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Cody's Goon


Patcon

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So here is the rear inner hatch seal.

20201031_112621.jpg

This is thee flange area on the top three sides of the car

20201031_112632.jpg

I believe this is the proper orientation on the top three sides

20201031_112657.jpg

So this is one way to do the lower section of the seal

20201031_112724.jpg

But i really think it aught to be like this but this will make it harder to install because the seal wants to stand up

20201031_112735.jpg

 

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On 11/1/2020 at 5:49 PM, Mark Maras said:

 I think the third pic is correct.

I agree. The seal is accomplished with the lip.  The hollow bulb section just provides some compliance and its compression help to force the lip against the hatch shut surfaces.  The orientation in the 3rd pic will also be consistent with that used along the side and top strips. 

It'll be hard to get clamping force on the flattened-out section while the glue is setting.  I wonder if it would make sense to trim off the outer leg of the '90' section along this run so that the glue doesn't have to resist the rubber trying to regain its molded shape.  

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3 hours ago, Namerow said:

I agree. The seal is accomplished with the lip.  The hollow bulb section just provides some compliance and its compression help to force the lip against the hatch shut surfaces.  The orientation in the 3rd pic will also be consistent with that used along the side and top strips. 

It'll be hard to get clamping force on the flattened-out section while the glue is setting.  I wonder if it would make sense to trim off the outer leg of the '90' section along this run so that the glue doesn't have to resist the rubber trying to regain its molded shape.  

I  considered trimming it too. There is a chrome finishing strip that covers the edge. I will take a shot at using the full lip with some steel plate for weights.  I will trim it if I have too but I'd hate to mess it up. Most of these seals came out of Australia

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As a possible measure, consider making a shallow slice (say, 25% depth) along the inside length of the 90.  That would preserve the integrity and appearance of the outer, visible surface and  retain the broad gluing surface, while weakening the 90 enough to make the flap more inclined to lie flat.  It won't be an easy cut to make, though.  Maybe use a steel straight-edge clamped in place, along with one of those roller-type fabric cutters (mine has an adjustable depth limiter).

Edited by Namerow
made better
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  • 4 weeks later...

i have a question.

I have been working on the hatch weatherstripping for the Goon. It is pretty much done now but I am not impressed with the bond,

If I wanted I could peel the whole thing right back off! The adhesive sticks to the paint pretty good but not to the rubber seal.

We have been using the black 3m weatherstrip adhesive and the 3m fast drying adhesive. Both seem to do it. Part way through I wipe the weather strip down with solvent to see if that would help but I couldn't tell that it changed.

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1 hour ago, Patcon said:

i have a question.

I have been working on the hatch weatherstripping for the Goon. It is pretty much done now but I am not impressed with the bond,

If I wanted I could peel the whole thing right back off! The adhesive sticks to the paint pretty good but not to the rubber seal.

We have been using the black 3m weatherstrip adhesive and the 3m fast drying adhesive. Both seem to do it. Part way through I wipe the weather strip down with solvent to see if that would help but I couldn't tell that it changed.

Try cleaning the silicone off of the weatherstripping using isopropyl alcohol. Silicone is used as a release agent when making rubber products, and adhesives won't stick to it.

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2 hours ago, siteunseen said:

I'm about to put a new hatch seal on my 240 so I'm curious. Are you saying wipe the seal's channel down with isopropyl alcohol beforehand then apply the adhesive? Thanks 

I would clean everywhere the adhesive will be applied. The weatherstrip side and the car side. On the car side a solvent designed to soften and remove the old adhesive would be the best, and shouldn't be harmful to the paint. A plastic scraper comes in handy here too, as it shouldn't damage the paint.

 

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