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So I have discovered an important issue. Eastwood Internal Frame Coating is not weld friendly... coating after welding is best. Any frame coat that interferes with the weld point will make the weld spatter and actually repel the penetration of the weld... lesson learned.

Here's an option I've considered before…...

Mine have turned into garage cars to. I've figured out I enjoy working on mine more than driving them. I like cold beer so I have low mileage cars, not DUIs.

Sorry, my imagination took a detour when I read that. "There they were in the garage , sitting all warm an cozy in their satin undies………" Maybe I shouldn't look at the boobs thread anymore…….

Yep, couple bucks at Homedepot.

Update, I have put 57 miles on it since I cleaned the coolant mess. Just climbed up under to look at things. The oil pan does not seem to be leaking. But I do have the coolant leaks I described in a couple posts back. The worst being between the head and block (I think) on the drivers side rear. It is also oozing along the HG on the passenger side between #3 & #4 cylinders, and running down the block. I thought usually that meant warped head. I have never overheated the motor so why would it be leaking there? Almost forgot to mention I noticed my speedo cable is leaking also . Not from around the speedo pinion but at the cable itself. Unscrewed it from the pinion and noticed a little rubber gasket in there. It was soaked with tranny oil. Is there a replacement that anyone knows of for that little gasket. I can't find any info on it. I hope I don't have to replace the cable.

Brilliant! Plus I'll bet your car wont be seeing the road salt and other crap it saw in its first 40 years.

It's good you figured it out I use a weldable rattle can primer for those areas and then come back and use frame coating with the nozzles. Like the pro at the paint store told me, the car lasted 40 years. I am doing way more than the factory did. Should outlast me and my kids!

Cool. If I'd have slathered that stuff on, I'd need to add some additional dash mounting points to support the weight. I'm picturing a cable from the clock up to the rear view mirror mounting screws...

No, the new studs are now proper length, the pic above shows how much thread is engauged in each case, the stock studs are technically not long enough for after market aluminum mags although I'll bet most of us have driven thousands of miles under the same conditions. Like this, Seems a shame to cut such a small piece off of a full rocker panel but then I haven't taken the car down to bare metal yet so who knows what other rot I will find it comes back from the dippers.

One more way to skin a cat, so to speak . . . http://petrolicious.com/cleaning-a-classic-car-with-dry-ice-is-actually-a-thing

Welder questions: I know I have not answered specifically but I thought pictures might help... Wire gauge is .6mm mild steel

Too clean. Too sterile, neat, tidy. You're missing drips and runs in the paint. Splotches! We must have splotchy paint! And splatters. It's the splatter that matters!

Yellow means it is installed correctly and torqued to spec. My S2000 has these all over. The colours on the springs are for location and type/spring constant.

Here are some pictures I have, Dan. These two are from a car Mike McGinnis did several years ago - a gold medallion car.