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Here are the latest pics. The interior is coming along. Still some electrical to finish.

I found your What's it worth message. I think your price makes sense. Our cars are similar for different reasons. Mine doesn't have rust but could really stand to have the whole frame and radiator support clip forward of the front crossmember replaced. A few panels are a little wavy on mine too where it was hit in the rear quarters at one point. From 20 feet mine looks good. I am refreshing the interior, heater core, heater box, etc and then I am going to sell it. I rebuilt the cylinder head earlier this year and it runs good. Just not a car I want to keep forever. Thanks for sharing.

I thought that was Guy's place You need another garage.... those are investments.

OK, So then where are you, my friend???

Sorry for the delay in getting to this. I did mine in a product called "Kreem", it took two of them, as these are made for large motorcycle tanks. Like siteunseen said above, a wire to make sure the vents are open and high pressure air to make sure they stay open. A mirror on a stick and lots of light you can see for sure every inch of the interior. I have had no problems of any kind. I did mine in the spring of 06 and did not use it until the refurbishment was done in spring of 08 before it saw fuel. And that is the key to most of the failures that I have read about, not enough curing time. So make sure it is really hard before you add gasoline. Bonzi Lon

Thanks for the good thoughts from all--- I really appreciate them. I did not add to this thread to detract or change the mood--only to help explain my absence and lack of posting. Please do carry on and share the enthusiasm ZCON 2016 deserves. .I will look in from time to time to see the banter.

I put Gorilla Taped over the ends of all my tubes coming out of the tank. After emptying the coating out I blew through them with around 90psi of air. Waited 5 or 10 minutes and hit them again to be sure. Worked good for me.

Tell him if he'll send you $700 Western Union that you'll hold it for 72 hours for him to get down here in person (... just don't give him *any* financial information or personal information and make up a name. I suggest "Iyainta Dumaz"). I had a guy that said he was in Arizona try to get me to send him money like that to hold a car. Turns out he didn't even have a Z ... he had just copied the pictures and description from another legitimate ad and posted it on Craigslist. I found the real ad posted at a car dealership ... same car down to the license plate. If your guy is a scammer, he'll wonder if he's dealing with another scammer! Personally, I would talk to the guy just to yank him around a bit ... maybe offer to go into business with him. I've had two instances looking to buy a Z where the deal was too good to be true and ... double-duhhh ... it wasn't true! On the other hand, I bought my Z out of Austin Texas "siteunseen" and had it shipped to Alabama without ever meeting the owner. I felt pretty good that he was legit because he held the car for me for over a month and wouldn't take a deposit even though I offered one several times.

The Big-Dog Bad-Dog himself!

Maybe he meant $8000 Canadian dollars (which would be roughly $6K US)? On the other hand, it's hard to find a good, rust-free S30 in these parts. You and your cars offer a degree of being 'pre-vetted' and US $7000 isn't an extreme price. This guy may be just trying for a knock-out bid so that he can bypass many of the unknowns that are usually part of shopping for and buying a rust-prone type of car from a distance. I'd take the chance and hear him out. Maybe keep it to email, though, until you get a better feel for what he's about. We have just as many scam artists here in Ontario as there are in any other part of the world.

Here they are on eBay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-240Z-Taillight-Trim-1969-1973-/222206823249?hash=item33bc8f0b51:g:fTgAAMXQVT9Sqyf3&vxp=mtr

I posted this comment and then read zKars comment above, were saying the same thing I guess. Although there is a strong market for early numbers matching 1970 Z's, in order to get the $40,000-60,000 prices you would have to put at least that much into the car. If you do the work yourself and you are good at it you can break even or make a bit but your labour has to be free. Your car being made in May of /70 is a good example of a series 1 car but it's not really considered early. The most money is going for cars that are under the 00500 serial number. The outside sheet metal looks solid with no serious dents or dings and looks like a good candidate for dumping lots of money into I'm serious though. I just sold my 03/70 Z on ebay in the spring, got $19,400 for it. I spent 4 yrs restoring myself, I got my cash outlay back and maybe 2 cents an hour for my labour, but my labour is free and I had a great time working on it. On this forum the love of all things Z is almost spiritual, deity like. When someone comes on asking what their great buy is worth you can practically hear the teeth grinding (mostly because we didn't get to buy it before you) So don't be offended if we don't fawn over it. The best thing I can see about your car is that it doesn't look like it has been messed with too much, the engine bay although in rough shape looks original, the car looks like it may have had a respray in the past but quite original. Good luck with it, be nice to it. Chris

All I see on my screen is "Blah, blah, blah, blah, blah."

Was in Niagara Falls last night and just got to the Westin a couple minutes ago! Im going to cool off for a little and then stat looking for trouble. Errrrrr I mean entertainment. Went to Taps brew house in Niagara last night for dinner. Got some good pics of Nikola Tesla this morning and had breakfast at The Flying Saucer!!

I removed my EGR and the BPT valve. You have to remove the heat plate that's under the AAR valve with the two heater hoses and the vacuum switch then plug a vacuum hose that runs from the BPT valve to under the TPS to close the system back up. I have some pictures, when you get closer let me know and I'll post them up. Those broken studs, the first one and the last one, can be tapped and the next size exhaust stud put in. I bought mine from Nissan, it's for their 8 cylinder Titan pickup. Remove this heat plate and keep this AAR