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Restoration of BringaTrailer 240z - HLS30-35883


inline6

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10 hours ago, emccallum said:

I think the description says the door is in the car.  Just trying to help 🙂

Well there you go I didn't scroll down at all, as it is with most FB ad's I see. There was a picture of the "trunk" but no door in there. 

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Tip, so you dont make the same mistake I made. Double and triple check your wipers to make sure they are working correctly before putting on the blades. 

I hooked up the wiper arm to the motor in the wrong position and it caused them to work almost backwards. Make sure motor is in "park" then hook the arm to the motor. It can go on two different ways. Mine looks like this and works properly now!

20240204_115034.jpg

 

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40 minutes ago, emccallum said:

Tip, so you dont make the same mistake I made. Double and triple check your wipers to make sure they are working correctly before putting on the blades. 

I hooked up the wiper arm to the motor in the wrong position and it caused them to work almost backwards. Make sure motor is in "park" then hook the arm to the motor. It can go on two different ways. Mine looks like this and works properly now!

20240204_115034.jpg

 

Yep, I made that mistake before, and then I learned of the warning being posted in various places.

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I was able to install the quarter windows this past weekend.  

IMG_20240203_180453.jpg  IMG_20240203_180527.jpg  IMG_20240204_142757.jpg

IMG_20240204_142819.jpg  IMG_20240204_142905.jpg  IMG_20240204_142918.jpg

IMG_20240204_142944.jpg  IMG_20240204_143007.jpg  IMG_20240204_150405.jpg

 

I don't have quite enough door gap yet on the left side (last pic).  I will let the weather strip that goes between the quarter window and the body compress a bit over a few days, and then attempt again to push it back a bit more away from the door frame.  These windows can be difficult to install.  I find the best way to do it is to angle the back part of the window out from the fully seated position, and secure the window with the two front screws first.  Angling the back of the window out allows a bit more rearward movement.  Once the two front screws are in, tighten them to snug while pushing the window back as far as it will go.  You may have to push back pretty hard just to get the front bolts to align and thread.  

After snugging the fronts, push the back of the window inwards and thread the back two bolts in.  Then snug those.  If still too close to the door, wait a day or two and then loosen the screws, push the quarter window back further and retighten the screws.  

After I put these in, I shifted over to the rear hatch glass.  

IMG_20240204_155955.jpg  IMG_20240204_155951.jpg

IMG_20240204_160327.jpg  IMG_20240204_205058.jpg

I actually started cleaning up the wrong one at first.  It was a spare that came with the car when I bought it.  But, the etching showed July of 71, so I switched to the correct one, which shows May of 1971 (dot above P in TEMPERLITE (month) and S in ASAHI - year.

A couple of tips for cleaning windows... Using a window scraper and fresh razor blades is very helpful to get the glass clean of dirt and grime.  It will not scratch the glass not matter how aggressive you are with it.  I find a razor blade is very effective for removing "rain spots" or other stuck on "hazing" from dried water.  You may have to go over it many times, but it is pretty amazing how effective it is.  For final cleaning of "hard water deposits" #0000 steel wool is the ticket.  Again, the steel wool will not scratch the glass, and it is necessary to remove the final remains of hard water spots.  Also, when you are trying to get the inside of the hatch glass that clean, you can't use a razor blade and scraper unless you want to gamble with damaging the defroster lines.  Again, using the steel wool, you can go directly over the filaments.  It does a great job of getting stuck on crude that cleaning does not remove.

Finally, I wrestled with installing the rear hatch weather strip.  I did not expect it to be so difficult, but after about an hour I was able to get it on, but was a bit worn out from the effort.  😁

I also made some notable progress with the issues I have been having with the differential.  I am looking forward to getting that done, so I can install it and all the things that are being held up by it. 

 

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7 hours ago, inline6 said:

I actually started cleaning up the wrong one at first.

Have you checked the resistance (ohm) from the heating? Could be that your spare has a better resistance, It should be somewhere between 2 and 4-5 ohms.

I had to buy 4 rear hatch glasses before i had a really good one! (Less than 5 ohms and every stripe worked after checking with some steam on a cold glass)

Does your glass need some black glass adhesive (That black rubber compound that stays sort of liquid)  to make it water tight? I did some into the rear weatherstrip after i installed it.. (Not a brand new weatherstrip)

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You're bang on about the installing the quarter windows, tough job if you're not prepared.  I use the weather sealant as a lubricant as I push the window in, sometimes I use a lightweight cargo strap wrapping around the front of the window, through the air vent and back around on the inside and pull the window back a few clicks so I can get the screws in.

That's a good idea about using a razor blade on heavily etched water spots, I'm going to give that a try.

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2 hours ago, grannyknot said:

You're bang on about the installing the quarter windows, tough job if you're not prepared.  I use the weather sealant as a lubricant as I push the window in, sometimes I use a lightweight cargo strap wrapping around the front of the window, through the air vent and back around on the inside and pull the window back a few clicks so I can get the screws in.

That's a good idea about using a razor blade on heavily etched water spots, I'm going to give that a try.

I forgot to mention that I spray Windex on the body of the car before putting the quarter windows in place.  It lubricates the area so the rubber doesn't fight your attempts to compress it as much.

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