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Here's your shift knob in an AMCO ad, only $4.95! I have one just like it. Note that pic of the rear of the car has the "early style" hatch - I'll not call it a Series 1 lest I upset certain personalities.

Mr. K?

One of our largest national car parts supplier in Canada is Canadian Tire. I needed new front wheel bearings for #249 so I checked them out... "National Bearing" Made in China. I tried a local supplier and requested Timken. They could only obtain SKF:. Part # 18864 Inner Seal (Taiwan) Part BR2 (LM11949 / LM11910) Outer Bearing and Race (Japan) Par BR6 VP Inner Bearing and Race (Brazil)

Can't believe that I'm picking this up two years later. I took care of the tensioner, re-assembled everything and kept at it. Now the car has been together for more than a year, but I still don't have it on the road. I've gotten it running, but never gotten it to run smoothly - it misses like crazy whether cold or hot. Over the past eight months, I have checked the following: - Cam and chain timing are correct. - Distributor timing is correct. - Fuel injectors have been removed, bench and flow tested and re-installed. - New spark plugs, distributor cap and plug wires. - Fuel pressure and pressure regulator were tested and check correctly. - Fuel filter was replaced. - Each fuel injector connector has been tested and all are firing. - Traced all vacuum lines, replaced hoses and confirmed that all are connected. - Sprayed air intake path with starting fluid to confirm no vacuum leaks. About the only thing left that I can think of is bad fuel, although 3/4 of the tank is gas less than 6 months old. However, after sitting for 3 years, the tank may have some debris or varnish. My plan is to bypass the fuel tank, connect a fuel line from the fuel pump intake to a 5-gallon can of fresh fuel, then start it and see if the fresh fuel gets rid of the miss. Comments??

This link might help..... http://www.66batmania.com/trivia/bat-fight-words/ Dennis

Koyo has them to, and it's Japanese, but I ordered with a local supplier. You will have to look up the parts number interchange with skf

Put them on your car first if you think they are great.

while messing around on the z yesterday I noticed the lack of a dust cover on the tie rod. Looks like it just crumbled up and was gone. I know the standard course of action is to replace tie rods, but the car steers well and handled fine, and I did not want to mess that up, so... of to part store and I got some dust boots. There were the cheap looking dorman ones and then better looking urethane ones. I got both just to cover the bases. jack up front off comes the wheel, impact driver makes short work of the nut, then nothing. I do not have one of those forks used to separate tie rods, banging on the sides of the ball joint part did nothing. Then it hit me, chill it out. Using some dust off turned upside down I hit the tie rod end to freeze it (there by shrinking it some). It practically popped out on its own. I still plan to get a fork but its a nice stress free way of popping that loose. From there it went as expected, put on the boot, reinstalled pumped in some grease and good to go. I only got one done (learning curve will make the next go a lot faster). The rubber parts don't look too bad, and still had some give to them, but I did get some new TC bushings anyway, for when it gets cooler. I can only stand it about 1 hour now when its 95 feels like 105 in the garage.

Sorry i didnt see this message but looks like you've sorted it out yourselves anyway! Happy to sell you one if you are still keen though For anyone else looking at the thread my version of the circuit fits inside the clock and has reverse polarity protection too. Mine had some early stalling problems but by tweaking the output we managed to pretty much cure it. With the self rectifying nature of the signal we felt the pot wasn't necessary either with the Quartz driven signal. My friend Wayne was the electronics guy so i don't know enough to provide a better explanation than that.

I really hate that for you. There are a lot of variables at play here ... What year? Numbers-matching? 1-owner? 2-owner? What's original and what's not? Any prior body work? Original paint or respray? Everything there? Documentation? I'd insist on meeting the appraiser at the car with the answers to these questions and I'd say things like "You know it's going to be impossible for me to find another 46 year old car just exactly like this one ... orange ... I only like the orange ones ... and in this good of shape ... especially with just 46,000 original miles!", "My daughter was born in this car.", whatever ... just don't use the word rust or even admit the car has any. If I assume the whole car is as nice as the exterior "before" picture you posted and it was a 71-72 without the rust, I would be looking for them to pay me $20K for the car plus $2K expenses for me to find one ... probably in California ... and get it shipped home plus $2K "pain and suffering" because the car is 'my baby' ... so, $24K ... I'd round up to $25K. I wouldn't tell them all that, I'd just say I can't replace it for anything less than $25K. It's so easy to find comparable cars on the interwebs at that price or higher. I'd also be happy with $23K and the car, but I would not keep the car. Instead I would part it out or sell it whole to my Z friends and pocket the cash the scrap man would have made. You might not wan't to fool with it. At $25K I think most insurance companies want to settle and be done with you. You're insurance can also work on your behalf, but that would be my absolute last resort ... they will co-conspire to give you the driveshaft. It's a flippin 240Z man ... they owe you!

Is that Zeezus?

Arne approves....

Ah, I didn't know this was @Arne's car! Looking great!

Hey, I just realized that you own Arne's old car. Glad to see you joined the club and that the car is alive and doing well. Looks like that was a great trip. Marty

After the picture of the moose was taken it turned, looked at the camera and wandered off into the trees. Those switchbacks look like fun.

Wow, just read this first thread from many many years ago. Here's an undated pic.