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Enough for today. I will flip the car and finish the welding tomorrow. Looks way better than I thought it would!....

I wouldn't be surprised if the switch was added to replace a bad fuel pump relay. I would start by removing all the custom work and getting things wired up properly then run through the EFI tests as suggested.

I've been living under a rock. Z-con is coming to me. Wow... New Years resolution... Put this thing together for the show....

Interesting! I read in a post from KATS they did hill testing in 1969 in San Francisco. I guess it would be a side-hill-gouger modification https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sidehill_gouger

On acceleration, briefly, I understand why they would do it and I never had a problem but pulling a big hill is a different story. One beautiful sunny day I got about a fourth of the way up Alabama's highest mountain and the car started running on one carb. I had to roll backwards and cut the wheel to level the car while the bowl filled back up to go further up the mountain. I did this 4 times and knew what was happening so no big deal to me but the sweet young lady that was sitting next to me got worried then a little scared she was gonna be walking home. Now if she was a little older, she would've known we could coast back down the mountain. Trade-offs, at my age I'll do anything to get up that mountain.

I had installed an MSA short shifter kit about a year and a half ago and noticed that the rod supplied by MSA was curved differently from the stock shifter which positioned it about 2.5 inches forward from the stock neutral position, The first pic shows the forward position of the short shifter with the car in neutral. The second picture compares the new black rod to the superimposed chrome OEM rod. This forced me to stretch forward to shift into first, third and fifth gear, and to pull the knob backward with the tips of my fingers when downshifting into second and fourth gear. So even though I liked the feel of the short throw associated with this shifter rod, the experience was tolerable but definitely not comfortable. Called MSA and they said most people had no complaints but other people had in fact decided to bend the rod. I could not find references in the forum. I finally decided to take my center console apart once again and take out the shifter. Using the chrome stock shifter as the model I heated the MSA rod and gave it two different bends and one twist until the correct form was achieved. After a little polishing and a couple of coats of satin black lacquer I'm ready to mount again in a much more ergonomic position. I'll post final pics tomorrow and report on the degree of comfort.

That's exactly what mine was doing, hanging on the flimsy needle. I had thought of trying to find a different float that wouldn't have to be bent to such an angle as mine was. I got so frustrated a couple of months ago I put the OE Nissans back in. Long valve in front, short in the rear. Drove it until the cold weather finally got here and started back trying the ztherapy valves. The rubber tip on the 42 year old Nissans were squashed out around the edge. Thanks again, Cliff.

I drilled the long ear to match short - done Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

@siteunseen I stopped trying to make the long ear / long needle valve float lids work in my 3 screw carbs. I use two short lids (borrowed from an extra set of carbs) so they end up working like the 4 screw carbs. I spent an enormous amount of time about two years ago really focusing on getting the floats set right. With the long ear lid, I was never able to get the float set so that the meniscus hit the top of the jet at 10 turns down. BTW, I don't pay any attention to where the fuel level sits in the bowl. For me, removing the domes and setting the levels at the jet tops (10 turns down) makes more sense and gives me more repeatable results- ie: both carbs end up adjusting in the 2-2.5 mixture screw turn range. I use a Color Tune also to help set the mixture screws. I am sure others have figured out how to make the long ear lids work but for me, it just feels like a design flaw. Essentially, with the long ear lids, I am never able to achieve the 10mm mark and the angle of the float is at such a severe angle that I believe the float is hitting the wall of the float chamber.

How badly damaged is the original plastic tank? Can it be repaired with a fiberglass cloth patch job? Dennis

Front carb needs fuel level to be about 2 mm lower than rear carb to get equal fuel height at the nozzles, due to tilt of the engine, so they used longer valves. Otherwise the front float has to be bent oddly (P.O. did that to my car). which could make setting the floats even harder than it already is. The float needs to be sitting just right in the bowl or it can hang up on the side. IIRC, the ZTherapy video mentions using washers if you don't have the long valve, haven't tried that though. But if it works, it works.

So I have left this opening between the rails to hopefully drain any moisture that gets into the frame rails. This will be the lowest point on the frame and the connecting panel has 1/16" of space facing the rear of the vehicle between the floor rail and connecting rail. This should allow an egress point without giving it an ingress point...

The BSR280ZXTT old wheel (they went to a bigger rim size due to a lack of available tires two years ago) with the BBS wheel and brake vane cover. Last person to run this tire was Steve Millen at The Glen with SVRA.

Tomorrow will be the final fitting and welding after I get the frame coat paint on. I will be adding a jack plate to the bottom of the front floor pan section. 1/4" steel plate should do nicely!

Well, I worked on the structural joining piece between the front frame rails and the floor pan rails today. I used the mock up cardboard method plus a lot of measuring and test fitting. The parts turned out pretty good and I am close to getting it all welded up together.

I am an automotive engineer at Ford Performance. About 15 years ago when K&N filters were all the rage, we tested K&N filters as well as various paper filters for both flow and filtration abilities. The stock Ford high performance paper filters flowed better and did a much better job catching fine particles than the K&N filters. We didn't do this testing to prove how good we are, we did it because if the K&N tested better, we would have sourced them. Our 526 HP, 8250 RPM GT350 uses a paper filter because it breathes better. A K&N filter relies on oil to catch the dust and if the filter has too much or too little oil, it will either choke flow or allow debris to pass through. No thanks... BTW, you don't see desert racers or off road motorcycles used K&N filters either. As for K&N's making more power, they are almost always paired with a cold air intake which does indeed make more power than a restrictive OE airbox. Then again, try passing any kind of water fording testing with a cold air intake and see how long the engine lasts. Aftermarket intakes are great, but they come with caveats.