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Found 10 results

  1. Well after forty years of ownership I'm finally starting a second go around at restoring my 1970 240Z. I purchased the car well used in 1978 with 90,000 plus miles from the local Datsun Dealership in Chilliwack, BC Canada. Here is a picture from July '78: Here is what it looks like today. Looks reasonable but the paint is showing its age and there are some other issues lurking that need to be fixed properly. Full disclosure will come later. Restoration number one was done in 1982 and I only did what I could afford at the time. I actually think this fi
  2. I noticed today that MSA has begin to offer refurbished differential hanger brackets on an exchange basis. In their write-up on these new parts, they discuss applications in relation to solving the differential 'clunk' problem and emphasize that Series 1 owners will need to install the Series 2 differential hanger parts and moustache bar in order to be able to use the Series 2 front insulator (I believe that this is because the arrestor strap won't fit otherwise). This made me curious, so I started to look around some of the commonly-used parts vendors' websites to see if anyone was offeri
  3. I'm in the process of a major tune-up on my early '71. What is the consensus about the keeping or removing the pollution control system, in particular those items connected to the carburetor/fuel system. My primary goal is to maintain as much collection value as possible, since it #8225 made in 8/70. I don't live in a tough registration state, but could this modification keep the car from being registered in any states? (Not concerned about Alaska and Hawaii.) If the suggestion is to remove components, can you point me to some good instructions or videos? -Dann
  4. Guest

    [SOLD] WTB Stock Series 1 240Z

    I am looking for a stock survivor/restoration series 1 240Z with matching #'s, preferably grade 4 or 5, to add to my collection of Datsuns/Nissans that ranges from a 67.5 2000 Roadster to modern NISMOs. It's a missing piece in the garage. Documentation is a must and I am willing to pay for quality. I am not looking for a project car, rather one that presents as it should for grade and drives just as well. I live in Florida, but have a network of enthusiast friends/collectors across the country who can inspect/test drive on my behalf and can travel for the right car. I know it is difficult to
  5. So there was a discussion recently here. About non-defrost glass as being fitted to early 240z's delivered in the US (maybe 1969 dated cars?) but interestingly Nissan gave all HS30's delivered to Australia no defrost options (or it was an option but I've not seen any 240z's in Australia with this glass) up until the 1974 260z which didn't get the sexy vertical defrost glass, instead they got the horizontal lined glass. Anyway this was tough to photograph in the dark of a garage but this is the glass out of HS30 00150 a 1970 delivered HS30. As you can see it has the stamp M-214.
  6. Hello, I have a 1971 Series 1 240Z which has a few issues which needed to be rectified to pass inspection here. One of which was the reverse lights not working, which I thought would be a simple fix. -I haven't checked the reverse switch itself yet, because there is a continuity issue with the red/black wiring ( I jumped the red to red black cables at the switch but nothing) - I have power at the red wire to the switch. Here is where things are confusing me. I have continuity from the red/black wire at the switch to the red/black wire at the three prong connector (shared wi
  7. I will be trailering my car up to Austin for the Z convention. I will be bringing several parts with me for those that are interested. Series 1 hatch in good condition with horizontal glass, vents, interior panel cover ( black) and hinges Left Series early 70 door with window, locks/handle mechanisms, exterior door handle, hinges and stainless trim Right Series early 70 door with window, locks/handle mechanisms, exterior door handle, hinges and stainless trim e31 take off head in good condition with intake manifold, cam, lifters, valves, springs, ( no valve cover)
  8. Hello All, First off i am new to my Z, and new to the forum. Im sure my problem has been discussed previously but i am having some very odd symptoms! I bought my car maybe 2 months ago. After sitting 30 years in dry storage the whole brake system was shot. I purchased all new pads and shoes and retainers and rebuilt the calipers and the wheel cylinders, along with new flex lines. I also bought the correct master cylinder for my car, it being built in 12/1970. My problem is that even after bleeding the entire system, i cannot get pressure to the front calipers. The bleeder on the master to th
  9. Hello All, I love z cars but I acquired this 1970 240z manufactured in 2/70 lowest production month for the z. it has been repainted once original color paint code is 907 british racing green. it's got the rear window defogger that goes vertical instead of horizontal the correct emblems. there is rust it has been sitting in back field for 15 years. prod. # is like 1611 or close to it. has the speedo that starts at twenty etc. my question is this is it desireable enough because of manufacturing date etc to sell to someione that want to restore it or and i hate to say this am i better parting it
  10. Hey all, Here is my 1971 240z it is a series 1 with a build date of November 1970 has the vented rear hatch, emblems, ash tray, etc that go along with a series one. This was the first Z car that I purchased and I learnt a lot from the minor things I did on it. Unfortunately it did not turn out to be the dream car I hoped it would be, sadly all too often the story for many a new Z owner. After suspicions from looking over and working on the car I had it checked out by a local Z shop some of you might know Z Car Garage, San Jose, CA. It turns out there is a twist in the chassis from what appears
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