Jump to content
grannyknot

Thinking about installing an BMW M6 engine in my Z

Recommended Posts

I had the custom driveshaft I had made for the S38/G280 trans modified to fit the S54/G420, needed to be a little shorter with a new joint, that's all mounted so on to the ECU, my favorite:confused:

And my new Silvermine brake kits arrived, hopefully these will give me the braking I'm looking for.  The front calipers are massive yet weigh nothing, very impressed with the kit so far, the parking brake calipers are very cool and the replacement cable is nicely made. All five boxes comes in at 97lbs so take a 1 lb off for cardboard boxes and packing, when I get all of the other Toyota and Maxima calipers/rotors off I'll weigh those too and post it here.  The aluminum adapters I think I will powered coat before they go on otherwise they look like crap by next year.

 

IMG_0402.JPG

IMG_0404.JPG

IMG_0444.JPG

IMG_0445.JPG

IMG_0446.JPG

IMG_0447.JPG

IMG_0448.JPG

IMG_0450.JPG

IMG_0451.JPG

Edited by grannyknot
  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That is a big caliper or you have really little hands!

?

  • Haha 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The old Toyota and Maxima brake set I replaced was 92 lbs total so the new Wilwoods are 5lbs more,  I will be finished installing the new brakes tomorrow so will go into the kit a bit more then.

The stock elbow on the airbox exits right into the shock tower so I had to come up with a way to feed the air in, I'm not sure this going to work yet but I'll carry on with it until I get the engine running. Right on the end of the tear drop will be the aluminum tube that will head out in front of the radiator but it's still changing daily at this point.

And just got the ECU back from Kassel Performance, they deleted the extra programing that I don't need for the engine swap, flashed a new tune onto it and made up this plug n play harness for me. I'm sure I could have struggled through it and made one up myself but I learned my lesson on the last engine and so I will just pay someone else to do that stuff for me now.

IMG_0493.JPGIMG_0506.JPGIMG_0513.JPGIMG_0521.JPGIMG_0520.JPG

 

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Things are moving along, the Silvermine brake kit is in, it certainly isn't a "couple of hour" job as stated on the site.  That's because most of the fitment problems have been figured out but not all of them, it took me the better part of 2 days to install.   First the bad, there is no written instructions, some random photos that aren't very specific of the steps required and a video where every time the instructor runs into a problem that part is edited out.

If the adapter plates were stamped left/right, inward/outward that would have save me many hours but the worst problem occurs when you are on your back under the car fitting the new parking brake cable into place.  The stock collar on the car that holds the cable in place has a ID of .475",  the matching insert on the new cable is .500" so with the Diff and Diff mount in the way you have to try and get a large chisel or screw driver up there try and open that collar up enough for the cable insert to slide in. ? That's a problem that is so simple to remedy while the cable is being made.  And one more, the two 90 degree elbow fittings for the flex hose runs the hose too close to the tire that it rubs so I had to buy two 45 degree elbows from Wilwood finish the install.

This could be a great kit if those few problems were sorted before it went out the door, but Wilwood puts out an awesome product, I can't wait to see how this kit effects the stopping distance.

I'm still fooling around with the fresh air intake and trying to make it work, I have sent it off to Ben to finish off the welds and make them pretty and the new radiator and Spal fan arrived so it is starting to look like an engine bay again.

IMG_0480.JPG

 

 

IMG_0524.JPG

IMG_0525.JPG

IMG_0527.JPG

IMG_0531.JPG

IMG_0594.JPG

IMG_0595.JPG

IMG_0596.JPG

IMG_0599.JPG

IMG_0602.JPG

IMG_0603.JPG

IMG_0604.JPG

IMG_0606.JPG

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
10 hours ago, wheee! said:

Awesome fabrication skills Chris!

Thanks Mark,  I was going to put on a much larger air duct on it but decided I would go with stock 3.5" MAF to start with and that would get me on the road quickly, if I want more power after that I can always go with the CSL setup at a later time.  I used the thinnest aluminum I could hoping to get some of the induction sound to come through, we'll see.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Impressive work Chris ! 
A friend down the street owns a repair shop and had two of those motors sitting on stands . I keep drooling at those ITB’s and thinking .....

Edited by madkaw

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Looks great.  Not happy to hear about the Silvermine kit - I was just looking at it a few nights back ...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
30 minutes ago, madkaw said:

Impressive work Chris ! 
A friend down the street owns a repair shop and had two of those motors sitting on stands . I keep drooling at those ITB’s and thinking .....

Thanks,  have you ever heard one of these engines that has been tweaked a bit? It's a glorious sound, sounds like a day at the track.

28 minutes ago, ConVerTT said:

Looks great.  Not happy to hear about the Silvermine kit - I was just looking at it a few nights back ...

Well, his prices are better than TTT and Arizona Z car for a comparable package and I'm not saying it's a bad kit it just drives me crazy that I spent $3500 cnd and I still have to work the bugs out.  So order a couple of 45 degree elbows from Wilwood for the front calipers and take a file to the parking brake inserts before you climb under the car.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I ended up needing 3 separate water temp sensors, one for the ECU in the stock position, one for the Speedhut water temp gauge and another one for the electric radiator fan controller.  So I had to get creative finding a spot for them,  made the plugs for the sensors with some 80 grit paper, crude but it works and won't be visible anyway.

I got the air box funnel back from Ben, some day when I grow up I want to weld just like him.?  Worked out the location for the oil cooler and try as I might I could not have the drive by wire throttle removed from the ECU.  If I had gone with a stand alone system I could have used a steel cable, so I'm stuck with it.  Everyone says it has a very good feel to it, I hope so.

IMG_0585.JPGIMG_0587.JPGIMG_0589.JPGIMG_0613.JPGIMG_0618.JPGIMG_0648.JPGIMG_0625.JPGIMG_0649.JPGIMG_0651.JPG

 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I got the car back down on the ground after 4 months!

Over the yrs I have built various DIY wheel alignment jigs for Toe, bumpsteer and camber measurements, some were better than

others but none of them were very accurate, so I found this kit, https://www.amazon.com/Tenhulzen-3300-2-Wheel-Alignment-System/dp/B00PKI0YSU

For the home mechanic it's quite good and easy to use, the written instructions are adequate but the videos are precise and nice and short.  After using it a couple of times it becomes second nature.

Now Z's can only be adjusted for toe but with so many after market suspension setups available now this is a good way to set up your own car or daily drivers.  I pushed my lower control arms out for more camber and added caster adjustments to the TC rods.

IMG_0690.JPGIMG_0686.JPGIMG_0685.JPGIMG_0687.JPGIMG_0689.JPG

 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Should be an easy item to ship over to me...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
7 minutes ago, wheee! said:

Should be an easy item to ship over to me... emoji38.png


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

We'll talk for sure.

It just occurred to me that I did all of the alignment with the car missing the front fenders, sugar scoops, hood, bumper and spoiler.   I'll run through them all again when she's fully assembled, I guess the numbers may change but the differences between them should be the same?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Shouldn’t make that much difference. I have been using the string method for years and have been surprisingly accurate when I get it onto an alignment rack.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I pressure tested the fuel system this morning and everything appeared dry and tight but then the fuel regulator started a very slow drip coming through the copper solder? So the new one has to come from Germany, that will take at least 2 weeks so in the mean time I'll get the fenders and hood back on.

The engine bay is pretty much done, this the cleanest it will ever be.

 

 

IMG_0697.JPG

IMG_0698.JPG

IMG_0699.JPG

IMG_0700.JPG

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well the fuel pressure regulator might as well be coming from the moon, it is being held hostage in a USPS warehouse in Niagara Falls while my border pick up service sorts out their Covid staffing so I did a temporary soldering job on the old one and seems to be holding for now.

Yesterday I got that installed, jumped in and turned the key and bloody thing started up!  Could not believe it, there is always 4-5 issues to be sorted out first, I sent a big Thank You to Kassel Performance for doing such a nice reprograming job on the ECU.

At least it is idling well, haven't  taken it out for a run yet as I buggard one of the oil cooler lines up and have to make another one before starting it again.  On the video of the second start up there is a high pitched whining tied to the revs that I'm not sure about, I'll have to post the vid to the E46 M3 forums and ask the guys if that sound is normal for an S54 engine. Then I can start doing some testing on the VVT vanos system to make sure I have the proper pressure.

 

 

 

IMG_0701.JPG

IMG_0702.JPG

Edited by grannyknot
  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I just stumbled upon this thread.  Two of my favorite cars: Z's and M's.  Good work.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 hours ago, grannyknot said:

https://youtu.be/NuPlLEZ4KWw

I'm trying to embed the video but haven't figured it out yet, I'll keep on it.

 

 

 

 

It seems to be a new bug @Mike 

I found that if you save (submit reply) the post then go back in using EDIT, it will auto format when the link is re-pasted.

but I notice that your video is set to private so it may need a parameter change.

Edited by 240260280
  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I fixed the oil cooler line then started the engine so to get it hot enough to trigger the electric fan, just before the fan turned on a coolant line I hadn't tighten fully blew off so back to cleaning the floor again.  Now that is repaired  I was going to take the car out for a spin, I jump in and it won't go in to gear, it seems the Datsun clutch MC is just a bit shy of enough displacement for the BMW slave cylinder.  I'm pretty sure somewhere on the shelves is a 7/8" clutch MC from back in the days when I had a TR6 but that's tomorrow.

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.