Tomcat

Yes, they’re trapped by the float lid. What I’m asking about is the pair of circular holes where the metal part of the float attaches to the lid. I can wiggle the floats a lot around the pin which I’m wondering if that accounts for my difficulties with the level.

I've skimmed the long threads on setting the floats but a simple answer (if there is such a thing?) would help. After I do the 9/16 breath test, I went to double check it with a clear sight tube and it was pretty far off. I tried for hours to bend the tang to where the level in the sight tube was making very, very minor adjustments to the float tang but it would overshoot or undershoot every time. Is this normal? One thing I noticed was that where the pivot pin went through the (picture attached) there is a lot of play. Could that be the source of my problems? --Thomas

Thanks siteunseen. I'll go back and watch the video. Since I was ordering the banjo filters, I also bought this sight glass tool from ZcarDepot because I was never 100% confident that the fuel level was correct using the 9/16 drill bit method and it was only $7.99. If I'm following correctly, with the bowl as full as the floats will let them get, I measure 20 mm down from the top edge of the bowl (below the gasket surface). That seems to add up as the distance between the top of the inside of the bowl lid to the bottom edge of the gasket is approx. 3 mm, so 23 mm minus those 3mm gets me the 20 mm and I do a fine adjustment from there? I have a Gunson Colortune unless there is a more reliable but simple method. It seems like every answer leads to another question but it forces me to dig and search and I am thankful to everyone here to verify or even correct me when I'm about to take a wrong turn!

Sorry to be away so long. I've been working on an old Chevy truck and just now getting back to the Z. I think I did or verified almost everything you guys have suggested. I went ahead and bought all new ignition parts ... coil, dist. cap, rotor, points, capacitor, plug wires, etc. because they were either old or original, not very expensive, and I felt it was the path of least resistance. So I start on the fuel side. I have fresh gas, a new fuel filter, and verified I'm pushing fuel through the fuel lines. So next I think my carbs are OK ... they're original and ran well before it was off the road for some time and did a very basic cleaning. I did find this article very helpful because it is so basic and straightforward that I, a entry-level mechanic at best (certainly for the Z) https://zcarguide.com/tuning-adjusting-datsun-240z-su-carburetors/ was able to follow it step-by-step. So I set about trying to set the float level and I'm blowing through the fuel inlet and adjusting the float to the shut off at 9/16 drill bit level but they are both hard to blow through and one is a lot harder than the other so I think there is a clog somewhere. I check the float bowl needle valve and they seem OK and I'm suspicious about the part that connects the fuel line to the float needle valve and start looking and poking around ... not really sure what the inside path looks like so I decide to open it up. I had tried once before and the bolts were so tight that I thought I might damage the whole assembly so I never looked inside. So I decided "what the heck" ... it's suspicious and something I've never checked so I soaked it in penetrating oil and cranked on it ... all the time waiting for something to break and this is what I found. After I scraped off as much as I could I wasn't even sure what I was looking at when I found the two aluminum (?) rings and what looked a piece of tape or a thin piece of beef jerky. I didn't even know that there were filters in there and I'm really amazed that the car would start at all. I've cleaned all the parts and ordered new filters and when the get here I will go through all the steps starting again at ground zero. I'll post back after that but I'm thinking that was the main issue all along. I know it's a long post but I thought that someone else out there might run across similar symptoms and not know about these little filters ... or maybe I'm the only one?

I did verify the compression stroke with my thumb plugging the #1 sparkplug's hole that I read about on here. I was silly of me not to check the spark but didn't because it at least tried to run before. Now I don't think I'm getting any spark out of the coil so that's where I'm headed next. I'll double-check that the plug wires are correct and check the timing once I'm getting a spark. Does the 3rd picture indicate that the static timing is currently set 10 degrees BTDC if I truly am on the compression stroke and the timing pointer lines up like the second picture. Just to make sure, is there's any chance that the distributor's internal shaft being 180 degrees out of where it was when I removed it could be a problem ... It just rotates the cam, correct? I appreciate all of your help!

Hi, my Z has been off the road for several years and I was able to get it started but it would stumble horribly, backfire, and die so I decided to go through the basics and now I've been able to make so much progress that it will not start at all. These are the things I did before it would barely run. Drained tank and filled with new gas, new fuel pump, new fuel filter, new fuel soft lines, very basic disassembly and cleaning of carbs, replaced needles and seats, adjusted bowl floats with help from Z-therapy, new spark plugs and adjusted the carburetor nuts down 1.5 turns. I did read a post, from someone here I believe, that most problems we thought were carburetor were actually not so I set about trying to check/adjust the timing. This is what I did: Found what I believed to be TDC by turning the harmonic balancer nut with a wrench until #1 piston was at the highest point on its compression stroke. I did this by inserting a rod in the spark plug hole and watching for it to be pushed out by the cylinder as far as it goes. The timing pointer did line up with deepest mark on the pully and the distributor rotor pointed at the #1 plug wire. I decided to replace the points and here is where it gets iffy ... I thought I had dropped a washer down inside the distributor and so I completely removed it but it turns out that I didn't. While it was out, I cleaned it a little and then reinstalled it and set the points to 0.50 mm. While the distributor was out I did spin the distributor shaft and may have reinstalled it where the slot that mates with the shaft tang was 180 degrees off from where it was when it was removed. I don't know the internals of the distributor so, would that have made a difference as long as I reinstalled the button correctly so that it pointed at the #1 plug wire? Also, I don't believe it is a fuel issue because I used to be able to squirt a little gas directly into the carbs and it would fire up and run a few seconds off of that. I've attached pictures of how things look when I believe I am at TDC. While it was out I did notice some play between the part of the distributor where the points sit and the shaft tang mates but it seem to be under spring(?) tension because when you release it from a twist it snaps back to its original position. The other thing is that I don't think the shaft tang was at the 11:25 position but more like 12:00. (The shaft tang picture is not mine but from another post.) If that is the case, does that point to what I should do next? Thank you for taking the time to read all of this and I would appreciate any tips on next steps or correcting something I missed or made a mistake on so far.

Hello, Sorry if I'm rehashing but I can't find exactly my situation and this seemed the closest thread. Stock '71 240 sat for about 5 years but y'all have me back running and driving but not running well at all ... stumbling acceleration and backfiring. Taking the bowl covers off, the rear was almost bone dry and I tracked that down to a clog of crud in the rear throttle body that I've cleared. While I was that far anyway, I cleaned everything and am putting it back together now but having a problem with the piston/chamber operation. I believe I've kept the parts in their original sets. I have not adjusted anything to do with the needle or nozzle. Here's what I've run into now: Without oil, both pistons move up and down freely on or off the car but when I add any weight of oil, one of them has a good feel when pushed up but the other has a very heavy resistance. I can only describe it as one taking a "1 count" to move one up with moderate pressure on the bottom of the piston and the other taking a "3 count". Since adding the oil started the problem, I swapped the plungers and the trouble travelled with it making me think it is the fit of the plunger with the cavity of the piston that contains the damper oil. I gently cleaned the plunger with no new results and now I'm stuck. Any good next steps? Thanks in advance, --Thomas A side question, just to be sure, the flow to the bowl fully shuts off at 9/16 (562.5/1000) or that is where the when the pin just touches the float lever and begins to close off the supply.

I realize it's an old thread but I often get tips that are years old so I thought I would add what worked for me. The car was sitting on jackstands for 5+ years in the Alabama humidity. I had replaced the master, slave and line between them then did an old-fashioned 2-person bleed. The pedal was very firm but the clutch would not disengage and I couldn't grind into any gear. This is what I did in order, not knowing which steps were helpful or not but I was eventually able to get it unstuck: Changed the transmission fluid. Pressed the cutch pedal down and pinned it to the floor with a stick and let it sit overnight. Let the car fast idle for about 15 minutes to warm everything up. Pumped the pedal twenty or so times. Tried pushing the car in 4th with no luck. While still warm and turned off, I put the car in first gear and bumped the starter without it starting and the car lurched forward a few feet each time. On the forth or fifth time it broke loose and didn't hear or smell any signs that I damaged anything. Hopefully this will help someone in the future. --Thomas

Sorry for the slow reply. Yes, "Krud Kutter". Either it was mostly rust or I let it set too long. grannyknot, let me know if you have one.

Completely disolved the ring. I see the kits around $60 on-line. If you have a used one for less please let me know.

Thanks Mark. Will do. What is its function?

Hi, I'm trying my hand at restoring a steering wheel and can't determine the function of this metal ring. It is a little rusty but I can't seem to remove it (that woild be nice) but if it doesnt matter I will leave it as is. --Thomas

I don't see Harada on it anywhere like there is on my 240. I have the drain tube, mounting bracket, and most (I believe) of the mounting hardware ... they were just off in the pictures. Thank you, Thomas

Thanks! Yes, once I found the post a few minutes ago that the case was ground and one wire was up and the other wire was down. I had been putting 12V across the two wires in both directions with nothing but a few sparks. Luckily, it doesn't seem to have hurt it and I also see the order of mounting hardware on here which is very helpful.

Hey, I bought this as part of a lot of 240Z parts but not sure if or what year(s) Z it is correct for. The number 4030 is the only marking I can see. Thanks for any help. --Thomas

That matches what I found at http://datsun1200.com/modules/mediawiki/index.php?title=D412 once I kept digging. I had hopes it was a Series 1 for resale value but good to know what its correct fitment is. Thanks to all of you for the help. S30 240Z 22100-E4601 L24 MT -0871 22100-E4603 L24 MT 0971-0672 <> 22100-E4601 22100-N3300 L24 MT 0772-0773 22100-E8000 L24 AT 0870-0672 D61 22100-N3305 L24 AT 0772-0773

Hi, I live close to Huntsville, AL and have an Feb. 71 car that is temporarily off the road due to a gas leak at the tank. You're welcome to come look at it and take pictures, etc. Otherwise ... depending on how long "a few weeks" is ... stay in touch and I'll head that way once I get the leak sorted out. If it matters, my car seems to be at the break between Series 1 and series 2 and as far as I know is original except I have removed the A/C and some of the bits off of the balance tube.

View Advert NOS Distributor I could use some help with with what vehicle this fits. I've believe it is for a 240 and tried to sort it myself but cannot find anything definitive. I would want the buyer to pay the actual shipping cost. Thanks, Thomas (Sorry to post twice. I couldn't see a way to edit the original ad.) Advertiser Tomcat Date 08/01/2019 Price Category Parts for Sale

View Advert NOS Distributor Before I post this I could use some help with with what vehicle this fits. I've tried to sort it myself but cannot find anything definitive. Thanks, Thomas Advertiser Tomcat Date 08/01/2019 Price Category Parts for Sale

Hi, I need the original Nikki fuel pump and of course the am radio.

@siteunseen Hi, I sent him a message. --Thomas

Thank you EhlersRS/Robert S. I would appreciate your help every so often because sometimes I don't know what is correct for my car ... what is original, added, changed or missing. Mine is -23692 originally yellow but painted red. The only rust I've found so far is a dime-sized hole under the battery tray. --Thomas

My car is a 2/71 production date. I have my heat/vent control system apart because the levers were either hard to move or wouldn't move at all. I have cleaned and greased the cables and getting ready to reassemble everything. I found a period correct AM radio and am installing it as well. My question is what, if anything, attaches or mounts to the two holes in the attached photo. The holes are threaded. Thanks for any info, --Thomas

ajmcforester, I hope you don't mind me reopening such an old thread. I am trying to repair/replace the antenna on my 2/71 240Z. My question is how does the line attach to the mast? As you can see from the picture, they were separated so that the mast would go up but not always down. Also, the tip is broken off so it may not even be worth the effort to repair it. I've seen two styles of tips ... a blunt tip and a pointed tip. If I have to look for a replacement, which style is correct for the motor I have marked "Harada 6424"? Thank you, --Thomas

Thanks to both of you. I'll hunt down some wire and give it a try.