Leaderboard

A young artist in Poland produced this realistic drawing of my 280Z. Amazing talent. Thought I would share with you guys.

This is the point at which a Facebook group would *call Carl Beck*, and roll out the digital red carpet... ;-)

Gave, I do not know that, I will ask Ando-san about it. R-Factory is the famous shop , the owner Aihara-san rebuilt the engine. Aihara-san has rebuilt so many S20 for customers. This yellow Z432 has an unique all gear driven mechanism (including cam shafts gear driven) which is produced by Aihara-san. You can hear different sound from other S20s. Kats By the way, do you know who is an owner of this car? Mr . Nakamura Shiro , a former senior vice-president of Nissan. He got this car a few years ago. He was a chief of styling department. I hope Nakamura-san tells designers "make S30 again! " .

The anvil slipped onto the accelerator pedal and the car shot through the wall like a scaled cat. It was last seen in Kingston heading east.

When installing a new windshield and gasket, which channel in the gasket should I apply sealant if any? I have a new windshield and gasket from Precision that I plan on installing this weekend on my 240z. I plan to document the install with lots of pictures to share with the community.

I've done and read a good dozen different ways to get the fill plug loose including heat, a 10 pound hammer, a cheater bar and my favorite, using a jack with a small cup (Sears sells them for $100) and putting the other end of the wrench in the cup and jacking it up while you have the car on stands. Today I didn't have the small jack but I did have a ratchet strap that I wrapped around the engine crossmember and the wrench. A literal piece of cake.

The annual Branson Z Fest was held last week, ClassicZcars was well represented with three wins! In the hotly contested stock class, Zup coasted to a victory in 1st place! Mike W's beautiful 260 took 3rd place in street modified and, Best Paint award in the show. Congrats to Jim D & Mike W ! It was a fun time, especially the high speed dramamine run on Friday with 4 S30 cars thru the twisties of Missouri. Mike W will have a good story for his Zcon buddies with this last picture

So that translates to a 10K us car. No rust is a huge plus and I would check out every inch to be sure. If that is the case, I would consider it. It sounds to be in pretty fair condition but It really depends on how much you will put into it later. New seats, foam and carpet is about 1K plus whatever else is needed in there like headliner, visors, dash condition, console, etc. etc. Paint is directly related to how deep your pockets are. For that amount I would think the engine and engine bay should be clean. My two cents given.

And the new one installed (note to self, clean pilot used to drive seal and wipe seal before taking picture of installed new seal)!

Well the only items in the vicinity are bumper, gnose, lights, horn, and radiator. I think the part pre-dates the gnose so that is crossed off. Bumper reinforcements also came in late 74 so that could be ruled out. As Kats said it seems too big and structural for just holding horns. As well it is not on all bodies so that is another part of the puzzle. For this it would make more sense to be part of an option like AC rather than for factory alignment (which one would think to be on all bodies). Sometimes oil coolers are hung out there... could it be for that? Or maybe it is a mount for some sort of front accessory... snow plow, bike rack, rally fog lights, a really big hood emblem,?

I was running atf and then switched to 20 wt fork oil. The 20 wt seems to be better to keep the mixture from going extremely lean on quick accelerations. Sent from my SM-N915V using Classic Zcar Club mobile

I'm sure that they interchange but the early ones work differently. Lemme see if I can find a pic... It's something like this. Chuck

Hi Kats, I think that bolt has had the oil pump duplex chain rubbing against it, possibly because the oil pump sprocket was not shimmed correctly on assembly. There are four grades of shim for the S20's oil pump drive sprocket and it is crucial to set it correctly. I don't think it is any kind of externally-caused accident damage. Much more likely to be an in-service failure and/or incorrect assembly. Not good!

Used a rubber scraper and a lot of latex gloves!

Seam sealer going in nicely.

site, i ran the hose from the head to the heater core, and then from the heater core straight back to the fitting at the water pump. no problems so far.

Why couldn't it head west!!!! [emoji31]

Now, all you need is a poster to print that message on. It will sell millions of copies for years. You'll be wealthy beyond your wildest dreams! Dennis

the rest of it i understand, but why does weight transfer drop in the rain? maybe you could pm me with this. dont want to hijack this thread

Mail is a standard. Email is a standard. Facebook is a company......that has nearly fooled everyone.

When I mentioned the factory 'Roll Over/Safety Bar' mount prep points to ('Kaku U' team member) Osawa san in a conversation about competition influence, he had no idea they were even there. When I asked chief chassis engineer (also 'Kaku U' team member) Hitoshi Uemura about them he said "not my department...". It serves to remind that there was a cast of hundreds behind these cars.

I wouldn't close the file just yet. I still think there's more to be learned and understood about them and the story behind them. It's a mod/supersession that seems to have gone off half-cocked as far as I can see. I suppose we could surmise that the coming re-design of the rad support and lower crossmember (for the bigger radiator area) made the additional brackets obsolete, but I'm still curious.

Hi Kats, The pistons can bind if the domes are out of alignment. The way to check is to remove the plungers then lift and drop the pistons with your fingers in the throat on the bottom of the piston lifting it up and down. You should be able to feel any binding. The final calibration check is to lift both up to the top and release at the same time. They should "clunk" on the bottom at the same time. If not, it is possible that the margins have carbon or that the domes and pistons were mixed up at some time (or the springs are not matched or the nylon stop washer is missing in one). Sometimes you can swap the two pistons and the fall calibration will work better. Pistons and domes are matched in the factory but wear and mix-ups do happen. Binding is usually caused when screwing down the domes. If the dome is clocked (rotated) too much from its natural position, or if one screw is tightened too much at one time (to tilt the dome toward it) then binding will occur. The trick to optimally installing a dome is: 1. Fit the dome w/o screws and rotate it cw and ccw while visually noting the stopping points. You can mark with a pencil. Usually there is ~ 1mm of arc in each direction from the center. 2. Insert the screws to their middle depth (ensure no pressure on dome flange) and repeat the rotating the dome to note the stopping points. 3. Turn all 4 screws down evenly and in a cross pattern (like lug nuts on a wheel) but again, do not tighten so that the dome can not be rotated. You just want the screws to apply minimal pressure and just kiss the flange so that you can still rotate the dome but this time with a slight resistance caused by the screws. 4. Rotate the dome while lifting and dropping the piston. Note that in the center of rotation, the piston will not bind. This is where you want the dome to be. 5. Once the dome is in the sweet spot, Turn all 4 screws down evenly and in a cross pattern (like lug nuts on a wheel). Be sure to give each only a 1/4 to 1/2 turn at a time. Continue lifting and dropping the piston to ensure all goes well. 6. After both domes are screwed down, do the drop test to ensure both fall at the same rate. 7. Add oil and the plunger then repeat the drop test to ensure both fall at the same time. Finally, when considering an oil, the important item to note is what the damper does: It only slows transitions of the piston to smoothly meter fuel. Here are the key transitions: 1. Engine vibrations: without the damper, the pistons would shake in the dome and wear it out the edges. 2. Road bumps: without the damper, the pistons would clunk up and down when going over bumps and dips causing the fuel flow to change radically in short bursts. 3. Acceleration: the damper reduces the fuel metering during acceleration by keeping the needle deeper in the fuel jet orifice. Another opposite effect of the delayed piston rising is the increase of fuel flow caused by the manifold vacuum creeping forward of the throttle plate to draw more air over the annular fuel puddle. This also increases the venturi pull of the fuel as more air is now flowing over the bridge and through the smaller opened area above it. The net effect is more fuel during the acceleration stage but not too much. 4. Deceleration: the damper increases the fuel metering during deceleration by keeping the needle higher in the fuel jet orifice. Another opposite effect of the delayed piston falling is the decrease of fuel flow caused by the manifold vacuum being stopped completely in the throat by the closed throttle plate. The result is less air to draw from the surface of annular fuel puddle as the venturi pull of the fuel is low (Less air is now flowing directly over the bridge and through the very large opening area above it. The net effect is reduced fuel during the deceleration stage but not too little. Ultimately the damper oil you chose will only be noticed during acceleration. Thicker oil will enrich the acceleration mixture, thinner oil will lean the acceleration mixture.

Manual says: Use Mobil SAE 10w30 for damper oil, do not use SAE 30 or higher weight oils

Since we're on the topic, I feel like someone may have mentioned this before. But I can't recall now. What is the purpose of these brackets on the lower radiator support panel? The photo is car HS30 00836 - yes she's seen better days...

And... I just checked this, and the private messenger is correct. The original diagram from the 77 FSM has the magnet clutch connected to the blue wire and the BCDD cut connected to the white/black. It looks like a simple matter of mislabeled solenoids, because also in the original FSM, the A/C clutch is above the BCDD, and the BCDD is above the thermal transmitter. On your doc, the BCDD is above the A/C clutch. If you leave all the wiring alone and simply swap the labels between the BCDD and A/C clutch, everything will be correct.