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Found 19 results

  1. I posted the other day about sputtering at high speeds (100mph) and received some great suggestions. Thanks There seems to be an issue I just discovered, bubbling in the fuel line, I guess it is air. I orginally thought this to be vapor lock as I am in AZ and it is very hot. However the other day I took the car out and it began running poorly in seconds, well before vapor lock should have occured. I have included a photo it seems there may be air in the line and it is causing bubbles and I guess that is causing an inconsistant fuel flow. I am guessing I have a hole in a line or some loose con
  2. New SU carburetors made in the U.K. specifically for Z's! The set comes with street-able needles installed. Easy to set up and tune! Check out our store! www.roundtopsfuelsystems.com
  3. Hi everyone Here is my situation i bought a 72 240z That was sitting for many years i dropped and cleaned the fuel tank cleaned out the fuel lines put a new electric fuel pump new filters put 5 gals of 92 octan its now getting clean fuel to the carbs i purchased and installed carb rebuild kit i put new plugs and wires and it is getting spark i fired it up after a oil change and prepped the motor i had to play with the carbs for like a hour to start it had to use quick start to prim it and she ran great for 45 mins or so shut it off now she will not start anymore any ideas or things
  4. Here is the issue. I have a 260z that has headers and many of the original pollution control items have been removed. The carbs have been rebuilt by Z therapy - I have tuned them according to the video. The car is not running rich to the best of my knowledge. There is no air pump, with headers there is no exhaust gas tube, therefore no exhaust gases through the balance tube, the control valve is not hooked up. No water through the balance tube. The carbon canister purge valve has a crack in the lid, but otherwise seems to be intact. The car runs fine but after a strong acceleration
  5. Hi guys. Wondering if there's any way someone here could help me out with finding a part I'm looking for. I'm currently converting my '73 240z to early SU carbs, and I need to find the long J hook linkage that comes off of the firewall bracket to the rest of the carb assembly. Linkage piece I need is shown in the photos I attached below. Does anyone have one of these or know where I can find one? ZTherapy told me to check around on the forums, and I'm not sure where to find one locally. Thanks in advance for your help! Courtney
  6. Fully disassembled, inspected, and rebuilt to factory specifications set of early Datsun 240z 4-screw Hitachi SU Carburetors, E88 intake manifold, balance tube, heat shield, springs, linkage, linkage to the firewall and air filter housing with OEM Nissan air cleaner/filter. As an option, you may choose the customer K&N filter setup instead of the OEM orange filter setup, or have both for an additional $50. Domes and pistons are polished and bodies have been painted with high-temp Eastwood fuel-resistant paint and baked to cure. Also included is a Vacuum gauge installed on the balance tube
  7. Hey y'all. Sorry, I don't know much about forum ettiquette as this is the first one I've joined.The guy said that everything under the hood was perfect, but after driving it for a week, I'm seeing that the carb intakes are leaking gas and the gaskets leading into the engine are wet with gas as well. I'm kind of a novice (at the Forum thing as well as owning a datsun/working on my car) so any pointers would be appreciated! I really want to do the car justice! - Josh Info: Original Engine - 90k miles Idle - 1500, sometimes dips down to lower 1000s Anything else that's relevant?
  8. I pulled these off my 240z parts car and I am looking to rebuild them and put them on my 280z with a stroker motor. Any tips or concerns I should have and where to find a rebuild kit in general.I know they are in pretty rough shape but they are definitely rebuildable.
  9. We have been working on rebuilding a 1973 240z which we recently purchased and came across another puzzle that I was hoping someone else had experience with. We recently got the car running and took it for a test drive. After driving about five miles we stopped for anoint half an hour and then took off again. Almost immediately the car would buck and shudder any time we tried to accelerate. For a short time it would idle but then shudder and die under acceleration. We ended up towing it home. My initial thought was that the fuel filter was bad. We added some gas to the tank (just in case) and
  10. Hi folks, I am a new Z owner (1972), and looking forward to refreshing/restoring this beautiful car. She currently runs OK, but could be better. I am, by no means, a great mechanic, but it appears that there are plenty of helpful folks in this forum. One of the previous owners of this car installed a CR PRO/FUEL adjustable pressure regulator downstream of the fuel pump, prior to the carbs. It is set on 4.5 (I assume this means 4.5 psi). I am not sure of the need for this fuel pressure regulator. I have read many complimentary comments on Z-Therapy's work in refurbishing the dual SUs, so I
  11. I'm a new owner of a '71 240Z; I've posted on here a couple of times. While the car was in the process of restoration by the previous owner there were periods of long sitting and I am getting everything up to snuff. To help others help me here's what I've done so far: - Rebuilt transmission with new gaskets, bearings, synchronizer rings, and oil seals. Temporarily refilled with synthetic 75W-90 GL-5 (ouch; I know now), now has Red Line MT90. - Replaced clutch friction disc, pressure plate, throwout bearing, and slave cylinder - Replaced distributor cap, rotor, O-ring, breaker points, condenser
  12. My duel SU round top 3 screw runs crappy and is backfiring through the exhaust when you pull your foot off the pedal(deceleration) what does this mean, does it mean it is running rich? Any help would be appreciated. It is also running rough and seems to want to stall. I just adjusted the carbs and float.I set the floats at 9/16 they do not suck full at that point but begin when the float starts to drop, I used the FSM for the carb sync. any ideas ZDUDE1967
  13. I have a 260z with 3 screw dome carbs. It begins to sputter and hestate at speeds approaching 100 mph. It seems fine up until the 100 mark then it is as if it becomes fuel starved. Any idea what this could be. Thanks Glenn
  14. I have a 260z with 3 screw carbs. It is running so rich that the fresh oil on a fresh rebuild is dirty and fuel smelling with only 2.5 hours of driveway idle time on it. Carbon fouled plugs, toxic exhaust. You get the picture. I spoke to Bruce the other day and was given some great hints. In any case I took the pistons out today to check the needle jet height and found that no matter which way you turn the mixture screw located under the carbs -all the way in either direction it seems my jet does not move. I have included some photos. I guess I am trying to understand what part of the jet is s
  15. My car smokes a blue fuel smelling exhaust. I am thinking of buying the z therapy rebuilt kit and trying my hand at doing it myself. Has anybody used this kit and what was your level of success.Is it easy to use and does it cover how to adjust the floats Thanks Glenn
  16. Hey so I don't know that much about cars so don't kill me if this Q is dumb. I was wondering what the benefits of switching out my SUs with triple weber carbs. What are advantages and disadvantages. any help would be great thx.
  17. After 2.5 weeks of waiting, my new carbs have arrived! I decided recently that I needed to kick start things with the Z and do something to get me excited about working on the Z again (although the sun coming out really helps lately), so I called up Ztherapy and ordered a new set of carbs and a new balance tube. Next week is dead week and finals the week after that, so it's likely that I won't be swapping anything till spring break. Until then I'll just have to enjoy looking at these beauties.
  18. The DCOM series of weber carbs were the replacement carbs for the Weber DCOE production. The Italian Weber DCOE production lines ceased in the middle of the 1980's and these carbs were the next evolution.Weber didn't forsee though that the electronic fuel injection systems would replace carburetors. The DCOM has improved performance over the DCOE carbs and more lasting on/off use due to the perfected acceleration pump diaphragm and adjustable pump lever. DCOM carbs will bolt on any standard side draft weber 40 DCOE carburettor manifold and uses the same inner parts, namely jets,needles, seat
  19. I am putting on headers and will need to remove the exhaust and carburetor manifold for the new gasket. I want to make the process as simple and successful as possible and want to be able to just bolt the carb manifold back on, start the car and go. Is there any special process for handling the carb manifold, such as storing with the carbs facing upright or any other thing I should know to make carb and manifold removal and re-install successful. Will I need to re-adjust the carbs after the go back on? G
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