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Original IKI S30 long stalk fender mirrors! Managed to source a pair! I think I should do a post together with the beautiful Zstory stainless steel exhaust system with racing headers soon about new parts I got! Sent from my ONEPLUS A3003 using Classic Zcar Club mobile

finally!! car is running good. got the webers synchronized and it seems that all the jetting is fairly good, but i wont know for sure until i get it out on the road under a load. one sensor for the front 3 cylinders and one for the back 3. this is at idle

One more interesting device is, the electric valve for preventing dieseling. This work has done by the Nissan dealer, there is a memo of the original owner. "the engine still running after switched off when it is hot, need to be fixed" Then the dealer installed the device, you see the valve and extra tubes from the SU carbs, sucking fuel which should not go into the air cleaner box after the engine shut down. Wiper grommet new too ! Kats

Why do you want an aftermarket? The stock exhaust seems to flow well enough to make really good horsepower...

here is the link http://datsunzgarage.com/weber/

It's been awhile. Finally I re-start working on this. Remove bell house of 71C tranny and try to remove bearing. AS Zed Head mentioned, it really hard to pull bearing since there is no space for puller. At first, philip driver to open up a bit space.. Then, use hammer to open up more space... Finally, use puller to remove bearing. installation of 71b bearing is no problem.

I think if you study the story of the Ford GT40, you will find that nothing was "easy" and that the true heroes of the Ford GT40 story were John Wyer Automotive, not Ford. I recommend John Horseman's book; "Racing in the Rain". Ronnie Spain's; "GT40, Individual History and Race Record" is also great if not a little outdated. "By Brooks Too Broad for Leaping", by Denise McCluggage is superb. How about "Cannonball" by Brock Yates or "Sunday Driver"? I recently read Brian Redman's book; "Daring Drivers Deadly Tracks". Excellent. Last March I saw John Fitzpatrick at Sebring and bought his new book; "My Life at the Wheel".

exhaust Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Some of the blending along the frame rails.

The popping on deceleration is unburnt fuel leaving the combustion chamber into the exhaust system & combusting (burning) due to the heat in the exhaust. I solved mine by removing all of my smog gear, capping off the air galley and leaning out the carbs. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Gold wheels can look cool, but I think the fad is all but passed. They look good on blue Subarus.

I know these things dies a natural death for a reason. The clear 3M film was the final Le-nail in the Le-coffin. Well then I'll put it on facebook as the coolest retro Z accessory ever and it will sell in a heart beat to a nice unsuspecting youngster.

When I purchase the NOS MK63 calipers I did not know they were for the vented rotors. Once received and additional parts sourced I am happy as a clam! I had a set of the non vented on my race car back in the day and boiled the fluid more than once. Black Hawk Farms was famously hard on brakes. I wish I had a set of vented back in the day, but will have to settle for being lucky enough to have sourced a set now and lucky for having a member who sourced the additional parts in Japan for me.

(in bold) That's the point though. The drilling that leads to the bleed nipple is straight, but the other drillings are angled. You'd end up with the angled drilling that leads to the bleed nipple missing it by quite a margin when the halves were re-joined, and the O-ring counterbore not big enough to cover the difference. Feel free to give it a try though...

Well the answer to the "why would you" is... "Because I have 'A', but what I really need is 'B' and even though I understand that it might not be a financially intelligent solution, and one that some people might consider foolhardy, (if it works) it could get me out of my current bind." I'm not suggesting it's a financially viable solution. I'm just curious. About the angled fluid holes... If the angle is the same (mirror imaged) on both halves of the clamshell, then the angle doesn't matter. If you take the same amount of material off both sides, both holes will move the same amount and still line up with eachother in the end. New O-ring counterbore in the new location, and you should be good. And since the O-rings and their counterbores are larger than the fluid holes, they also compensate for some amount of misalignment of the fluid holes. I suspect they utilized that fact in the original design to account for manufacturing tolerances.