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grannyknot

Re keying door locks

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I was going through the locks today and realized that the ignition key locks the hatch but doesn't fit the two door locks, is there a way change or replace the tumblers  so as to have one key for everything?

Thanks

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Absolutely.  I took all of my lock cylinders to an automotive locksmith and he keyed them all the same.

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Can this be done on a series 1 car where the ignition key has teeth on the both edges, but the door, hatch and glovebox key has teeth on only one edge?

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2 hours ago, w3wilkes said:

Can this be done on a series 1 car where the ignition key has teeth on the both edges, but the door, hatch and glovebox key has teeth on only one edge?

the early cars didn't share the same key for ignition and locks.

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3 hours ago, Jason240z said:

the early cars didn't share the same key for ignition and locks.

I know, I have an early car now. Apparently the OP's car also doesn't share the same key for all locks either.

To tell the truth, I don't lock my car. I figure whatever gets stolen from inside my car is cheaper than trying to find a replacement for a broken window. About the only place it gets parked outside my garage is at car shows or fun runs.

My 73 240Z had one key for all locks.

Edited by w3wilkes

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On ‎1‎/‎23‎/‎2019 at 5:41 AM, dutchzcarguy said:

Oh.. so easy… if you're a handyman(!) ..  Take apart the non working locks.. take your key that works on everything else.. now put that key in the non working lock..(after you have taken it apart..) now look at the plates (about 4 ?) change the plates from place, so they are flat with the surface or almost.. now if you have made the combination as flat as possible take a grinder and grind them flat on the round cilinder.. can be done with a file but a grinder go's faster and easyer.. now put your locks together again…   Can't believe i tell these secrets!  😉 

I have several locks that need attention and would really appreciate some guidance on how take them apart.  Thanks.

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59 minutes ago, jfa.series1 said:

I have several locks that need attention and would really appreciate some guidance on how take them apart.  Thanks.

I tried to follow dutchxcarguy's advise but found on the two door locks that you can't take them apart without prying up and destroying the SS lock cover. But after farting around with them for a couple of hours I found the key did in fact work if I inserted the key all the way in and then pulled it out 1/8th of an inch.

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This past Monday, I had a locksmith rekey the hatch lock to match the rest of the locks.  They took it apart and reassembled with no adverse cosmetic effects to the as cover.   Some times, I have recognize that experience is the way to go, so I did not attempt the rekeying myself.  Took 30 minutes and cost $45.00

Edited by David F
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54 minutes ago, grannyknot said:

I tried to follow dutchxcarguy's advise but found on the two door locks that you can't take them apart without prying up and destroying the SS lock cover. But after farting around with them for a couple of hours I found the key did in fact work if I inserted the key all the way in and then pulled it out 1/8th of an inch.

I've done a number of locks now, and really the only PITA locks are the door locks because of that cover.  It's called a "face cap", and there are special tools (face cap pliers) available to bend the lip up and take the cap off. After you remove the face cap, it's easy to rekey the locks and then crimp the cover back into place. I've done this a couple times now and actually made myself a crude version of face cap pliers and I can now do it relatively easily.

The cap on the hatch locks is easy to get off, and the ignition and glove box locks don't have caps like that.

dutchxcarguy's thing is a cheap workaround. Kinda like grinding your valve lash pads to fit instead of buying and installing the correct parts. I don't think I would endorse such a modification, but maybe only because I didn't think of it.  LOL

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2 hours ago, jfa.series1 said:

I have several locks that need attention and would really appreciate some guidance on how take them apart.  Thanks.

Which locks? I've taken them all apart and probably have pics that would help.

Send me a PM?

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7 hours ago, Captain Obvious said:

dutchxcarguy's thing is a cheap workaround.

Mmmm.. i've got a new name...  maybe in april i change name Haha, that's when my 280zx slick top will be ready..  (or i'll have to ***** my painter… just kidding..)

On topic, the facia of the doorlocks are removable with some clockmakers screwdrivers (yes the small ones.)  later on you have some work to close them again.. but it can be done.

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Haha!! Yeah, once the ZX is ready, it'll be more appropriate!

I just copied from the post above mine.   LOL    Sorry!

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16 hours ago, Captain Obvious said:

Which locks? I've taken them all apart and probably have pics that would help.

Send me a PM?

Bruce,

This is an example of a S30 set needing attention: one door lock and the hatch lock are "gritty" - they don't operate smoothly and often catch, possibly from wear but I'd like to open them up for inspection and see if something can be fixed.  Any pics or tips would be appreciated.  PM or email OK.

Thanks,

Jim

Lock Set.JPG

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OK. I'll look through my pics and post a couple that would probably help.

In the meantime, here's a couple pics of a pair of face cap pliers that I hovered off the web some time ago. These are made by Gator tools and are way to expensive to use once or twice. You local locksmith should have a pair of something similar:
Car_Door_Lock_Cap_Removal_Tool.jpg

facecap pliers.jpg

Gator Facecap removal tool GT042b1.jpg

I made a crude pair out of a pair of slip joint pliers. I don't have any pics, but I'll take some and post what I did.

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Interesting to me that several of us are on the same wavelength or something---I'm on it too.

I've been staring at several complete set of locks on my desk that are in need refurbishing for several weeks. Was going to take them to a locksmith but really wanted to do it myself. I had saved links from several suppliers of the face cap pliers. The Gator brand for professionals is expensive-- ~$200.

This set from DHGate is much more reasonable, but is no doubt Chinese crap.

https://www.dhgate.com/product/new-model-car-door-lock-face-cap-plier-removal/396796240.html

May be worth it for the occasional use.

New face caps and cylinders can be had from ASP (Auto Security Products), but you have to be a locksmith to order. I could probably get a local locksmith guy to order for me. I have a somewhat rare pinning kit ordered (A-16-100) in case wafers (P-16-141/144 or P-16-151/154) and springs are damaged.

@Captain Obvious @jfa.series1

Has anyone sourced the dust shutters and associated springs? I have not been able to find those in any of the kits.

ASP sells new face caps (P-16-204 for the door locks) (P-16-208 for the hatch lock), but they come 25 to the pack---not sure yet how much they'd cost.

Here's a link to the .pdf of the complete catalogue, but I warn you---your scroll button will get a workout!

http://www.carlocks.com/2008ASPCatalog.pdf

Be happy you tinkerers!! LOL

 

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Yeah, the springs are a problem. Most of the lock parts are made out of either stainless or a non-ferrous alloy. One of the exceptions, unfortunately, are the springs. From what I understand, there are some grades of stainless that are suitable for making springs, but good ol' carbon steel has better spring characteristics. That is, of course, at least until they rust into little unidentifiable nuggets of what used to be springs.

Here's my hatch lock door. That little brown legless rusty lump in the middle of the picture is what's left of the original door spring:
P1010630.JPG

And for a fix, I harvested a couple springs from other door locks and was able to modify one of them to work as a replacement for the original. Here's a pic of some of the options I was working with. Original rusty nugget at the top and two options harvested from other sources at the bottom. I don't remember what the other sources were, but I have good reason to believe they were later Nissan products or from a Honda Civic:
P1010631.JPG

Based on the dates on the pics, it's been almost seven years since I was messing with this stuff, and I didn't do much writing about it at the time. So I have some pics, but the details are unclear at this point. I was definitely able to figure out a replacement option, but I'm not sure which donor spring I used. I have pics where I clipped the long one in half, but I'm not sure if that's what I finally ended up using:
P1010632.JPG

But for moral support... Here's a pic showing that whatever I did worked great!  LOL   :
P1010634.JPG

P1010635.JPG

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6 hours ago, Zup said:

Interesting to me that several of us are on the same wavelength or something---I'm on it too.

I've been staring at several complete set of locks on my desk that are in need refurbishing for several weeks. Was going to take them to a locksmith but really wanted to do it myself. I had saved links from several suppliers of the face cap pliers. The Gator brand for professionals is expensive-- ~$200.

This set from DHGate is much more reasonable, but is no doubt Chinese crap.

https://www.dhgate.com/product/new-model-car-door-lock-face-cap-plier-removal/396796240.html

May be worth it for the occasional use.

New face caps and cylinders can be had from ASP (Auto Security Products), but you have to be a locksmith to order. I could probably get a local locksmith guy to order for me. I have a somewhat rare pinning kit ordered (A-16-100) in case wafers (P-16-141/144 or P-16-151/154) and springs are damaged.

@Captain Obvious @jfa.series1

Has anyone sourced the dust shutters and associated springs? I have not been able to find those in any of the kits.

ASP sells new face caps (P-16-204 for the door locks) (P-16-208 for the hatch lock), but they come 25 to the pack---not sure yet how much they'd cost.

Here's a link to the .pdf of the complete catalogue, but I warn you---your scroll button will get a workout!

http://www.carlocks.com/2008ASPCatalog.pdf

Be happy you tinkerers!! LOL

 

Well, if you buy a pack of 25, use what you need, then divide the total cost by 25 + a reasonable percentage profit, and sell them to the community.  This way you got yours for free and no one is getting gouged...

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@Captain Obvious

Sweet!

Thanks for the excellent photos.

Tickle that aging ganglion a little more about the springs. I'll search around, but a verified suitable donor source would be great info to have.

1 hour ago, 240z70 said:

Well, if you buy a pack of 25, use what you need, then divide the total cost by 25 + a reasonable percentage profit, and sell them to the community.  This way you got yours for free and no one is getting gouged...

Getting something for free is not a part of any of my plans.

You're getting a little ahead of my intentions.

I'm only discussing sourcing of tools, parts and methods of refurbishment.

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Understood.  No insult meant.  But it is great to have someone who actually has sought after parts at a great price, and that person does deserve to reap a small benefit from providing those even if its only to pay for the original expenditure.  I dont think that anyone could claim that unethical after all someone had purchase the whole caboodle but might only need 3 or 4 parts.  Why not help the community and at the same time benefit a bit even if it is a small amount.  But if you did not have that intention, I fully understand and was not implying it, only commenting that it would be an excellent way for the whole community to benefit. 

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I'm in total agreement and apologize if I was a bit huffy.  :mellow:

This is the most beneficial community that I've ever found for sharing the experiences, knowledge and company of people like yourself, CO, Patcon, and quite frankly everyone here!

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8 hours ago, Zup said:

Tickle that aging ganglion a little more about the springs. I'll search around, but a verified suitable donor source would be great info to have.

Will do. I probably I didn't throw away the other little spring pieces*, so I might be able to determine which one is in the hatch lock by process of elimination.

When I get the chance, I'll take a look for my three lock box.

 

 

* I mean... Who ever throws out anything like that? My workshop indicates that I keep pretty much all of it.

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About the face caps... It's certainly easy to mangle a face cap beyond usability, but with careful removal, it is also possible to put the same one back on and crimp it back into place after messing with the rest of the lock guts.

I'm not sure if all the years are the same, but by the time they got to 77, the hatch face caps are easy. There are only three easily bendable tabs holding the face cap in place:
P1010940.JPG

P1010591.JPG

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