 ITEM PRICE: US $7.38 Clamp Diameter: 13-16Mm Quantity: 12 This item has been shipped. ITEM PRICE: US $12.60 Clamp Diameter: 28-32Mm Quantity: 4 This item has been shipped. ITEM PRICE: US $4.84 Clamp Diameter: 20-24Mm Quantity: 10 This item has been shipped. ITEM PRICE: US $11.50 Clamp Diameter: 18-22Mm Quantity: 8 This item has been shipped. ITEM PRICE: US $8.88

Radiator shop hot tanked it, acid dipped it, then I powder coated it then we did redkote. Also installed another drain for the redkote. I paid 200 for the dipping and acid. The redkote was free since he spilled (around the sending unit) some and I bought the materials. I ended up giving him a gift card for the work. He wouldn't let me pay him, since my tank looks flawless other then that.

Lumens nailed it! It is strange how spraying carb cleaner around these areas did not bring the problem to light earlier? btw our I6 engines are not prone to foaming gas as they are very well balanced at all rpms, so shock mounting carbs (fuel bowls) is not needed. However, road vibrations will shake the heck out of the needle valves and wear them out rather quickly thus the need for shock mounts.

Personally those carb to manifold gaskets look like junk. If o-ring type. Toss them. They like to pop out if not installed carefully. I have replaced a couple at the track for guys having issues. Install bakelite style with gaskets on both sides. Then start your tuning all over.

Lol, Hey if you adopt me, let me move in and Feed me, I'll speak only when spoken too, greet you with your favorite flavored coffee in the morning and do all the chores you want done! One of these days someone will adopt me! Not sure what I'll tell the wife!

Describing the problem helps understand it, is what I tell people often. Had to follow my own advice. I found a decent Remy "Gold" unit with about 3/4 left in the brushes, good resistance A to F, and smooth quiet bearings. Had a coupon, only $22 outlaid, with a $7 year-long return period extension. Got some sun, saw a bald eagle harassing the flocks of geese at the wildlife refuge next door...overall, a nice day in the wrecking yard. Got it home and installed and all is back to normal, had 14.5 volts at idle. Then found a couple of places on eBay that sell rebuild kits. $30 for bearings, slip rings, regulator and brushes. I might swap the Ford regulator for the kit's and maybe keep the Ford bearings, depending on quality. But I should be ready for the next go-round, whenever it happens. A good rainy weather project.

Maybe someday! I need to build that E31 then see if my SUs will keep it happy. Diseazed has some hot motors with SUs so I'm thinking they'll be fine. Who knows until I get there? Thanks 240260280.

I would recommend SK Racing/ OER carbs over Weber. They have more useful advancements in the design yet they use the Weber jets and E-tubes that are available everywhere.

I think that's a reasonably priced parts car. E31 and probably 4 screws carbs. Steering wheel and shift knob look original. I bet it's got the clean balance tube too. Getting it on a trailer without breaking in half would tough. Someone local will snatch that up pretty quick I think.

It's a shallow set It'll have a smile. Or if the blower is teethy and has a cough, a frown.

Good news on the extremely high idle situation. So, now as for the current idle behavior where it starts out cold at 900-1000RPM and increases as it warms up to 1300-1400RPM? That is to be expected. Engines don't ever really like to idle, and cold engines like it even less. It's normal for the idle RPM to increase a couple hundred from stone cold to full warm, and without additional devices (like the air regulator), it's impossible to simply "tune" out. The engine will always idle somewhat higher once warm. In fact, it's the air regulators job to mitigate this situation. It's job is to apply a compensation bump to the cold idle to force it up a couple hundred RPM. The air regulator then gradually reduces this compensation bump as the engine warms up. In theory, once the engine is warm and the air regulator is no longer adding any compensation bump, the idle speed should be where you want it. So starting backwards... If your warm idle is where you want it to be, and you remove the air regulator. your cold idle will be too low. and in converse... If your cold idle is where you want it to be, and you have removed the air regulator, your warm idle will be too high. Haha!! Does that make any sense at all?

These are old classic cars and look better with some sidewall versus really low profile tires. Just my opinion...

....I'm old school I guess..195/70/14 4 lug. I like the tall rubber filling the wheel well. Put new factory spec springs in and ride height is like it was " back then". Sent from my SM-T800 using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Not "interesting", but "telling". Those two newer lines were simply the ones that failed first! Good thing you addressed all of them before something bad happened!!