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Still waiting for the silicon rubber fuel lines, but in the meantime disconnected the fuel filter and took a container with new fuel, connected to the fuel rail. I made sure to purge the questionable fuel. Cranked the engine, coughed and sputtered and the engine actually started. It was running extremely rough, couldn't even tell if it was all cylinders. Once I cleaned up some spilled fuel on the ground, I'll try again. The fuel level is set to 10 turns (10mm) below the bridge. I then set the nuts on the nozzles to 2.5 turns out from the bridge. I should pull the plugs just to see what they look like, hasn't been running in probably 5-10 years. As the engine ran, I could even hear the electric fuel pump running, thus fuel on the ground. I'm going to connect the fuel system back to kind of normal, where it will suck clean fuel from a gas can, as the tank is dirty. I also need to put some 20 weight or atf in the carbs, think I've used too heavy oil. I didn't have the engine running long enough to experiment with mixtures yet. I'll keep you posted, not out of the woods yet. Jim

Maybe Shaun Ryan used AI to write the story. Maybe he's a bot. AI slop. " By Shaun Ryan " @Carl Beck From his web site - 1975 - Sold to Kenneth E. Logan D.D.S. - L.A., Calif.. Driven for a couple years then stored away. 1998 - Sold to Michael W. Pretzer. Michael decides to continue his education and sells to Carl Beck. 1999 - Purchased by Carl Beck - who will restore it to original "BRE Racing Trim" 2007 - Restoration to "As Raced" condition completed

All the information is here, Carl Beck's car that he has just sold I believe. https://www.zhome.com/Racing/BahaBREZ.htm

I have been planning to put triple Webers on both of my cars since 2019 and have been searching and sometimes posting in this sub-forum for a while. I now expect to be putting the engines together over the winter. While folks talk about their various starting and running problems, jetting recommendations, and so forth, what I've noted is a general lack of pix showing the details of the various setups that must be out there. I've only seen one AFAIK in a post from 2023 (https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/68479-triple-webers-setup/#comments). Could those of you who actually have triple Webers take the time to produce both general and up-close pix of your linkages (OEM pedal to throttle bar or cable) and the various options for mounting (soft or hard mounts; studs or bolts, etc.) and linking (or not) the carbs and why you went the way you did? In conversation with Pierce Manifolds, I've learned that there is actually a "left-handed" cold start module, which would integrate with the existing S30 choke cable setup. The default cold start unit (right-handed) only works if it gets pulled from the front of the engine. So, did anyone ever install a pulley system to allow use of the R/H cold starts with the OEM choke cable setup?

Thanks for the replies! I tested the wire to the small spade connection on the solenoid, and it is getting power. Picked up a remote starter switch and when hooked up to small spade connection on the solenoid the starter turns over nicely. The black switch I mentioned, that is under the passenger side dash is no longer clicking but still doesn't work. Is there something else I am missing? After spending a lot of time trying to trace wires and unable to accomplish anything (with my limited electrical knowledge) I'm thinking of giving up and installing a starter relay as mentioned by cgsheen1. I couldn't find anything on the forum; can anyone provide a procedure for this?

Pretty happy with how this looks. Sprays on very nicely.

What an amazing build thread! I just spent a few days reading it. What a journey! How is your car running? Did you figure out the rich carb running condition?

BOT.... btw.. Matt have you finished your car?

Thanks for information!

Haha!! Not sure. Who would I ask for confirmation? ☺️

Odd story. Purchased and restored to street form by a dentist. " : in the garage of a dentist who had purchased it in ’73 and returned it to its somewhat original street-legal state. " The show is next Sunday in Florida. Ponte Vedra Auto ShowPonte Vedra Auto ShowThe Ponte Vedra Auto Show | Sunday, November 2nd 2025. Presented by O'Steen Automotive Group, Art 'n Motion, & St. Johns Chamber of Commerce.

https://www.pontevedrarecorder.com/stories/73-nissan-z-race-car-to-be-exhibited-at-ponte-vedra-auto-show,150339

With that air filter the way it is I wonder where the float bowl vents went? The one that's there should be connected to the hose from the valve cover.

@siteunseen Our “Forum Librarian Guru” Strikes again!!

I just ordered a pair from Z, I've used silicon rubber hoses before for other gas-related things, they would eventually get soft, but I'm told their's is made for gasoline. I'll do a visual again, looking for vacuum leaks can be difficult, if the engine was running one can use propane that gets sucked up from the leaks and you can hear it in the engine, but this guy won't start yet, oh forgot, need to use new fuel to be supplied directly to the fuel bowls. I'll keep you posted, hopefully getting close. Jim

I agree, that's what I used on all the vinyl and firewall pads. I don't know why I didn't use it on the weatherstrip......I was amazed after 50 years, it just peeled right up and didn't harm the vinyl in any way, still pliable.

I did clean it! First with alcohol, then the 2nd attempt I even roughed up the surface of the weatherstrip with sandpaper, then cleaned it. I even bought another small tube of the 3M super weatherstrip adhesive from Walmart and got the same results. The fact that the adhesive adhered to the paint so good, made me think that it was still good. The hatch weatherstrip I got from Australia had a totally different feel to it. The rubber was more "sticky". It required 100% talc powder to be applied to it after it was glued on, so the painted hatch surface would slide over it when you closed the hatch, until the seal bedded in.

ZTherapy uses silicone nozzle hoses.

Thanks for the link! The one I pictured appears to be the same as the one on the far right of the three pictured by 26th-z. It only has one "hose barb" connection. Thanks Again!

Thanks, Parman. I will be heading out to Menards to get the automotive Goop tube. I don't know what 3M was thinking designing a glue which is black. Clear one makes perfect sense.

I really like this stuff for all adhesive needs: 1 Gal. DAP Weldwood HHR Contact Cement You may have to clean some weatherstrip of its "mold release" before trying to glue it in. A little lacquer thinner on a rag and a few wipes on the surface to be glued is all that is needed. For door weather strips, I use an acid brush, start in the sharp corner at the top, back of the door. You can do it in sections about 18 inches long. Just apply adhesive to both surfaces, wait about 3 minutes, and then press and stick. It is going nowhere after that.

Did you clean the bonding surface of the weatherstrip samples with alcohol (or similar) before applying the adhesive?