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Found 5 results

  1. Saw this and thought it might work for dual SUs, what do you guys think?
  2. Carbs and manifold removed from strong running 240Z and stored with all openings taped shut, in plastic, inside garage in dry climate. No problems when removed from car that was totaled. Make me an offer.
  3. Fully disassembled, inspected, and rebuilt to factory specifications set of early Datsun 240z 4-screw Hitachi SU Carburetors, E88 intake manifold, balance tube, heat shield, springs, linkage, linkage to the firewall and air filter housing with OEM Nissan air cleaner/filter. As an option, you may choose the customer K&N filter setup instead of the OEM orange filter setup, or have both for an additional $50. Domes and pistons are polished and bodies have been painted with high-temp Eastwood fuel-resistant paint and baked to cure. Also included is a Vacuum gauge installed on the balance tube to help diagnose engine problems and tune the carburetors This is a perfect kit for the 260z and 280z owners who want to upgrade to the reliable and high performance round-top carbs. Ready to bolt on and begin using! Professional installation is recommended as fine tuning may be required depending on the condition of your engine, gasoline used, and other variables not related to the carburetors. As with anything that is 43+ years old, these are not perfect but are great performers. This set is being sold as-is for $750, shipped anywhere in the USA. PayPal friendly and ready to ship within 1 business day of payment. More Pictures @ http://jarvas240z.blogspot.com/2015/10/240z-round-top-carburetor-kit-for-sale.html .
  4. Hello all from Australia, Long time browser, first time poster here because I finally can't find the information I'm looking for! First off, my name's Adam and I have a 1973 240z which is currently running a standard L28, N42 head/block combo, with brand new triple 45mm OER carburetors, and Trust headers to a twin 2" exhaust system. I have just installed a new set of OER carbs I purchased from Japan and am having difficulties sorting out the idle/low speed cruise setting. Bit of details into the setup, 45mm carbs 34mm venturis #190 air correctors (not yet tested to see if these are the best) #130 mains #60 idles #40 pump nozzle #1.8 needle valve 3.5psi fuel pressure from the mechanical fuel pump into Holley regulator 31mm fuel level using the OER level gauge. Idle screws are setup so that the first progression hole is just 100% covered looking through the brass cap/inspection hole. Carbs are balanced the best I can using a unisyn. I have a wide-band O2 sensor probe in the tail pipe. I am running 98 octane fuel. Timing is at 15 BTDC with no vacuum advance connected. Valve clearances have recently been adjusted. Now, onto the problem I am having.. Driving with the #60 idles installed, 1 full turn of the mixture screw turned out, slow acceleration and cruise is very rich, 10.5 and 11.5 AFRs respectively. I also have #50 idles on hand which I have installed to try and improve the current rich scenario and I cannot even get them to idle. With mixture screws out 1.5 full turns (recommended range is only 3/4 to 1 full turn), they cannot idle on their own, only when I blimp the throttle which I believe is activating the pump jets. With the #50s installed, AFRs are off the scale in the lean area. They can't idle let alone drive. My question is, is going down from a #60 to a #50 idle jet that big of a jump that the car can no longer idle on its own? Or is there something wrong with my idle screw setup? OER offer a #55, but I would like to double check with the experts out there first before spending that money. Any help would be appreciated. And please let me know if I am missing some information, I tried to be as detailed as possible. Thanks, Adam
  5. Guys, Rebuilding my 4-screw SU's today and one of my old nozzles was completely stuck. Could not get it to budge and ended up having to basically write the thing off. Attached is a picture of the mixture-control wheel/screw thing and the chamber that the nozzle is supposed to slide up and down in. Thankfully this whole component screws into the carb body itself so while this piece is a mess, the carb itself is fine. Does anybody have one of these pieces in an old carb that I can buy or does anyone know where I can get one? Not even sure what this component is actually called. attached picture is pretty crappy but hopefully you'll know what it is. Thanks in advance.
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