Body & Paint
Discussions about bodywork and painting a Zcar.
3,643 topics in this forum
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- 25 replies
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Well these are the two areas that im working on. Is there anything I can use to get down in the little crevices. I understand that these two areas must be perfect before you lay down the body caulking to prevent the rust from coming back. I feel lucky now that I’ve seen pictures of cars with much worse rust in the rear hatch. I just hate body work!
Last reply by biddljj, -
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On an original car, are the roof-to-door jamb and A-post spotwelds visible when viewed from the door openings? Thanks, Fixitman
Last reply by Arne, -
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Earlier I posted about the findings from removing all the undercoating and finding this "area" that will need patching. I took the car by the shop who did a little clean up of the site and checked to make sure their was solid metal to mate to....there is. Am I wrong with assuming that if the floors and rail kit from Zedd were purchased and installed and this area patched that the car would be corrected in this area? The reason I ask is the car is for sale on Ebay and I stated in the ad that it needs new floors, and show the picture of where a patch will be needed. I do not want to mislead any potential buyer, so that being said if you received the car in this conditio…
Last reply by Oiluj, -
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You all probably know of Shin Yoshikawa from his impecable cut-away drawings of the Z car to name but one. Shin is also a prolific writer. We have discussed his superb book about the Toyota 2000GT, however Shin writes regularly for Nostalgic Hero magazine and was a contributing factor behind the Del Prado die-cast model racing series. Shin lives in California and operates an automotive workshop and fabrication studio. Check out Shin at http://studiotimecapsule.com/home Some time ago, Shin and his associates built an aluminum body for a Toyota 2000GT. That was a body-on-frame design and now Shin plans to build six aluminum uni-body chassis of the S30. I talked with h…
Last reply by apossiblehybrid, -
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While finding my door rattle I figure its time to replace the upper door front weather strip. So I pulled off the old one and to my horror and shook I found the first piece of rust on my car! Imagine my surprise! I really did think I was immune. :laugh: I removed the surface rust with a dremel and plan to shoot it with self etching primer tonight when I get home, then top coat it. It is only about 1 inch square where the sash meets the door, under the small front part of the seal. How long should I wait until I use the black 3m adhesive to glue down the new riubber? Thanks. .
Last reply by rtaylor, -
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http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://gallery.voodoo-people.com/albums/dag32/02_G.jpg&imgrefurl=http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php%3Ft%3D106731&usg=__tEDKhm7pRrj9TIH4DI8p_m8vhPk=&h=600&w=800&sz=154&hl=en&start=195&um=1&tbnid=Bdh9hoQxvBNBfM:&tbnh=107&tbnw=143&prev=/images%3Fq%3Ddatsun%2B240z%2Borange%26ndsp%3D18%26hl%3Den%26rls%3Dcom.microsoft:en-us:IE-SearchBox%26rlz%3D1I7GFRE_en%26sa%3DN%26start%3D180%26um%3D1 Be sure to watch the bottom video's. These are the most industrious guys I've seen in a long time. From engine rebuild to paint. I haven't watched all of them yet but there is a lot of information pac…
Last reply by hls30.com, -
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I found some filler as I stripped the doors on my car this past weekend. It looks like the guy had a dent on each door about 5 inches up from the bottom. The body shop drilled and pulled then filled. This is unacceptable to me. There were also numerous door dings that were filled. I found some full skins that I am considering purchasing. Was wondering if anyone has experience removing and replacing these and if they could give some insight. Looks like the tops are spot welded and the other 3 sides look like the just slide into place. Maybe they have a tack here and there but I couldn't tell. Any help would be great. John
Last reply by JohnnyO, -
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I found out why you never keep scrapping all the goop off your car.....because you might find this. I always new the floors were replaced by the PO, well actually the PO just welded in new floors over the old rusty one's and then undercoated the heck out of the underside. This spot however I hadn't seen till the goop was off. I went to sell the car back in May but the floors scared too many away, I planned on getting all the undercoating off and then putting in Zedd's floors which is when I found this. Whats the bottom line on this repair, how worried would you be. You can tell it was repaired awhile ago and it wasn't done very well. Whats the best fix. Thanks for …
Last reply by Weasel73240Z, -
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After many years without a Z, I'm in the market for one. I was looking at a 280Z earlier this evening that seemed to be in good shape, a few rust spots here and there, but nothing too scary. However, I noticed when I was down under the car that the frame rails seem to have dents in them. I don't remember whether my old 240Z had this problem, but it seems unusual so I thought I would bring it up here. The body panels on this car (other than a couple rusty spots) seem really good. The gaps seem good, and I didn't see anything under the hood or under the rear to make me think there was any kind of Bondo nightmare going on. I did remember to take my magnet, and as far as t…
Last reply by conedodger, -
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I have posted some pictures previously but wanted to start a thread to keep everyone up to date. I know there are others going through the same thing so maybe we can all compare pictures. I will repost the first paint pictures and I just got some of the under body with the undercoating applied. I will post pictures when ever I get them. Carl
Last reply by Jeff G 78, -
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Does anyone know who can stamp my new ID plates? Thay are an 1/8 inch or 3mm in height. Trophy shops and jewerly stores will not touch them. I'm sure someone has had their plates stamped on a total restoration. Thanks Keith
Last reply by 260zCaliCar, -
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Quick story of the car: I bought the car in Brockton, Mass. from the friend of the second owner. The second owner bought the car in late 75 and then went to town on the car!! I have sheets on top of sheets from Bob Sharp racing products; bought and installed at Bob Sharps shop in CT. I believe the flares and front spook to be orginal BRE products. I have two booklets where the owner checked off all the parts he bought for the car. Konis, Mullholland springs, front/rear swap bars, poly bushings, BRE spook and flares and the list goes on. He had the car painted in '76 and then had it for sale in 1980 just due to lack of time. Sale price then was $7600!!! He didn't get it so…
Last reply by EVILC,
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