All Activity

If it was mine I'd watch the play at the adjusting nut on the rod. Press the fork against the pressure plate fingers using one hand and run the nut in until you have contact with the fork with the other one. That would be zero play. Then back it off 1.5 turns. Easier to do the adjustment without the spring attached, since you'll be able to feel when you're on the pressure plate fingers. I've never done one but I think I understand what they're trying to accomplish. 2 mm of play between bearing and pressure plate when the slave clyinder is at the start of its stroke. Don't forget to check the pedal adjustment at the MC also. I've adjusted play there in the same way. Just max out the adjustment rod, being careful not to press the piston in to the MC bore, then back it off a bit. Another feel by finger job. And you don't need to remove the clevis you can turn the rod with a pair of pliers or a strong grip while everything is assembled.

I missed the part on returning 1.5 turns, I’ll check that in the morning. This might be a dumb question but with the transmission in the car are you able to see the release bearing from underneath or is it more of a tighten until there is no play in the release lever and then back off 1.5 turns?

Ready for my close-up Mr. de Mille…

Did you follow the instructions? Don't know why they show the measurement since most people will just tighten until play is gone and loosen 1.5 turns. Nobody's going to stick a feeler gauge in that hole. Don't forget to bleed.

$36,000

I have a 71 240z that I’ve recently got driving again. It was having some trouble going into gear so I changed out the clutch master and slave cylinder. Now the car has no problem shifting up but seems to not want to shift down easily and grinds when I try to put it in reverse. Any thoughts? I’ve attached a video that shows the slave cylinder actuating when the clutch is engaged. Do I need to adjust the slave cylinder to actuate farther? When the clutch is pressed engine goes into neutral fine. IMG_1808.mov

dzcg might be having seller's regret. 🤢 Everyone knows about ad blockers. They work. Good luck.

FWIW.. subscribing to a VPN like Surfshark or Nord, etc... eliminates at least 90% of the ads.

@Derek makes something similar. https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/119641-twin-cam-head-for-the-l6-from-derek-at-datsunworks/?do=findComment&comment=1249401

Thank you, Buddy.

He hasn't been around lately that I'm aware of but he may get an e-mail if I "tag" him @S30Driver Good luck!

A few dollars a month will eliminate the ads. Well worth it IMO.

There's one on FB marketplace in Indiana for $100 that looks to be in a little better shape in my opinion. It's out of a '77.

I'm pretty confident I can fill most the cracks... But one of the previous owners glued on a cover and there's a lot of rubber style glue everywhere

While this is newsworthy, it may not be available outside of Japan... or if it is, will have tariffs added to its already high $25000 dollar price (plus you need more parts to make it work). https://www.theautopian.com/nismos-old-school-hot-rodding-kit-for-its-straight-six-costs-more-than-some-whole-nissans/ https://www.nismo.co.jp/products/web_catalogue/engine_parts/dohc_conversion_kit_l-series_inline-six_engine.html https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7Es-4hnZH5Q&t https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CFKIAe952dc

oh yeah.. As i'm getting fludded with commercials and other sh*t, i'm thinking of leaving this shi tty site.. sorry but i'm verry tired of all that commercials s h i t !!

Years ago i discovered that the plug under the fueltank.. is also NOT Metric. So don't try to put a metric in there.. If you have a old tank save those plugs as they are rare.

Is this vent still around? THX

I mentioned that somebody plugged holes in the 240z balance tube. I was able to run a 1/8-27 pipe tap into the holes, there was enough metal there to get some good threads. I then sealed the holes with 1/8" brass pipe plugs (which I made) and a turn of teflon tape. What's interesting is that I took off a fitting from a 160z flat top balance tube, a barb to male taper fitting. The threads on my 27tpi pipe tap were exactly the same pitch as the fitting from the 260z balance tube. So perhaps Nissan used different thread standards? On to the next problem, vacuum leak. Jim

Too dark, black really. I looked again of my pix of the Franklin Mint manifold above and the true, not light distorted, color is at the extreme ends.

Quite the contrast in colors This is a later manifold testing colors….same material as motorman7 with tubes in place… looks much darker with contrast…

Hi Bob: If you are still looking for a welder I would recommend Elhot Metal Fabrication. He is working inhouse at the Shop club on 6th Ave S. He has done rust repair on 3 of my cars over the last 20 years and he is top notch. Of course with 30 years of experience, he's not cheap. Cheers, Mark G

You are correct, I always has a very good pedal feel and then I did not. I think part of the issue is a bad check valve, and here is why I say that. I ran the check valve test with a vacuum gage installed down stream of the check valve in between the check valve and the brake booster. Warmed up the engine Let the vacuum gage settle down to about 45 mmHg or so (I think that was the number) Shut off the car and watched. The needle proceeded to drop and drop and drop and drop down to zero after about a minute or so. If memory serves last time I did this test, it held. So I ordered a new one. I will have to see if this helps or not. Either way, I suppose it is time to change it out as I installed that one back in 2009 according to my Z maintenance book I keep.

Update. It's been several months when I posted questions about a soft feeling brake pedal in my 79 zx. I checked the vacuun check valve and found it to be defective. I didn't even use my vacuum test equipment but instead just removed it and blew and sucked through it and knew it wasn't holding vacuum. I replaced it and now have very good, stock brakes again.

Yes, take it a lock smith. If the core can be removed from the cylinder it isn't that difficult to make a key. Key blanks are common. I can't recall if the core is wafers or pins. Come to think of it, it's a double cut key, so it would be a wafer lock. To remove the core from the cylinder without a key, not a big deal to pick the lock. I have no idea what a lock smith would charge, but it's not a big deal. When I closed my business I kept all the key blanks, I probably have what you need. Jim