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Installed a 5 speed today. A 280zx close ratio. thanks to my wife for manning the floor jack. Turned the flywheel, new clutch, seals and pilot beating. Don's iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Headed to Dallas tomorrow to pick up my Z! Yippee. The quote from my B-I-L: "Hey man, come get this Z before I start restoring it". Have to oblige.

I was 23 when I bought my 1972 Z for a really great price of $4144. It was the most I had ever paid for a car that is now considered a classic. The car was in perfect condition when I got it. I still have the Z today with no plans to ever sell it. I turn 69 this year.. Then . Now Phil Smith

Here are some more photos from the 2017 Mitty. I am in silver #176. The photo in the rain was the Sunday afternoon race. Scott Curry is in #181. I eventually passed him in this race. We were the only 2 Datsuns that stayed to race in the rain.

Hi, I'm into Datsun's, RX-7's and aircooled VW's. I own a '73 240Z two RX-7's and a Beetle. I love Datsun's in general. I'm pretty much obsessed with my Z car and I'm gradually adding to it and getting it closer to how I want it to be. I post pics of all my cars and other stupid stuff on Instagram quite a bit. The main thing is to enjoy the cars as much and as often as possible.

Just a heads up. Greyhound Package Express is a lot cheaper than UPS or FEDEX. One does have to deliver and pick up from the bus station but it's well worth it. Example, rear hatch glass, Portland to Denver, $63.00 and a very clean tank that shall remain unidentified, Portland to New York, about the same price.

I understand where you're coming from Mike.....but I'm looking for inertia.......me and Eiji have an ongoing friendly competition going on in straight line racing.

Drove the Z in today. Flat spot is totally gone with the 34's ! I'll monitor my wideband for a while and see if tweaks are needed, but, overall the car seems to run really well!

Have you ever considered getting a used head with the stock cam and having it rebuilt by a reputable local engine shop? I still think the root cause of this problem is the California Datsun / Datsun parts LLC engine and head combination that you're running. You're throwing good money at bandaids and not fixing the cause of the overheating. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

I agree with Site, I check the part numbers up on a factory site like Courtesy or Nissanparts.cc and see if it is available. I then go to my local Nissan dealer and order it. Usually sales tax is less than the shipping charge from Texas (Courtesy), at least for me in WA. Nissan still has a lot of parts available, you just have to check before buying an overpriced part on Ebay. I made a deal with my local Nissan dealer so he sells me parts at the internet rate, instead of the retail they usually sell at. Worth asking for IMO. A trans pilot bushing they quoted $15+ MSRP for, I bought for $3.77 with the internet price. Just saying they jack up the price for the unsuspecting.

Reconditioned Nikki fuel pump for 240Z. Thoroughly cleaned and lightly polished, new oil seal, new diaphragm, all fittings replated. Valves and diaphragm tested for proper operation. $235 shipped within CONUS. Payment via PayPal.

OK, as I suspected, it's an example of custom/privateer fabrication making use of the factory-installed captives in the rear header rail. I guess it proves what they *could* be used for, and may well have been planned by the factory to be used for, but (as far as I'm aware) they didn't. As mentioned - I think - way back, there were at least two different positionings for the two vertical drops in the factory roll over bar/'safety bar'. There was the 'normal' gap width (as seen on the circuit race cars and the Sports/Race Option parts sold to the general public) and the factory Works rally cars, which had a wider gap between the vertical drops, to allow them to carry two spare wheels/tyres. I think the gap between the two sets of captives corresponds to one of the above, but I'd have to go to the garage to check....

Carbs are on. Have to shorten the accelerator torsion arm to fit the linkage. And get them tuned properly. A few things had to be modified to fit.

It was 1991 and I didn't have much money, but there was an ad in the Sacramento paper for a 1976 280Z for $900. Seemed affordable. It had been from Nevada and well sand blasted, the alternator didn't work, and it needed fluids. I drove it home, 120 miles on the battery. The previous owner had engine work done and two months later I swapped the motor with a used engine. That car got me through college and was a daily driver for years until I allowed the head to crack, totally my fault. Sat for another few years as a yard ornament till my daughter needed a car in high school. Seemed like a fun father daughter project. Rebuilt motor, new interior, bushings, suspension, tires, stereo, etc. That became her high school car for a couple years. She went to college and I got my car back to being a daily driver. Good times! Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Obviously, we really don't want to do that to a Zed, but on a MX5.... Following up on the suggestion of a Bluetooth-operated immobilizer, here is a writeup of one that is wireless, and practical. This item is an alternative wireless device. Both could easily be used as a way to disable an electric fuel pump. Sorry, but for you owners of the early models, you'll have to disable the ignition, unless you can get an electric fuel cut off valve.

There was plenty of door-to-door racing, too.

Photos from today.

Would love to see some pics......He'll win too! Gorgeous car.

A little Artistic Fun. Fake Retro Ads. 300zx in 1971?

Since you don't know the history, and it doesn't run well enough to tune, your best path is to verify that the various rotating parts are timed correctly. Hatepotholez is going through the same situation and just found that his damper pulley might have slipped, for example. I would start with the ignition timing mark on the damper pulley at zero and verify that the cam shaft is in the proper orientation, the rotor in the distributor is pointing at the correct electrode, and the plug wires are properly placed. 1-5-3-6-2-4, counterclockwise, like site's picture. Then rotate the engine by hand and check valve lash, correcting any that are off. The older engines are known for worn valve seats due to unleaded fuel. That could cause some backfires, or popping back through the intake (some people call that front-fire, I think). They're also known for throwing lash pads, which would cause the valve not to open fully. Anyway, you've spent enough time on it to justify starting from zero. Set all of those things once, and you won't have to wonder about them.

Working on it! I'll post a video of it once it's running