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Do you have power to anything when the key is in ACC or ON? Have you checked for voltage at the black/yellow wire for the starter solenoid when someone is holding the key in START? Start there and tell us what you find.

Has anybody worked on the wiring to "fix" a problem? Those "fixes" frequently involve finding some wire with voltage and tapping into that. The turn signals are powered through the ignition relay. If the key is not in ON, the ignition relay won't complete the circuit for the turn signals, As @Zed Head suggested, the next thing to look at would be the hazard lights. Normally if you pull the hazard switch that would kill the power to the turn signals. If the blinker is still going with the hazard switch disconnected, that would indicate some creative wiring has been done to the car. You can also pull the turn signal fuse to see if that kills the problem. If not, pull the hazard light fuse. The turn signal fuse is in blue, and the hazard light fuse is in red below. If neither fuse fixes the problem, that still points to creative wiring. More questions: How long have you owned the car? Have you experienced any other electrical glitches? Look under the dash on both sides and around the kick panels. Do any wires look like they have been spliced, cut, or otherwise altered? If so, look for wire colors (with stripes). Do you see any electrical tape that looks newer than the wiring harness?

There are two seven different versions. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Blade_Runner

A 71 is up on BaT. Oddly, it ended up in Florida with an Illinois title, after having "spent time in Texas, Arkansas, and Oklahoma before it was acquired by the seller", Bring a Trailer1971 Datsun 240ZBid for the chance to own a 1971 Datsun 240Z at auction with Bring a Trailer, the home of the best vintage and classic cars online. Lot #200,055.

Or a '77 Turbo Carrera (930) is also a beautiful car.

As part of the 4th of July celebrations I am offering a sensible discount to any of the reproductions I make- make a sensible offer A link to my ebay store https://www.ebay.co.uk/usr/katodfa

http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/07/7B1C3893-E7E1-4082-978E-03E86971037F-1024x1024.jpg From all of us at Z Car Garage we hope you have a wonderful 4th of July weekend! Long Live The Z Shown above in Red, White and Blue are our clients: CJ’s 1971 Datsun 240Z Mike’s 1970 Datsun 240Z Rob J’s 1971 Datsun 240Z http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/bee20d36-c3b0-4195-88bf-ab197222412e-1-914x1024.jpg View the full article

Wow…..What a shame…..a real nightmare to a company trying to “get its legs”.

I will justy disconnect the horns, so I can drive a bit. The horn fuse is also for the brake lamps, so It has to stay in, and I will just pull the wires off the horns.

280ZX Brake MC is ready to go! I tore this apart several years ago thinking it would be a short project, but the rebuild kit I had turned out to be for the one made by Tokico (large perforated disc residual valves) and this one is made by Nabco (small rubber duckbill residual valves, see below). I had messed around with trying to rejuvenate the reservoirs. I had read you could cover it in a solution of oxy clean and hydrogen peroxide gel under UV light for 24 hours and it would take the yellow out. It lightened it up, but they’re still clearly yellow. Super clean, though. I also did some chemistry on some of the hardware. The bleeders and reducers for this thing are not common sizes (the reducers are m16x1.0 to m10x1.0) and after two weeks of searching for replacements I gave up and decided to try chemically coating them. I didn’t want to do the hardcore hot bluing or zinc methods because of the chemicals, so I used the rust bluing method. Basically, you soak them in white vinegar to strip off the rust, zinc, and anything else on them. Then you paint them with a paracetic acid / salt solution (8 parts hydrogen peroxide:1 part white vinegar + as much salt as it will dissolve). Dry it with a heat gun and throw it into a double boiler. You’ll see the rust turn black, which is when it turns into iron oxide. Buff it with steel wool and repeat until satisfied, then soak for 24 hours in motor oil. They came out okay. I was hoping they would look more like the pistons, but this is what they look like after four rounds of the process, so it’s going to have to be good enough. Fingers crossed that they don’t just immediately corrode. You could also do the phosphoric acid version (cold bluing), but this makes a harder coating of iron oxide. Then I just had to hone the cylinder, flush it with 91% alcohol, wipe it out, and reassemble. I kept the Tokico 240Z reservoir caps since I didn’t wire the car for ZX caps (PN: 46020-U6701) with the fluid level sensors and don’t have the metal (PN: 46020-K2401) or plastic (PN: 46020-N6000) Nabco caps. Maybe later if I can find a set for less than €53.40. It looks pretty good after test fitting it. I’m waiting for a dust cover and O-ring in the mail, then I can install it and bleed the brakes.

So, on the All Activity page, you can click on anything and it will take you to the end. So, this would be the page to start from when not signed in. But...the page lists all posts instead of all Topics. so there's really no need to click through since they're all right there in the list. Oh well. https://www.classiczcars.com/discover/

Will do, thanks for the photos. it is a very nice looking oil pan.

Not so much trained but he does what he wants and gets what he wants I guess by just paying attention. He's the reason I get out of bed, his name is Rolex. I know what he wants and he knows what I'm about to do and runs and hides under the bed. Hates baths and toenail trims, cleaning his big ears are a weekly fight too. But I can't imagine my life without a good dog. So yeah I guess he is trained but I didn't do it, he did.

Knowledge of 240Z wiring.

They all are, my friend. They all are. ☺️

Another way is to go through the tachometer opening if your hands are small enough.

Never mind. I erased my internet history and the problem went away. Didn't know that "cookies" could do that. I think I had clicked on something by accident. Back to original programming...

I am located in Austin TX

We have some AI on here already, "why won't my car run as I think it should" 10 years going on 20.

The door latches I used Tail light chrome pieces. They weren't very flat. So I heated them slightly to reshape them. I did cause some wrinkling in the finish on the one that was pretty warped. I probably should have sent them back and exchanged them but for now it's fine Bought some washer to hold the trims on Installed Some butyl to hold the lens in The center post of the chrome is supposed to be long enough to go all the way through the back and get another star washer. The posts on my repops aren't long enough for that. So hopefully the lens don't fall out Felts for the bottom lens drains Shop dog More Belmetric Lights in place Finishers Badges, because everyone knows badges make cars run better!! ;)

Yeah, I like that Turbo 930

My '77 has that wide B like you're talking about and I got one out of a '79 2+2 that I put in my '72 and am really happy with it. Never use 5th around here but it's a game changer on the interstate roads.

I could sure use a 3d print file for the vertical base part of the mirror

I thought that was the name of the Farmers union?

Nice and clean very pretty i just wet myself....