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That looks like it might be 1/8" thick material. Is it, or do my eyes deceive me? Is it really soft or does it have some compressive resistance? In any case, who's the supplier and, ideally, what's the part number?

I bought a kit from Harmon Brakes in Georgia. You need some specialize tools to get the booster disassembled and reassembled

Here are some pictures of my vents The foam I used The finished product

Hi all - I am re-doing the carpet in my '78 280z which entails sanding some rust, POR15 sealer, dynamat, etc. When I took off the carpet and sound deadener, I found these two holes that look like they're supposed to have body plugs, but don't. Any idea if these are supposed to stay open, or if there are plugs that are supposed to be in here, are they're available at a local parts store? These are in the passenger side footwell to the left of the fuse box. The one on the left is at the beginning of the transmission tunnel and the one on the right is through the firewall. NOTE: I've boxed both holes in blue with arrows pointing to them. The gray shown on the left side is just the lighting - that is a hole.

It is just a hole, normally has a rubber plug in it. I have used it to mount seat belt retractors with proper re-enforcement underneath where it exits through a frame box member.

Im planning on buying a kit to rebuild the brake booster in my 1972 240z. Any reliable kits and how difficult is the reman process?

I wonder if BaT will pursue their commission if it sold outside of the auction so soon after? Like in real estate, there can be a "commission protection period" if you sell your house after the listing agent contract has expired.

I think someone here posted the video a few weeks ago. It’s very cool.

I've just re-visited this 2020 post. In hindsight, I think this may be the definitive photo essay on the design and construction of S30's 'dogleg' structure. I wish they all looked like this but, as Inline6 notes, the structure is completely missing on far too many Z's (replaced by bodge and newspaper, topped with a Tabco panel). If your Z isn't sound in this area, don't count on your lower seat belt mounts (yours and your passenger's) if you're involved in a collision.

We need more, and better, pictures to answer your question. I have a couple of theories, but I'm going to wait until I see better photos.

If the hole is just next to the rear wheel well in front of where the "wall" goes up to the rear deck floor I think it's just a rubber plug. I believe the indent just below right of your finger is where a seat belt retractor would go.

Pull the camera out more to get a better shot. I can't tell where that is. I've got a '77 and a "72 so I could look at mine if I knew were to look.😁

Might help to identify where it is on the body. Probably recognizable to the guys that have torn their cars down but most have only seen carpet and interior fabrics.

I see Hagerty Insurance is featuring the 240z - along with another old Japanese sports car we won't mention - on its latest on-line ad. Also, it only ran for a couple of days (mind you I don't watch that much TV so I might have missed some) but Nissan had an ad featuring a full fleet of Z cars on a car-carrier semi, driving through the mountains. Front and centre, high above the tractor unit, was a yellow 240. At the back, the loading ramps were lowered while the rig was still in motion, just to let the latest model join the ride. Neat. I don't remember any car maker featuring a 50+ year old model in their ads. Cheers All Richard McDonel

Somebody bought it? Don't know who Mark is.

Nice of her to shoot your car, but I like your pics better…..absolutely beautiful car…I love silver on Z’s!

Hello all Does anyone know what would go in this hole? Goes through the whole car and out the bottom. One on the other side.

I'm being very deliberate in the naming of this part as ICF is what it's called in my 1972 FSM. This is the center part of the dashboard and holds the map light, central air vent, heater controls and radio. What I want to know is what type of screws are used to attach this to the dashboard. I know they are 4 mm threads and probably have a Phillips countersunk head, but are they chromed or are they black? In all honesty, my car's ICF will look nothing like its OEM counterpart as I've added a Vintage Air GEN II Mini HVAC system and a Retrosound Motor 4 radio. As I didn't have the heart to hack up my OEM unit (thinking someone doing a proper restoration might some day want it) I bought a reproduction, all black ICF from Motorsport Auto and did my modifications on it, which was to cut out the heater control section and fabricate a new escutchceon (that's what the FSM calls them) from a piece of textured black ABS plastic for the Vintage Air Streamline 4-knob controls. Here's a photo of the ICF all mocked up on my dashboard. I have yet to drill holes in the (also fabbed) radio escutcheon for attaching the lower part of the ICF. Hence the need to know something about the screws. IP mock up.pdf

Perhaps, Alan. I wasn't expecting to see the NISSAN OHC valve cover.

You might be skating on slightly thin ice if you reckon it would have had a 'Nissan 2000 OHC' valve cover when it left the factory.

I found it interesting that the company selling the Fairlady often presents very notable muscle cars, ie COPO GM products, early Z-28s, etc. that are truly outstanding examples. However, in the case in question their rep took a hit. Just one old geezers opinion.

Those who thought the Fairlady bid should have gone higher; there was SO much wrong with that car. The black underside was a deal breaker on it's own. It didn't even have a proper valve cover. Should have taken the bid and run.

Just a quick update: After returning from holidays, i spent some hours to finally sand down the remaining areas with old layers of paint, filler and primer: And finally: Done. Still needs a bit of love here and there, especially around the edges, but I'll leave that to the body shop. I Also made a little stress-test with my crack-repair and it seems pretty solid. So finally I got it installed back on the trunk at all original 6 mounting studs, like intended from the factory. It took me quite some hours to get that wing back into shape, but I think it was well worth it, and I'm more than happy i was able to save another OEM part which belongs to this car. Then I got some stuff in my mailbox: First. A spacer for the trunk / hatch damper, as mine are all toast. And more importantly at the moment: A bunch of fastener / retaining clips for the front fender side markers: Which allowed me to finally also test-fit the other side. Note protective foil on the lamp is just there to not damage it during trial fitments: And then I got a nice book from Autoliv in Sweden. They were the manufacturer of many of the aftermarket seat belts installed by European Import companies (along Britax). I asked them for a bit of Background information about the company and the specific seatbelts. They were not really able to help me with the 240Z seatbelts, since they're now a global company, but instead they sent me this very cool Company history book, which they released last year for internal use only, with some very cool information. I will prepare a post about those specific seat belts in the coming months. As for now, I wait for a few parts and information here and there, to proceed with the next steps on the car, but that should be possible in the next few days. I'll keep you updated.

I took the car to Caffeine and Octane on 9/7. While there, one of the attendees offered to take some pics of my recently restored 1971 Datsun 240Z. Looks to me like she used some kind of lens filter. Nice of her to send them along to me.

I was just passing on a comment from the listing. Don't know who LookCloser is, but apparently he did. I think the rubber was just old and aged though, and the backward washers had little to do with the cracking. Many commenters were expecting over $100k, but those small details are often signs of bigger problems. Surprised it wasn't caught by the seller or the owner.