2ManyZs

I seem to remember an aftermarket "Limited Edition" that was not done by Nissan, but by a company here in the US. The Black Pearls were the only ones that were done by Nissan as far as I know, there is a good write up on www.zhome.com about them, but if you read it right, they only did it on the 2 seaters, not on the 2+2's. I'll look through some of my old books and see if I can find the one I'm thinking about.

Well, the same pic is on zhome.com if you want to see it.....

Ah, that's better.... Hmm, looks better topless....still got ugly door handles though:ermm: Put a body kit on it like a few at the Tokyo Auto show and that would be sweet. Bet the top takes up most of the room in the trunk that the suspension brace doesn't, unless they used a different one.

What's official? That's a pic of a Ferrari F-40. Err, it was anyways...

Hmm, maybe I can auction off kmack's phone number.... :devious:

Uh, sorry, but it's N-P-T for National Pipe Thread.......

I'd say the reason they moved the handbrake on the ralley cars is that the drivers used the E-brake as a driving tool more than others. They probably used it to lock the rear brakes for a fraction of a second to help rotate the rear of the car. Think of a 90 degree turn on dirt, they would either use it too bring the back end back in line with the front, or to induce oversteer which is the faster way to turn the car on dirt without inducing wheelspin that would hinder their exit speeds from the corner. Now, why did they put it on the drivers side? My guess is for not only ease of use, not easy to move around while in a tight 6 point harness, but also to make it possible for them to finesse the brakes. I am a bit surprised the ratcheting lock mechanism is still in place though, but thinking about it, with it closer to the driver, it would make it easier to release it if they somehow locked it by mistake. One of the worst things about having the handle on the right side of the tunnel in a LHD car is when you try to push on the lock and release the brake when it is pulled up very tight. You do have a bit of a time, trying to pull back on the handle when the brake shoes are tight against the drum, all the time trying to manipulate the lock on the top with your thumb.

Only thing I tend to disagree with is the rear diff choices. I'd stick with the R-180 rear if at all possible, just for the difference in weight. You should be able to find a 3.90 or 4.11 R-180 without too much trouble, there are a lot of racers out there selling them, and there are ways to get the R-180 with the gears you want out of a 720 4x4 Nissan truck, and a few of the 200SX's had them as well. The P-90 head doesn't have the bronze valve seats if that is what you meant instead of rings.. They should have the hardened steel seats in the P-79 and P-90 heads as they were used with unleaded.

Before you start taking it apart and replacing parts, the question I have is have you tried to lube the linkage? Not just the plastic ball ends, but the pivot on the firewall as well? Take the E-clip off, unhook you ball ends and lift it off the mount, and see if it is rusty under there, clean it up and lube the *%# out of it and put it back together and see how it works then....I had one that was stiff, lubed everything and then took the "bellcrank" or whatever you wish to call it off the mount on the firewall, and voila, it was rusted terribly. Guess at one time or another the washer line sprung a leak and soaked it with windshield washer fluid as I found "blue goo" under the pivot.....

From what I can gather, the 70-76 strikers and stoppers were the same, while the 77-78 were different... But, it seems like if you have 78 doors all you would need to do is change to the later strikers etc.. and they should work OK. Andy Russell has the door striker kits listed as up to 76, but unfortunately I don't see the parts listed in his 77-78 price list. You might want to call him(480-343-2962) or e-mail him at z@datsundude.com to see if he has them available..... His hardware kit is $69 for everything including the receivers, shims, strikers and mounting bolts up to 76, so if he can get the later ones, they are quite reasonable.

Godfather? I don't look a bit like Brando, I can still see my shoes... And don't even think of "daddy" or "grandpa" either Jaymes:devious:

Couple things on your list in the first post will work. Tranny, they are all the same, unless you are running a 5 speed, which will be illegal in a 240 in ITS. The 4 speeds are all interchangeable, but it is better to use the later B model than the early A model with the "monkey motion" shifter linkage. Does you 77 have an R-180 or R-200? Later 77-78's had both, so if it has an R-180 it will work. Radiators are different, but either can be made to work and shouldn't result in a protest as radiators are free in the rules IIRC. Rear brakes are the same, as are the fronts. Exhaust is the same, except in the case you have a N-47 with the round exhaust ports, but the rest of the exhaust is the same. Fuel pumps off a 280 will work on a 240, they were actually used on the 73 models, so only a wiring issue on an earlier model. Fuel tank might work, if you use the straps from the 280... but I would run a fuel cell instead for safety..... The fenders and hatches are the same. Hoods are the same except for the hood vents, they might be protestable under the IT rules. You should be able to use the suspension with no trouble if you are using coil-overs, the sway bars should work, the rear might be the only one as the 240's had two different sway bars, one that mounted in front and one behind the diff. Too bad you can't get away with the L-28 in the 240, it would help get the 240 back in competition with the RX-7's etc.....:devious:

I'm tending to agree with Daniel on this one. I think the problem may be in your calipers or possibly in your vacuum hoses to the master vac, or it could be the master vac itself. You do have a check valve in the vacuum line to the master vac that is operating correctly right? Having raced and boiled the fluid on more than one occassion, the pedal gets soft and goes to the floor, I've never had one get harder. The only time one got harder was when the check valve to the master vac failed and therefore the master vac was not operating at all. So the first thing I would do it to pull the calipers, check your pistons and pad hardware to see if they are seized and/or binding. Then do a vaccum check on the line to the master vac, and verify the check valve is operating. The next thing would be the master vac itself. When you boil the fluid due to overheating from whatever source, the air pockets formed from the vapor will displace the fluid in the lines. Air will compress easier than fluid, and you can compress a larger volume of air than fluid in the same space.The result is the pedal will travel further and easier with little or no braking being done, because it is compressing air instead of fluid.

Or a politician...

There was a couple that had been married for 20 years. Every time they made love the husband always insisted on shutting off the lights. Well, after 20 years the wife felt this was a bit ridiculous. She figured she would break him out of this crazy habit. So, one night, while they were in the middle of a wild, screaming, romantic session, she turned on the lights. She looked down... and saw her husband was holding a battery-operated pleasure device... yup, a vibrator! Soft, wonderful and larger than a "real one". She went completely ballistic. "You impotent bastard, " she screamed at him. "How could you be lying to me all of these years? You better be able to explain yourself." The husband looks her straight in the eye and says calmly: "I'll explain the toy..... you explain the kids".... :devious:

It's all in how long you have been a member, not how many posts you have.

You should be able to get all of the bulbs at any decent parts store (Napa, Auto Z, etc...). Just have to take the old one out and take it with you as they may have to cross reference it to another bulb.

You will have to find out what the original color was, and if the sticker is gone or illegible, the paint codes can be found on www.zhome.com Look near the bottom of the left column under restoring/refreshing and the interior/extior paint colors are all listed there. There were only 8 original colors in the US so it shouldn't be hard to figure out which one it was....

Got 15 issues if you include the Z Car and Classic Datsun issues they had printed before they went under.... Think I have them all, but there may be one missing that I couldn't get as a back issue when I subscribed in 95.

Its tolerable, but since we have this, now the question is do we need the random images? Or could the new block be reduced to 4 pics instead of 6 if it becomes too slow? I can live with it like this... makes me mad I didn't think of it first though....:stupid:

Looks pretty cool... but what's with the "inline" shifter eh? Dash layout looks pretty neat, kind of an "improved" Z dash in a way....

Hmm, guess I'll have to hang onto mine a little longer.....:devious:

Yup, I missed seeing the auction until it was almost over.:disappoin Sorry, but since I don't remember seeing any bids on any of the magazines, watch the seller as he may re-list them. He had starting bids at 9.99 an issue, which since they are out of print isn't too high. I subscribed to the magazine and it was a bit pricey for four issues a year, I think it was about 20 bucks a year IIRC. He list a few Z's but that is the first time I had seen him anything other than a car...... Put his car on your watch list and check his other auctions starting tomorrow, he may re-list the magazines in a day or two.....

Maybe Barney spun himself a cocoon and instead of turning into a butterfly he morphed into something as annoying as he was in his first life? :tapemouth Hope they are hermaphrodites so they don't annoy Falwell.......

If you want new door panels, Andy Russell has them for 250 a pair including new mounting clips and the rubber receptacles. Contact him at z@datsundude.com or 480-343-2962 I don't know about the colors he offers, so you'd be best to get in touch with him. I also saw a pair on Ebay yesterday under Datsun Z parts, you might want to check on them, as I can't remember if they were 240 or 280. But the way Ebay auctions go, the price might end up more than what you can get them from Andy...... If you want his price list, PM me with your home e-mail address and I can send you a copy.