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captainkim@yahoo.com

the rear end clunk

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I know this has been discussed many times but I have the dreaded clunk in the rear when shifting gears.  I checked the motor mount and tranny mount and both look fine.

I video'd it and was hoping you could help me isolate the cause.....bearings, subframe mounts or driveshaft, etc?

 

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The dreaded clunk can come from a few places but check the easy ones first, diff mount at front of the diff and the strap that goes over top, also the mustache bar rubber bushings. Get a crow bar in there lever them to see if there is easy movement.

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I’ve learned to work the clutch around the clunk. I can make mine clunk at will , but I can also clutch finesse around it. I feel like I’ve done everything. I think my CV axle upgrade has too much slop in the joints .

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I did not see much of the typical diff movement that causes a clunk.  The worst clunks were at about 40 seconds and seemed to be more from inside the diff, like gear lash, or pinion pin play.  The half shaft didn't even move much on some of the clunks.  They do wear out.  Looks like an R180, which is weaker than the R200.

Take the cover off and you might find something.  Easiest just to drop the diff with the mustache bar attached, then remove the mustache bar, and the cover.

p.s. that's a lot of fuel hose dangling back there.  Reminds me of when the UPS driver flagged me down and said "there is a LOT of liquid dripping from the back of your car".  My fuel hose had split.  Luckily I was running distance from home and had some spare hose.

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Thanks to the clunk I got my car cheap. New trans mount or diff mount, or mustache  bar thing, forget what fixed it but after replacing all three it was gone. I understand how that might not be very helpful. Glad I took it to a good alignment shop instead of trying to do it myself. Got the parts at MSA. The shop had it all done in about two hours.

Edited by Stanley

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thanks all for the responses!!  bought this car because it had the s50 engine but now im debating if I want to go in that direction and put more money into this or just start over and stick to original..    ill try to take a look this weekend at the rear...hopefully its not serious.  I was thinking of r200, but as it stands now....the revs are high.as it is....4000RPM at 80MPH

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Ok....i went under the car and apparently it was the bolts connecting the rear diff to the bar.   They were barely hanging on for dear life!    well thank goodness that was all it was.   I ended up tightening everything else up.

 

while i was down there i noticed this unattached line that connects to the top of the reservoir...any clues as to where this should connect to or is it supposed to be free falling?

 

image.png

IMG_7630.HEIC

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Normal for a stock R180 that came with the car and a 4-spd. A 3:90 ratio with a 5-spd would run around 3000@80mph if you happen to drive over the posted speed limit that is.

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That loose hose looks to be just the end of what was likely connected to another hose that goes to the overflow outlet on the driver's side of the tank. Get it reconnected before driving the car again.

Edited by gnosez

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been looking for the other side but cant find anything that would attach based on the length of the line....it smells like gas and I traced it back to the reservoir.   It from the the top left of the reservoir if you were looking at it from inside the car.  Let me check again but there was nothing else . 

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10 hours ago, captainkim@yahoo.com said:

The plastic tank on the rear passenger side.  It’s from the top left plug 

Yeah, that's the vapor tank. Look at the original vapor tank plumbing and see what has been changed. That should make it clearer where that line came from. Fuel vapor is much more dangerous than liquid fuel and it's heavier than air. So it can collect in low areas and be set off by an ignition source.

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oh boy....now you have me worried.....I saw one open line that connects to a  pipe that goes towards the engine,.   I t was just a line that was attached but cut short.   The other line from the vapor tank was no where near that line so i bought a 2 ft line and connected... hoping that was the missing line....that was the only other line that was not connected to anything?   

 

 

IMG_7636.HEIC

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That tube should make it's way to the engine compartment and connect to your "flow guide valve".

It's a predecessor to the carbon canister and is intended to store fuel vapors inside the engine crankcase while the engine isn't running.

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If I remember right, there are four hard lines in the tunnel:

fuel supply

fuel return

rear brakes

vapor line

You will need to trace them to figure out which of the hard lines is for the vapor

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